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Post by stewart on Apr 21, 2012 16:00:54 GMT
hi any of you guys changed rear brake pads on a 1995 xj 900 s got to get a manual but need to change them now any tips please
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Post by CD on Apr 21, 2012 21:24:42 GMT
Easy peasy. Unclip the plastic cover that sits over the pads Pull the R-pin or split pin out of each pad retaining pin. Pull out the pins and lift out the old pads. Use a piece of 25mm x 3mm steel and some mole grips to lever the pistons back. Drop the bar down and twist with the grips. Fit new pads (use some copper grease where they contact the calliper) Slide in the pins and replace R clips Pump pedal to take out the slack Job done  Use sintered pads. They last at least 3x longer than standard pads If the pistons wont go back or if one pad is worn much more than the other, you may need to overhaul the calliper piston seals. Do it before it jams solid and the old seals may be ok. New Yamaha seals are megabux, but they fit unlike many pattern seals. |
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Post by stewart on Apr 22, 2012 15:07:18 GMT
thanks alot for info sounds straight forward enough much more than my buddies informed me they would strip half a bike down lol
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 22, 2012 15:39:02 GMT
Easy peasy. Unclip the plastic cover that sits over the pads Pull the R-pin or split pin out of each pad retaining pin. Pull out the pins and lift out the old pads. Use a piece of 25mm x 3mm steel and some mole grips to lever the pistons back. Drop the bar down and twist with the grips. Fit new pads (use some copper grease where they contact the calliper) Slide in the pins and replace R clips Pump pedal to take out the slack Job done Use sintered pads. They last at least 3x longer than standard pads If the pistons wont go back or if one pad is worn much more than the other, you may need to overhaul the calliper piston seals. Do it before it jams solid and the old seals may be ok. New Yamaha seals are megabux, but they fit unlike many pattern seals. I usually take the caliper off (without undoing the brakeline) to change pads, then follow the above procedure. CD, do you lever the pistons back against the brake disc  |
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Post by m40man on Apr 22, 2012 17:39:05 GMT
I do it the TEEJAY way  . |
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Post by CD on Apr 22, 2012 18:05:10 GMT
The pistons should slip back easily so minimal load on the disc. If force is needed, the calliper needs to be rebuilt (jammed seals).
If the disc cants stand that much side force or is lipped so the pads wont come out, its dangerous anyway and should be changed.
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Post by martin on Apr 27, 2012 10:16:05 GMT
I wouldn't lever against the disc with a bar, that would cost megabucks if you warped the disc!  I prefer to remove the caliper with the brake hose still attached and use a G clamp to ease the pistons back into the caliper. If they are a bit stiff insert the tip of a prybar between the two pistons and twist it to force them apart. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2012 10:51:25 GMT
I also do it the TJ and M40bloke way. Does this mean I've been wrong all these years ? I wouldn't force against the disk though I have done to get the git off. |
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 27, 2012 11:13:31 GMT
I also do it the TJ and M40bloke way. Does this mean I've been wrong all these years ? I wouldn't force against the disk though I have done to get the git off. You know it makes sense  2@tting the caliper with a rubber mallet aids removal from the disc  |
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Post by christhedivvy on Apr 27, 2012 12:45:28 GMT
.... with a rubber mallet[/quote] Rubber mallet?! PFFTTTTTTT get 10lb-er on it |
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 27, 2012 16:12:13 GMT
Rubber mallet?! PFFTTTTTTT get 10lb-er on it I aim to loosen it, not feckin muller it  |
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Post by christhedivvy on Apr 29, 2012 13:36:51 GMT
Too much foundry maintenance!! :-D
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Post by CD on May 4, 2012 9:14:01 GMT
I wouldn't lever against the disc with a bar, that would cost megabucks if you warped the disc! I prefer to remove the caliper with the brake hose still attached and use a G clamp to ease the pistons back into the caliper. If they are a bit stiff insert the tip of a prybar between the two pistons and twist it to force them apart. Agree, but the pistons should move easily so the disc isnt at risk. If gentle pressure wont push them back the calliper should come off the bike and be stripped. If pistons are sticking enough to need a G clamp they are probably due for stripping. Simply exercising the pistons in & out does nothing useful. The seals get squashed by alloy corrosion expanding underneath. New seals (that actually fit) cost megabux so doing it early saves time and money. |
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