HGP
CBT failure
Posts: 23
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Post by HGP on Jan 5, 2013 16:51:32 GMT
Hi folks I went out this afternoon to remove wheels from my 900s to get tyres replaced and encountered problems removing rear wheel spindle. It looks like wheel spindle has seized on a wheel bearing it was very tight and only moved out about half an inch with a few heavy hits with a hammer. I can now hear the grinding of the wheel bearing as I turn the wheel. Is brute force my only option or can I try something else. Thanks in advance Gavin
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Post by jip on Jan 5, 2013 18:51:16 GMT
When i nod my head YOU hit it ready.......
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Post by CD on Jan 5, 2013 19:07:28 GMT
Beat the crap out of it with a suitable drift bar and lump hammer. Bash it one way and then the other. The drift avoids damage to the non drive end and less damage to the threads. The wheel bearings will be wrecked but they sound shot anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2013 20:51:31 GMT
OK, silly question time.
Please tell me that you didn't forget to undo the pinch bolt on the swingarm..
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HGP
CBT failure
Posts: 23
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Post by HGP on Jan 5, 2013 21:50:07 GMT
Pinch bolt first thing to be removed. I have had it off ( the wheel that is) twice before with no problems.
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HGP
CBT failure
Posts: 23
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Post by HGP on Jan 6, 2013 16:05:49 GMT
Sorted, ;D the spindle finally gave in to a few heavy taps with a club hammer. Looks like only damage is to the thread on the spindle nut new tires on sometime this week.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2013 15:36:13 GMT
My rear spindle was seized at the rear brake carrier, I just tightened up the pinch bolt, rocked the carrier and sprayed with WD40.
I had a new 160/60 17 so I decided to fit this instead of the stock 150/70 17. There is no clearance issues so I'll see how it handles when the weather improves.
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HGP
CBT failure
Posts: 23
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Post by HGP on Jan 13, 2013 18:18:59 GMT
On inspection mine looked like it had seized on the spacer inside the rear diff. all sorted now and wheels fitted with standard size avon storm tires last set handled well and did 8,500 miles.
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Post by CD on Jan 14, 2013 11:16:19 GMT
I had a 160-60 tyre on my 900. It handled fine, but the slightly lower gearing on an already under geared bike was a bit annoying.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 21:32:14 GMT
I had a 160-60 tyre on my 900. It handled fine, but the slightly lower gearing on an already under geared bike was a bit annoying. Fair comment, I haven't ridden it with the new tyre so it'll probably be a temporary solution until I save for some proper size tyres...January is a very long month
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Post by CD on Jan 16, 2013 9:26:58 GMT
I had a 160-60-17 Conti Road Attack with the usual size front. Their new handling transformed the bike. The only snag was the D9s ability to square its rear tyre. The RA went off in about 4000 miles and became quite nasty to turn onto the less worn shoulder. For me the short useful life and suddenly poor handling when worn was worse than the benefit when new. The front lasted about 8K and handled fine to the end.
I've found Conti Motion to be good enough on grip and not square off so overall more useful. Maxxis Supermax was also good as its got a gripper soft compound on the shoulders. Both available in 150-70-17.
Ive not been impressed with Bridgestones on the D9 but the ones on the GS are great.
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Post by eliminator on Feb 15, 2013 15:24:05 GMT
Michelin pilots seem OK on my 900 & my GS.
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Post by jip on Feb 15, 2013 18:04:18 GMT
I got conti motions on mine both fitted new last year and NO scary moments so far. Jip
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Post by teejayexc on Feb 24, 2013 17:10:18 GMT
Beat the crap out of it with a suitable drift bar and lump hammer. Bash it one way and then the other. The drift avoids damage to the non drive end and less damage to the threads. The wheel bearings will be wrecked but they sound shot anyway. Is this the preferred CD method? Do you have previous experience of rear axle bolt being stuck? Just asking
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Feb 24, 2013 17:29:54 GMT
Beat the crap out of it with a suitable drift bar and lump hammer. Bash it one way and then the other. The drift avoids damage to the non drive end and less damage to the threads. The wheel bearings will be wrecked but they sound shot anyway. Is this the preferred CD method? Do you have previous experience of rear axle bolt being stuck? Just asking At least Martins wheel is unlikely to fall of If CD gets em stuck like that Neil
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Post by teejayexc on Feb 24, 2013 17:36:03 GMT
At least Martins wheel is unlikely to fall of If CD gets em stuck like that Neil Oh I don't think there's much chance of it falling off
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Post by CD on Feb 27, 2013 11:44:52 GMT
The 900 axle spindle was fine. The bearings were ok too, but I wanted shiny black wheels so they had to come out.
The old MZ 250 had been overtightened, bearing spacer tube crushed and the lot had rusted solid. So before I bought a new wheel, it got the heavy hammer treatment. If the opposite side is supported with an even bigger hammer and (old) socket, a couple of heavy thumps are all it should need to get it moving. If its rusted like mine was, it has to be knocked back and forth to loosen the rust or it will simply jam solid and never be any good.
In the end my MZ spindle and wheel were fine cleaned up and I had a new bearing spacer tube made.
Thankfully the Kettle hadn't been so abused and came apart nicely for its stoved hub (oh yes!) and stainless spokes in the original rim. The front isnt so good so needs a new rim.
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Post by stormin on May 22, 2014 17:30:59 GMT
Ive got a puncture and have tried to remove rear wheel, seems to be stuck on splines on the drive shaft. Everything else came off easily. Any ideas on how to get it free from splines
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Post by CD on Jun 5, 2014 7:43:38 GMT
Take brake and spacer off. Put spindle back and give wheel a good shake until it moves. Spindle stops wheel crashing off. Same trick works for putting wheel back on.
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