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Post by CD on Aug 9, 2012 13:33:14 GMT
A very fiddly job.
Tools:
all the usual stuff to open the engine plus magnetic pick up tool ideally with a 5mm business end.
Small long ended allen keys to furtle out the shims when they slip off the valve tops.
Set of feller gauges allowing 0.01 steps between 0.1 and 0.20 mm.
Valve lifting too or a flat bladed screwdriver 5 to 6mm wide at the tip.
Remove the tank and fairing
Remove the oil cooler use an open ended spanner on the hex bos and a ring on the banjo nut. Hold the spanners at a close angle to each other and squeeze so the cooler's hex boss is fully supported.
Remove the cam cover. Use a well fitting key as the fastener heads are easy to damage. My socket set hex keys were not sharp enough. Take care.
Remove left hand side crank cover.
Use a 14mm ring spanner to turn the crank and measure all valve clearances. Be really fussy as its easy to read the gaps wrong.
calculate the shims needed. They are supplied in 0.05mm steps so be careful.
I ordered three at 2.50mm but found that one valve was getting a 0.23 clearance (0.03 too high). Even after checks and rechecks it was wrong.
It IS possible to grind down a 2.58 shim to 2.55 on a diamond faced sharpening block. I would not try to do much more and would not use a normal stone (not really flat enough). take care. keep measuring and make sure it stays flat and even thickness.
Tips for removing shims:
Turn the valve lifter until the edge slot is visible.
Turn engine backwards until valve opens part way.
Put flat screwdriver sideways-on into the edge of the lifter. Dont trap the shim. Turn the engine back until valve traps the screwdriver.
Use a small screwdriver in the edge slot to lift the shim
Use small pliers or magnet to pull out the shim.
When shin drops under the cam turn the engine back and push the shim out with a suitable wire and magnet. VERY fiddly.
Use the magnet to slip the new shim into its seat.
Turn engine to fully open & close the valve
Check the clearance. If you are lucky its right first time. If not faff about until it is right.
When all are done and checked box up the engine and replace all the other gubbins.
If this all sounds like a serious faff of a job - it IS. Oh yes!
The special valve lifting hook shaped tool would be helpful but not strictly needed.
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Post by Ken on Aug 10, 2012 19:37:11 GMT
Hi CD Nice. This should help others to do the job. It’s pretty straightforward but it does get a bit awkward when the shims fall behind the valves. A magnet certainly helps. I bought one of these www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0017they are usually available on Ebay and I did find that it made the job easier. Clearance Intake (cold) 0.11mm-0.15mm or 0.13+-0.02 Exhaust (cold) 0.16mm-0.20mm or 0.18 +-0.02 I checked the clearances with metric feeler gauges and then double checked the clearances with imperial feeler gauges. Most metric feeler gauge sets have a 0.05mm as the smallest guage. imperial feeler gauges can sometimes give more accurate measurements. Ken |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Aug 11, 2012 9:11:38 GMT
I checked the clearances with metric feeler gauges and then double checked the clearances with imperial feeler gauges. Most metric feeler gauge sets have a 0.05mm as the smallest guage. imperial feeler gauges can sometimes give more accurate measurements. Ken Luddite alert!! luddite alert!! ludite alert!! ;D Neil |
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Post by CD on Aug 12, 2012 16:32:11 GMT
Not really Luddite. The imp & metric gauges are not equivalents so using both gives smaller graduations.
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Post by pneumatician on Aug 15, 2012 23:17:19 GMT
Did the shims on my 600 today. I think I can honestly say counting all of the bikes I have owned through all of the Jap bikes ( this is my first Yamaha), several BMW's and a few classic Brit bikes this takes the biscuit for being a time consuming fiddly faff. I used both the special tool (which slides off the bucket and will not go on No3 valves) and the as suggested screwdriver blade.
However, done now. Only thing left is perhaps the Clutch pin before we venture forth on holiday. Bike travels most miles on a trailer behind the camper.
Excellent forum, only had the Yam two weeks and its been a mine of info already.
Steve
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Post by CD on Aug 16, 2012 7:17:00 GMT
I have a magnet pickup tool that's at least 1/2" diameter. Something 1/4" dia would get in closer and be more useful for pulling out the shims. I found a small/medium flat blade screwdriver worked fine for holding the valve open.
Use the cam to open the valve, hold the screwdriver on the lifter and back off the cam just enough to free the shim. Flip the shim with a small screwdriver and use suitable magnet to pull it out. If the cam is too far around the shim drops underneath.
Putting new shims in can be easier if the valve isnt as far open. Then the cam stops the shim falling through but traps it. Dont turn the cam to make space, just use a LARGE screwdriver to push the shim into place until it clicks. Who knows how many times I did the job before I found that trick.
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Post by pneumatician on Aug 17, 2012 15:47:22 GMT
Certainly with you there YDC Spammer I suppose you live and learn.
But I had developed bothe the slide the shim in under slight pressure and the screwdriver by the time the job was done.
Next time (if ) I will make a special little tool before I start.
Steve
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Post by magwych on Sept 8, 2012 9:24:57 GMT
I would be inclined to whip the cams out once the measurements have been made, like kawasaki's it would be far easier and it doesn't take too long to do...
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Post by CD on Sept 10, 2012 19:56:35 GMT
I considered that but it would mean mean messing with the can chain and although I was very fussy with the gap measurements they were not all what I expected when the new shims were put in.
