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Post by stukeith on Jun 19, 2013 11:15:47 GMT
SO I picked this up cpl months back. Its not pretty, but it only cost me £50 plus an old phone. its reasonable low mileage and had new plugs, bearings, filters and carbs cleaned balanced and new jets. I have found the following is needed. new pegs New levers Mirrors New fork seals New Silencer/down pipes New ignition New Indicator I need to repair the top fairing and mudguard and fix side fairings Bloke said he had 130 from it :lol: , he also told me it weighs 400kilios! 8O Took 3 of us to get it in the car, I forgot how heavy 4 cylinder engines are.
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Post by pilgrim on Jun 19, 2013 17:28:09 GMT
What you going to do with the watering can then? The white gunge problem is solved with garden hose!
Seriously, looks a lot of work so good luck. I'm sure it's worth it.
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Post by bobh on Jun 19, 2013 19:39:41 GMT
Well, you might get a few quid on eBay for the MX-style bars, to offset the cost of other bits you'll need!
Good luck.
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Post by stukeith on Jun 19, 2013 21:09:42 GMT
Yea not sure if I like them bars or not yet.
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Post by alan292 on Jun 20, 2013 8:35:34 GMT
The cost of replacement bits can soon pile up...I was shocked to find out how much spares were when I went looking...it paid to buy a full bike as a doner for the spares I needed ( shock, fairing ,side panel,headlight ect)...might be worth concidering ...good luck with the rebuild
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Post by teejayexc on Jun 20, 2013 8:56:34 GMT
The cost of replacement bits can soon pile up...I was shocked to find out how much spares were when I went looking...it paid to buy a full bike as a doner for the spares I needed ( shock, fairing ,side panel,headlight ect)...might be worth concidering ...good luck with the rebuild I hope this isn't a pre-cursor for hiking spare part prices
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Post by stukeith on Jun 20, 2013 9:22:38 GMT
I paid £30 for new header pipes £35 for new top fairing with a screen £20 for new front pegs £18 for new fuel tap and indicator lens £10 for two new levers. £12 for new seals and dust caps
Am going to remove chain and soak for a few days in oil and clean it up and the sprockets until I can get it through the mot and then buy more once I apply for the log book.
I think I need to straight the headlight mount though as when removing it from the car we dropped it onto the rear boot lip on the stay and now the handle bars hit the clocks on full right lock.
Just need to replace the seals and clean fuel system.
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Post by alan292 on Jun 21, 2013 8:29:49 GMT
The cost of replacement bits can soon pile up...I was shocked to find out how much spares were when I went looking...it paid to buy a full bike as a doner for the spares I needed ( shock, fairing ,side panel,headlight ect)...might be worth concidering ...good luck with the rebuild I hope this isn't a pre-cursor for hiking spare part prices No hiking of prices here ....the parts you are looking for werent the bits I needed for mine...whatever I get for them goes back into the pot for other items....everyones a winner eh..
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Post by stukeith on Jun 24, 2013 11:12:58 GMT
Well took my forks to a mates yesterday and he managed to undo the bolts in the bottom with his impact wrench! So now can change fork seals put new oil in there and get the bike moved now. ordered new ignition and will stick the bolts in the tank this week and get rid of as much of the rust as possible, and then wash the tank out with some petty and try get it running i spose.
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Post by teejayexc on Jun 24, 2013 11:32:42 GMT
Well took my forks to a mates yesterday and he managed to undo the bolts in the bottom with his impact wrench! So now can change fork seals put new oil in there and get the bike moved now. ordered new ignition and will stick the bolts in the tank this week and get rid of as much of the rust as possible, and then wash the tank out with some petty and try get it running i spose. Marbles will do the job better, and not risk pinholing the tank.
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Post by stukeith on Jun 24, 2013 13:52:32 GMT
Marbles will do the job better, and not risk pinholing the tank. Really? I would have thought that they are two round? The point of nuts and bolts where that the friction removes the surface rust from the tank?
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Post by ContourMac on Jun 24, 2013 13:55:01 GMT
Well took my forks to a mates yesterday and he managed to undo the bolts in the bottom with his impact wrench! So now can change fork seals put new oil in there and get the bike moved now. ordered new ignition and will stick the bolts in the tank this week and get rid of as much of the rust as possible, and then wash the tank out with some petty and try get it running i spose. Marbles will do the job better, and not risk pinholing the tank. Do you still have yours?
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Post by stukeith on Jun 27, 2013 21:20:29 GMT
Recieved the ignition today. battery dead or screwed, but turned over with car batt and jumps. will get everything back on the bike over then ext week as lost my job today and need money, so got get legal so can sale 2 of my bikes.
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Post by m40man on Jun 27, 2013 21:37:27 GMT
.... lost my job today ... Ouch - sorry to hear that .
