XJ600S Diversion Chain & Sprockets

[riffbiker]

Hi Bikers,

Firstly, a question: does anyone have experience of a Scottoiler V-System? Is it better than aerosol chain lube, does it make the chain last longer, does it cause much oil splatter to the rear wheel, tyre and pillion? Where did you fit the main reservoir on your Diversion? I appreciate your replies.

Now, for what it may be worth lest I can help you, I thought I'd share this.

I need to replace my chain & sprockets, I did it some years ago using Yamaha OEM (original) parts which have lasted 15,000 miles with reasonable maintenance (chain adjustment and aerosol chain spray lubrication). The last two winters my motorcycle has unfortunately been kept outdoors on a driveway under a bike cover and has suffered a little from the weather, hence the need for a chain replacement.

After reading through valued threads on this group and my own research, I have been 'agonising' as to which chain and sprockets to fit this time around.

First port of call my Yamaha dealer, to whom I gave the individual part numbers for the chain and two sprockets (I had noted these from previously): total quote was just shy of £200.00 - way too expensive.

So, I have contacted several aftermarket companies, distributors and motorcycle spares suppliers, mostly helpful, however contradictory information was provided. I'll share this with you.

Chains:
I understand that the Yamaha original chain is actually supplied by DID.

DID Chain: 520VX and 520VX2. I confirmed by telephoning DID's UK distributors that the VX is EOL (end of life) and has been replaced by the 'improved' VX2. Several dealers were offering me the older VX! Another dealer suggested the VX is no longer to be recommended but the VX2 is OK.

DID VX2 and VX2GB: GB stand for Gold and Black (not U.K.) and some suggest it is a 'superior' duty chain, yet DID's UK distributors informed me it was purely cosmetic with no strength advantage.

Most after market chains are supplied as an 'open' chain with a 'master link' included with which to close the loop. Some older chains have a 'spring clip' style master link which Yamaha (and common sense) indicates is a poor idea indeed as it lacks sufficient strength. This has largely been replaced by a master 'soft rivet' link, which needs a special tool to fit. This chain tool is costly and not cost effective for a one-off chain replacement.

The Yamaha original chain is supplied as a closed 'endless loop' chain with no master link fitted (although one is included if one does want to cut the chain and link it again, for this the chain tool is needed). To fit the endless loop chain, the swing arm has to be removed; this is not much of a drama and gives an opportunity to grease the swing arm bearings at the same time. Obviously therefore (and again by logic) the manufactured endless loop is a stronger chain than one closed with a master link.

Sprockets:
One motorcycle spares mail order company I telephoned specified the wrong sprockets for my Divvy - three times! Another warned me that the JT rear sprocket was chromium-plated, which I believe to be incorrect, however I was correctly 'warned' by another supplier that the rear sprocket from another manufacturer as supplied in a DID kit was black.

Some chain and sprocket kits, including those with DID chains, are supplied with other brands sprockets, JT, Techcorps and Power Rite. I believe there is a connection between JT and Techcorps, but that Power Rite may be of lower quality. I understand that AFAM use their own chain and sprockets. I ended up looking at JT and AFAM sprockets.

So far as I can gather, the OEM manufacturers (Yamaha) sprockets are considered the best, followed by AFAM then JT. Aside from cosmetics (colour and the shape of the weight reducing cut outs in the rear sprocket) the design of the front sprocket does seem significant. The 'cheaper' front sprockets may be stamped from a flat piece of metal whereas the dearer ones are contoured to be thicker towards the hub. This means the sprocket sits 'better' on the splines causing less wear to the shaft from the gearbox. I cannot at this time confirm this but do seem to recall from my previous replacement the Yamaha front sprocket to be contoured.

In short, it has all been a minefield and very time-consuming!