So cam removal wouldn't help much. The shims are really not too bad if the cam lobe isnt moved too far off the valve. Extract the shim then turn the cam down a little and press the shim into place.
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Post by crickleymal on May 3, 2013 9:28:57 GMT
How often do the clearances need to be checked? One of the reasons I sold my ZZR was the frequency and downright awkwardness of the job.
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 3, 2013 10:16:12 GMT
Hi CD Nice. This should help others to do the job. It’s pretty straightforward but it does get a bit awkward when the shims fall behind the valves. A magnet certainly helps. I bought one of these www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0017they are usually available on Ebay and I did find that it made the job easier. Clearance Intake (cold) 0.11mm-0.15mm or 0.13+-0.02 Exhaust (cold) 0.16mm-0.20mm or 0.18 +-0.02 I checked the clearances with metric feeler gauges and then double checked the clearances with imperial feeler gauges. Most metric feeler gauge sets have a 0.05mm as the smallest guage. imperial feeler gauges can sometimes give more accurate measurements. Ken but the metric is the correct clearance, the Japanese only work in metric! imperial is more likely a reasonable equivalent meant for the American market, but cannot by definition be more accurate! |
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Post by rowlf on May 3, 2013 11:46:44 GMT
Wot HRH said.
Stick to the metric !
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Post by max900 on May 3, 2013 15:36:22 GMT
How often do the clearances need to be checked? One of the reasons I sold my ZZR was the frequency and downright awkwardness of the job. Yamaha claim every 20K on the D9 dont know what it is on 6 i ASSume it would be the same, the last time mine were checked by a proper mechanic(i know he was a proper mechanic because he only had a rubber hammer :  was at the 20K mark then i checked them after fitting a new head gasket at the 37K mark haven't checked them since bike is now on 60K  |
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Post by rowlf on May 3, 2013 16:01:54 GMT
Yamaha claim every 20K on the D9 dont know what it is on 6 i ASSume it would be the same, ume wrong. 15,000 miles or 2 years. ;D |
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Post by crickleymal on May 3, 2013 19:09:07 GMT
Looks like that's the first job then. At least it's not as bad as the ZZR. That was something like 2 hours just to get to the valves. I'm planning on doing about 12-15k a year on it so I'd better get used to it.
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Post by CD on May 4, 2013 18:32:23 GMT
With UK fuels, the valve service limits must be to keep the mechanics busy. My 900 valves were not touched until 70,000. One exhaust was just below the minimum service limit all others were within limits. The main hassle (1) was finding shims that would improve the other valves without making them too wide or leaving them unacceptably close to the lower limit.
Hassle (2) was replacing the oil cooler because the banjo bosses had split.
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Post by crickleymal on May 5, 2013 9:05:42 GMT
I suppose I'd better check though. Just had the valve clearances adjusted on the car. The bloke in the garage didn't believe they would have closed up. I insisted he check them and they were so tight that they ate his feeler gauge when they turned the engine over ;D No wonder it wouldn't start properly.
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Post by trancer on May 15, 2013 12:20:25 GMT
Done my valve clearances the other day, i did a small video of what i did
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Post by CD on May 17, 2013 21:52:57 GMT
I suspect the standard service interval is because its not possible to get the best clearance on every valve. There will always be a few sitting close to the minimum limit. But if all can be set to the upper part of the correct clearance range and only good fuel is used they can easily last a (very) long time as my bike proved. The factory use a wider range of shims than we can get as service spares
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Post by teejayexc on May 17, 2013 22:04:46 GMT
The costs involved for factories/ service regimes for smaller increments in valve shims would far outweigh the benefits. That's why the clearances are 'relatively' wide in engineering parlance.
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Post by CD on May 20, 2013 13:00:30 GMT
Yes, but no, but yes, but...
The spares parts shims come in .05mm steps. The originals were in 0.02 steps so the factory clearances were closer to ideal than service settings can be. I could not get one shim size so ended up "grinding" down a factory shim on an diamond oil "stone". It needed to lose 0.03 mm & regular measuring kept it flat.
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Post by pastypirate on May 20, 2013 19:02:06 GMT
I notice CD above in your instruction you Use a small screwdriver in the edge slot to lift the shim
Use small pliers or magnet to pull out the shim.
is it wise to use a magnet ,will this not magnitize the shims hence attracting any metal particles to the cams etc promoting premature wear , I would have thought it would be better to use a non magnetic way to remove the shims just an observation
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Post by christhedivvy on May 20, 2013 19:50:50 GMT
I used a pair of the wife's tweasers. Much easier.
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Post by teejayexc on May 20, 2013 20:26:52 GMT
I used a pair of the wife's tweasers. Much easier. Yeh but don't those 'clocksprings' get in the gaps? |
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Post by rowlf on May 20, 2013 20:49:23 GMT
I used a pair of the wife's tweasers. Much easier. If she gets oily marks on her eyebrows I would not want to be you  |
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Post by CD on May 21, 2013 22:51:42 GMT
I tried tweasers but they were not strong enough for the job. Small pointy pliers and magnet were the best along with lots of fiddling about and cursing.
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was at the 20K mark then i checked them after fitting a new head gasket at the 37K mark haven't checked them since bike is now on 60K 