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Post by stukeith on Jul 28, 2015 20:48:49 GMT
Well, the last few days I have managed Fitted engine New rear bolt fitted New carb rubbers Refitted starter motor New clamp screws Lubed clutch cable
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Post by stukeith on Aug 2, 2015 19:43:18 GMT
Well a lot has been done this weekend! I have managed to get the mechanics together, and go her fired up, here is a breif rundown. Well Friday all my pices I needed to get up and running had arrived. 1m of 7mm hose 1m of 6mm hose 1m of 4mm vacum hose Fuelcap Cable oiler. I wanted to get the fuel line in purple, like the vacumn hose, however they did not do fuel line version of it. So instead I have the cotton coated version of the fuel hose. I drilled and hammered the old lock from the fuel cap. Unfortunalty the other half lost all my keys to all of my bikes so I have to repalce them all. I removed all of the old fuel system the main pipes are ok, however I wanted to route them better and get the fuel filter somewhere more safe, and convienient. New fuel cap is all fitted and looking good! Started to put the carbs back on and plumb in the fuel system then noticed a small issue. This engine was off a newer bike, so it was missing the vacum pipe for the fuel pump, and also the oil pipe in the cover for the carb heaters. So off to the old engine to remove the number 2 inlet stub and swap over. Um nice and yukky, so a quick clean off later and all better. So I fit this to the engine and then spend the next 10minutes trying to get the carbs on. I give up. Turns out the stumps are slightly different shape, so the new number 2 was ever so slightly out of alingment with the rest of the carb outlets. Another 30mins later. I have all the old ones off from the engine, and swapped over. Carbs go straight back on! Next hour was spent measuring the hoses and working the best routing, I then hose clamped some of them, and the other that fitted nice already I put a couple of red cable ties on there to give colour burst. I sorted the breather hoses and bolted the airbox on and routed everything.
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Post by stukeith on Aug 2, 2015 19:50:01 GMT
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Post by m40man on Aug 2, 2015 21:30:38 GMT
This is coming along nicely now - always good to see a Divvy resurrected .
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Post by stukeith on Aug 3, 2015 8:38:47 GMT
yes, I just lost faith and motivation over the last year, I replaced some much like the coils, carbs and a host of other stuff. I have just ordered some new oil/filter, brake pads and a chain and sprocket. I have a feeling I may have to rebuild the rear brakes.
I was nervous the 1st time trying to start, It would not turn over. The starter just made a clicking noise. I kept pressing it and finally the starter turned over. so maybe a dodgy earth. I need to get a small wire brush and clean the contacts on the connectors.
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Post by cam7777 on Aug 3, 2015 12:19:00 GMT
You may wish to consider jubilee clips on the fuel lines, as cable ties may not be sufficient
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Post by stukeith on Aug 3, 2015 15:19:38 GMT
You may wish to consider jubilee clips on the fuel lines, as cable ties may not be sufficient I have on one, and the proper hose clips on most joints. The CT, are on the filter parts and I had to use a heat gun to warm the rubber to get them over the filter. So I hope they will be OK, didn't have any clips at all on most of the old pipes. We will see
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Post by cam7777 on Aug 3, 2015 20:44:30 GMT
If the pipes were that tight, you should be okay
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Post by stukeith on Aug 5, 2015 8:01:55 GMT
More shiny new stuff turned up yesterday. So I drained the old oil out ant refilled her. Turned her over between showing half full to pump the oil around, damn bike kept starting! Not bad with no fuel in tank, just the fuel left in the bowels. Was out last night so this was all I could do. Today hopefully will clean the studs and refit the exhaust, and then remove the back wheel and clean, lube and replace chain and sprocket.
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Post by DahDit on Aug 5, 2015 8:44:14 GMT
Good stuff.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Aug 5, 2015 14:22:40 GMT
You may wish to consider jubilee clips on the fuel lines, as cable ties may not be sufficient My in tank fuel filter on the Breva 1100 is fitted with cable ties, it was the only thing I could fit in the space, as I didn't have the proper clips, been ok, for the past 3 years!
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Post by stukeith on Aug 10, 2015 9:21:09 GMT
So Sunday I completed the following Snapped a disc bolt Drilled a disc bolt out Heli-coiled a disc bolt hole Cleaned and refitted the chain guard Cleaned and refitted the sprocket cover Cleaned pistons and fitted new pads Cleaned rear wheel, bearings, removed rust and re-greased. Fitted new chain and sprocket. Cleaned thread off chain adjusters and exhaust studs Re fitted the rear sets I've ordered a new clutch cable as very stiff, will more than likley replace the sprocket carrier bearing as well, just need to work out how to remove the old one. I also cleaned the spacers and lubed a lot of stuff. I have a feeling I may need to drop the engine again, as one exhaust studs is flattened. Just need to refit the exshaust, and torque all the bolts up, then MOT and then work on the cosmetics.
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