What do I personally want? Ideally a black endless loop chain (no master link) and two quality sprockets. Only one aftermarket supplier was able to offer an endless loop chain as a special order, being a DID 520VX2GB/110 gold with JT sprockets. I shall name the company as they were very helpful: BitzforBikes tel [phone]. Price was just over the £100 including postage. Pretty good - but I really don't fancy a gold sided chain and the JT sprockets (especially the front), whilst acceptable, may not be as good as AFAM or Yamaha.

Frustrated, I contacted my local Yamaha dealer again and this time was offered a Yamaha OEM (original) chain and sprocket SET under a different part number. Cost £134.99 - that is £60 less than buying the same parts separately! This is what I shall do!

So, for your information:
1998 XJ600S Diversion (04BR):
Yamaha Chain & Sprocket Set: # 4BPW001A1100 - £134.99
Chain (4BR): # 94581-30110
Front sprocket (16 teeth): # 4BR-17460-00
Rear sprocket (48 teeth): # 4BP-25448-20

For this one gets OEM quality sprockets and an endless loop chain (no chain tool needed) - the chain is probably made by DID anyway.

Hope this may be of interest to someone else and save hours of research for the sake of about £35.00.

All the very best, RB

[pilgrim]

I speak for many ex and still Divvy owners on here I think in saying if you want the best or the most original then go the Yamaha route. However the model is now between 10 & 20 years old. Most owners see it as a budget bike, easy to maintain (chain and sprockets included). It's not a performance bike by a long way but it is robust.

It needs correct maintenance only in my opinion and putting expensive parts on it will not reduce this requirement. After market kits can last as long as 'originals' if properly maintained.

So the choice is yours really.........

[teejayexc]

Some older chains have a 'spring clip' style master link which Yamaha (and common sense) indicates is a poor idea indeed as it lacks sufficient strength.

Mine had 'sufficient strength' to survive 1000+ miles of ragging it over four days just recently .

[bobh]

My experience of JT sprockets is that they are at least the equal of the OEM ones. Of course the front ones don't have the noise-reducing rubber rings, but I can live without that.

I'm a firm believer in changing the front sprocket, which is by far the cheapest element in the assembly, half-way through the life of the chain, i.e. as soon as there's any sign of hooking. Once it starts to go it's a vicious spiral. Doing this, the chain on my Thundercat ran to 28,000 miles, and still had plenty of life left in it, though I did change the complete set out of the kindness of my heart before passing it on to another august member of this forum. The chain was lubed with Wurth High Performance Dry Lube up until the sprocket change (at about 16,000 miles) and thereafter with copious amounts of cheap engine oil (from an oil can). On the whole, I think the engine oil did at least as good a job as the aerosol, though it does make an awful gungy mess under the front sprocket cover. Gear oil would be even better (it is, or was, DID's recommended lube), but is more expensive and smells of tom cats.

Similarly the chain on the FZ6 has now done over 20,000, with a front sprocket change at about 15,000, and there's negligible lift off the rear sprocket so it looks like it should go at least to 30,000. That's with the Wurth lube pretty much exclusively.

I don't believe in deep-cleaning chains, as there's a danger of damaging the seals, or at least forcing dirt into them, once you start to use a brush. One advantage of using lots of engine oil is that it self-cleans the chain by fling. No oil should get on the rear tyre, as the chain line is outside of that (exceptions being bikes with r.h. chains, such as BMW 650 singles, where the chain can drip onto the tyre when the bike's on its sidestand).

I don't think there's anything wrong with a post-rivetted link, so long as it's fitted correctly and lubed with the supplied grease. After all, when you think about it, the links are actually all rivetted, it's just that the rest of them are done in the factory. I'm sure some manufacturers use "soft links" even on high-performance bikes. Though I take your point that you can lube the swing-arm bearings at the same time if you fit an endless one, and on a D6 it's a fairly simple job because there's no rocker arm (assuming the lower shock pivot bolt isn't seized, of course).

