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Post by spike240 on Mar 7, 2007 8:06:37 GMT
Aye-up all. Having bought a DVD set from Reaper, it has encouraged me to do my own servicing. I'm going to start with the valve clearances and carb balance. Teejay has kindly loaned me the special tool required, but after watching the dvd several times I can't quite see how Reaper depresses the valve to extract the shim, using the tool. Is it obvious once you offer the tool to the camshaft? I must stress that I haven't even started the job yet, but thought I would ask for advice here first.
Cheers
Spike
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Post by alpaholic on Mar 7, 2007 8:20:07 GMT
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Post by General Gman on Mar 7, 2007 8:40:46 GMT
Teejay kindly loaned you his 'special tool'....... ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) Remember, Teejay is a northern fellow, and they're as tight as a mouse's ear.there will be a reckoning at some point in the future. ;D Think I just earned yet another smiting from the god of the northern wastes... ![8-)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/cool.png)
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Post by spike240 on Mar 7, 2007 8:44:01 GMT
Thanks for that - it's just that I can't see how the valve spring is compressed whilst leaving enough room to remove the shim. I'm sure it'll be ok though. Thanks again for quick reply.
Spike
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Post by alpaholic on Mar 7, 2007 10:14:07 GMT
it's just that I can't see how the valve spring is compressed whilst leaving enough room to remove the shim.. The tool only pushes on the edge of the bucket so the shim is free to be lifted. (You remove the timing cover and turn the engine from the crank so the cam lobe is pointing away from the shim giving you space) The shim itself just lifts out. Sometimes you might need to coax it out with a small flat screw driver. A magnet might help a bit. Anyway, rest easy. It's obvious what you have to do once you get the valve cover off and it's a little bit fiddly but not actually difficult. Of course you might not need to change any. Ohhh, don't trust the shim table in the haynes - mine was wrong - work it out yourself if you need to change any and try to save yourself future effort by going to the outside of the tolerences so they've got room to narrow down a bit. (ie if you change one leave the gap as wide as possible because the gap will tend to narrow, not widen.) In short, don't worry, at every stage it is apparent what to do and my posts have unfortunately made the job seem more complex than it really is! [changed the word valve to shim in the last but one paragraph and to clarify para 1]
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Post by teejayexc on Mar 7, 2007 21:10:28 GMT
Think I just earned yet another smiting from the god of the northern wastes... Would hate to dissappoint oh Southern fellow ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) (smited at 21.11 hrs) ;D Trev
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Post by werner1 on Mar 7, 2007 23:23:57 GMT
Thanks for that - it's just that I can't see how the valve spring is compressed whilst leaving enough room to remove the shim. I'm sure it'll be ok though. Thanks again for quick reply. Spike As you see , the shim is the shiny round plate. The shim lies in his bucket (wich has a opening rightside here) You should be able to turn the bucket/shim so the opening is in front. The tool presses between camshaft and bucket. When there's enough clearance you can pop out the schim with a extra small screwdriver ![](http://images.fotopic.net/ymymr3.jpg)
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Post by suzukikidontheloose53 on Mar 7, 2007 23:31:59 GMT
Northern fellows tight,not at all, and here's a smite to prove it ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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