Post by lin on Jul 15, 2013 20:47:03 GMT
Hi all,
Having trawled through the tech data on the site I've noted a few things that I should keep an eye out for when viewing a prospective purchase, if I've missed anything, would you be so good as add it to my list with a brief explanation if you feel its necessary.
My grateful thanks to all those who have contributed items on the various Tech Boards that have allowed me to compile this list.
Regards. Lin.
Items Noted:
Alternators: Check the brushes for wear/damage if this starts giving problems.
Brakes: Calipers need annual servicing to stay in good condition. Interchangeable with 'R' model blue spots apparently??? Use 'brake grease' during rebuilds, avoid 'Wemoto' seals as they have been known to be of unreliable sizes in the past, best use OEM.
Brakes: Pads - Sintered pads improve braking, but may increase disc wear and/or induce warp.
Brakes: Lines - Replace with braided hoses for better braking.
Center Stands: Get bent or corrode and twist, indicated by the bike leaning to one side.
Dash clocks pack up at about 15K. Fix available if you catch it in time........
Exhausts: Down pipe/collector box is an area of corrosion to check and keep an eye on.
Exhaust Collector Box Seals: Expensive and cheaper made DIY from graphite cord.
Exhaust System Complete : Rots, most may well have been replaced by Stainless by now.
Fairing brackets - Corrode for a pass time, a slight front ender will break the mounting point on the head stock which should be welded back on - disconnect all electrics, not just the battery to do this with either an Arc or Mig (probably just as sensible to do this with a Tig as well).
Rear indicators can droop...............
Paint: The candy cote models, green, red, maroon etc. very hard to match well, if at all! The other metallic versions (and non-metalics); blue, black, red etc. Should be repairable reasonably well, if the relevant shade is still available and you can find some one able to spray it........
Performance: Reasonable riding should return very 40's to 50's - poorly tuned bike will show crap MPG.
Side Panels: Difficult if not impossible to remove with a Givi Wing Rack fitted, Givi item best removed to avoid damage. OEM rack allows for 'careful' removal without dismantling.
Swing Arms: Corrode from the inside, bearings giving little or no hint of imminent failure.
Swing Arm Bearings - Source from a local Bearing Factor, quoting relevant part number/size.
Having trawled through the tech data on the site I've noted a few things that I should keep an eye out for when viewing a prospective purchase, if I've missed anything, would you be so good as add it to my list with a brief explanation if you feel its necessary.
My grateful thanks to all those who have contributed items on the various Tech Boards that have allowed me to compile this list.
Regards. Lin.
Items Noted:
Alternators: Check the brushes for wear/damage if this starts giving problems.
Brakes: Calipers need annual servicing to stay in good condition. Interchangeable with 'R' model blue spots apparently??? Use 'brake grease' during rebuilds, avoid 'Wemoto' seals as they have been known to be of unreliable sizes in the past, best use OEM.
Brakes: Pads - Sintered pads improve braking, but may increase disc wear and/or induce warp.
Brakes: Lines - Replace with braided hoses for better braking.
Center Stands: Get bent or corrode and twist, indicated by the bike leaning to one side.
Dash clocks pack up at about 15K. Fix available if you catch it in time........
Exhausts: Down pipe/collector box is an area of corrosion to check and keep an eye on.
Exhaust Collector Box Seals: Expensive and cheaper made DIY from graphite cord.
Exhaust System Complete : Rots, most may well have been replaced by Stainless by now.
Fairing brackets - Corrode for a pass time, a slight front ender will break the mounting point on the head stock which should be welded back on - disconnect all electrics, not just the battery to do this with either an Arc or Mig (probably just as sensible to do this with a Tig as well).
Rear indicators can droop...............
Paint: The candy cote models, green, red, maroon etc. very hard to match well, if at all! The other metallic versions (and non-metalics); blue, black, red etc. Should be repairable reasonably well, if the relevant shade is still available and you can find some one able to spray it........
Performance: Reasonable riding should return very 40's to 50's - poorly tuned bike will show crap MPG.
Side Panels: Difficult if not impossible to remove with a Givi Wing Rack fitted, Givi item best removed to avoid damage. OEM rack allows for 'careful' removal without dismantling.
Swing Arms: Corrode from the inside, bearings giving little or no hint of imminent failure.
Swing Arm Bearings - Source from a local Bearing Factor, quoting relevant part number/size.
but calliper will stick if not kept clean, not had blue spots on a 900 but have them on my fazer & they are good.
they are flexible
only if you don't check them.