I have no experience of Scottoilers, though I've fitted Lubeman oilers to a couple of bikes. If your bike doesn't have a centre stand, and you're using it for every-day commuting, it makes sense to fit an oiler. If it does have a stand, a couple of minutes with an oil can when you get home (or at lunchtime) will do as good a job, in my opinion. It's just a bit messy, and the fact is that whatever method you use to put it on, using oil rather than an aerosol will result in a few drips on the floor and oil running down the sidestand - the first time you notice this you'll think the engine's developed a leak.

My two-penn'orth, anyway.

[riffbiker]

Many thanks for your replies and thoughts, makes interesting reading.

pilgrim: Yes, I agree with everything you write. In my case my Diversion is in very nice condition for its age so I don't mind giving it some t.l.c. The main point of my thread is that overall the Yamaha OEM parts are not so much dearer than good quality after market ones and one knows exactly what one is getting.

teejayexc: Hmm - personally I wouldn't! Yamaha recommend against this kind of master link. In fact, my local Yamaha dealer only fit endless loop chains so as to avoid the master link altogether. Should your link break, especially when 'ragging it', you have a 60hp strimmer that can do serious damage to machine and rider. I would consider removing your spring clip master link and replacing it with a compatible soft rivet (if available from your chain's manufacturer) which is much stronger. Could save you in many ways in the long run - but just my opinion, of course.

bobh: Many thanks for sharing your wealth of experience on chain maintenance. My chain has developed several stiff links which are reluctant to free off - aside from mileage, I think this has been caused by not being able to garage my motorcycle for the last two years with all that implies (could not dry the bike off and spray it after a wet ride as frequently). I agree about the post riveted master links - especially your comment "so long as it's fitted correctly". I prefer to do my own engineering but cannot warrant the cost of a decent chain tool to use rarely, hence the endless chain route. Is a 'soft rivet' master link as strong as a 'normal' link? Obviously it is strong 'enough' (anyone in this group work for a chain manufacturer?). I would not have thought about chain oil running down the side stand...

All the best, RB

[CD]

Put the scot oiler in the fairing where you can see the oil level dropping and its easy to keep topped up. Run the single feed to the FRONT sprocket via a small hole drilled through the sprocket casing so it lies along side the sprocket. This is not suggested by the manufacturer, but the oil has time to run between the links before they load-up over the rear sprocket.

Advantages:
If the vacuum feed plays up you can see if its not lubing
If it rains you dont have to take the seat off to increase oil flow
If you turn it too far you can see its falling too much and back it off before the bike gets too messed up
No tubes etc clipped to the back swing arm.

[Deleted]

Hi All,

Reading this tread with interest, as I might be in the market for a new chain & sprocket set....... thats if the crankcase is still oil tight!



It happended last Sunday night, not had chance to remove the cover yet!

[teejayexc]

Ouch! has the chain broken or has the front sprocket loosened* /come off?


*Surprisingly, quite a common occurence. Either the tab washer hasn't been put on correctly/breaks off or the nut itself strips it's threads (they're a fine shallow thread and notorious for not holding very well) :-(

[Deleted]

The chain has broken, but not yet taken the cover of to investigate further. It happened last sunday evening and I'm away all week, so a job for the weekend!

[teejayexc]

Wow! tell us what you find.

Re the crankcase, don't think you'll have damaged that, there'd be oil all over if you had.

If the sprocket cover is damaged, doesn't appear to be in your pic, there's plenty on fleabay ; Covers.

As for the rear piece where the damage looks to be,you should be able to heat, reform and either get it welded by a competent ally welder or some form of metal cement ?

[Deleted]

Jun 13, 2013 13:11:07 GMT teejayexc said:

Wow! tell us what you find.

Re the crankcase, don't think you'll have damaged that, there'd be oil all over if you had.

If the sprocket cover is damaged, doesn't appear to be in your pic, there's plenty on fleabay ; Covers.

As for the rear piece where the damage looks to be,you should be able to heat, reform and either get it welded by a competent ally welder or some form of metal cement ?

Will do, soggybiker has just replied to my post in his thread, he had the same failure but lost bits of the casing, he used chemical metal and chicken wire.

I'll start a new thread over the weekend with news of how I get on.

Cheers