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Post by chevybow64 on Aug 26, 2013 22:18:34 GMT
I used to be Memphis64....My divvy has gone divvy...I push the start button and oil light comes on. Update so far. I started bike by bridging the solenoid and I re-connected Reg/Rec with the checked melted burnt black and white connections and checked charge over battery and I get 14.7 volts and it charges but after bike running for about 7-8 mins the Reg/Rec gets hot hot hot that can't be right...can it and was that the problem that caused the oil light start button problem? I've also notice the indicators sometimes flash erratic then normal and the rev counter jumps up to 2000 and back to zero. I'm thinking Mmmm do I push it to scrap yard or no? |
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Post by rowlf on Aug 26, 2013 23:40:37 GMT
I used to be Memphis64....My divvy has gone divvy...I push the start button and oil light comes on. Update so far. I started bike by bridging the solenoid and I re-connected Reg/Rec with the checked melted burnt black and white connections and checked charge over battery and I get 14.7 volts and it charges but after bike running for about 7-8 mins the Reg/Rec gets hot hot hot that can't be right...can it and was that the problem that caused the oil light start button problem? I've also notice the indicators sometimes flash erratic then normal and the rev counter jumps up to 2000 and back to zero. I'm thinking Mmmm do I push it to scrap yard or no? I answered the regulator heat issue in your first thread It gets hot because the alternator is working hard to charge the battery. Never a good idea to use a crap battery, it makes the system work very hard. Lots of work (current) = lots of heat. Fit a decent battery, charge it first and everything will be OK ! 14.7 volts is perfect by the way. There is an oil test circuit  There might be an electrical fault causing the light to come on though. You do seem to have a few. Are you sure the kill switch is OK. The oil light would come on if that is "off" although a fault in the wire would cause a similar symptom. As a former electrical/electronic technician my advice is fix one thing at a time. You said that you were going to cut and change wires, bad idea!. Half the time you introduce another problem as the "new" part may be faulty, so you end up with two faults, or a different fault. Find out each fault, one at a time and fix it, Simples! The bike starts, runs, the alternator is charging, the regulator is regulating. It must be good mechanically! Everything else is going to be a minor electrical fault like a loose wire. Or at least minor to fix, may take a while to find it. Read my last post in your first thread. |
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Post by chevybow64 on Aug 27, 2013 0:24:15 GMT
Thank you that's great advice will get cracking and hopefully sort probs thanks again....Andy
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Post by chevybow64 on Sept 11, 2013 20:15:16 GMT
Thank you everyone who tried to help....For anyone else with this problem...I bought another right control and chopped the wires and beared all the wires and then plugged it in to loom and introduced one wire at a time and pushed the start button until oil light came on..Then I removed all wires one at a time pushing start button each time leaving me with the black and a blue/white wire which was incidently the wire that passed thru the solenoid to relay box..
I therefore introduced another blue/white wire via solenoid to relay box and hey presto the bike starts on the button...Thanks again people
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Post by chevybow64 on Sept 12, 2013 7:29:44 GMT
Ok I know this is a Divvy site but can anyone help with my GPZ600r problem please? It starts on the button and coughs like it wants to burst into life but doesn't. I've stripped carbs and just got a bottle feeding petrol into carb feed. Do I need to prime carbs if 'Yes' how do I do that? I guess it's just filling the bowls up? I bet all you have to do is open the bottom bolts/screws and let petrol thru right or wrong?
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Post by gsteinert on Sept 12, 2013 8:43:27 GMT
Priming the carbs is as simple as holding that bottle there for a few seconds. The float bowls will fill and you'll be set.
If you're getting a cough, it sounds to me like at least some fuel is getting through and combusting in at least one cylinder. I would suggest checking the spark plugs and HT leads to start with. If two or three have gone, I think you'd end up with the symptoms you describe.
I also had similar problems when I had water in the bottom of my fuel tank. Easy enough to check, take a sample in a clear bottle from the bottom of your fuel tank (make sure the tap is on prime or reserve to get it from the very bottom) and leave it to settle. You can see the water separate and sink to the bottom within a few minutes.
If you have got water in your tank you'll probably have water in the carbs too. There will be a drain screw for each carb, drain them completely and fill with fresh fuel from your bottle. If that's the only problem it should start up after that.
Failing that, what's the history of the problem? Has the bike been sitting a while or has it happened suddenly?
Gary
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