Post by CD on Apr 21, 2012 12:29:58 GMT
This is the pannier rack I made for my 900.
Tools
Plumbers pipe bender with 15mm or 5/8" former to suit the tube.
Plumbers pipe cutter screw down type
Drills
Measuring tools
Hacksaw
Files or angle grinder
Welding set MIG, stick or gas
Materials
ERW steel tube with 1.5 or 2mm wall (enough length to make some goofs)
Steel strip 25 x 3 mm 600 length
Steel strip 50mm x 3mm 300 length
4 off 6mm bore tube lugs
2 off Givi case mounting mushrooms and latch sets.
Various fasteners M8 and M6. (stainless is least hassle long term)
Bolts to suit the frame mounts under the rear side panels. I have no idea what these are as my bike came with them fitted.
I used 5/8" OD x 2mm wall ERW steel tube and a plumber's pipe bender with an imperial tube former. If you can get it, 15mm tube will fit a standard pipe bender.
The measurements are shown in the picture.
The main tube that goes above the cans could be cut off just after the rear case lug and a straight tube taken under the mudguard, but I thought this bent tube arrangement looked neater.
The pipe bend radius will vary so I've given centreline values.
The hairpin width is dependent on the bending tool. I made two x 90 deg bends and welded the ends with a spacer inside but if the bender allows, do it in one curve. Now cut the 50mm wide steel strip to fit inside the hairpin and weld it in. You may need a spacer to sit under the Givi latch plate.
My hairpin looks nice but its really a bit short and made work with the latch block. I had to make my own. Very fiddly. Using the dimensions in the picture and a plate to carry the latch makes the alignments much easier to get right.
The top of my hairpin is level with the pillion grab handle and attached to the bike with a 25 x 3 steel strip. Its bolted through the top of the hairpin and twisted to sit neatly under the grab handle.
With the taller design the bracket would have a 90 degs fold at the end and be bolted through the 3mm steel plate inside the top of the hairpin.
The Givi latch block would also bolt through the 3mm plate at the correct spacing away from the lugs on the lower tube.
On mine. the "mushroom" lugs for the cases were turned from 8mm socket bolts, but standard Givi lugs would have been MUCH easier.
I also welded support tubes through the carrier frame so the bolts would not collapse the tube when tightened up. Threaded tubes would be neater or you could use Rivnuts. Givi use 6mm bolts on their "mushrooms"
The bottom tube ends are flattened drilled and bolted through the exhaust hanger bolts. I was then able to fit the angled brackets from the main frame under the bike's side panels.
There is a bit of fiddling to get the lug angle right but. Just be careful to get it the same either side. The main tube is set to give a 50mm gap between exhaust can and a Givi/Kappa side case. It's also angled to sit the case parallel with the standard exhaust cans.
When that's done, refit the side panels.
Knotch the ends of the hairpin to fit over the tube already on the bike and drop it into place with some 3mm card to keep it off the plastic side panel. You will need to make sure your side cases sit with enough space for the pillion's feet room but I found it sat dead centre on the pillion grab handle bracket
Tack weld the ends in place and take the frame off the bike to finish the welds.
Now weld in some spacer tubes to allow the mushroom bolts to be fully tightened. Holes for the the latch plate bolts can now be measured and drilled. This is where I had a to really fiddle and faff to get the hairpin just the right length. Using the 3mm plate in the top solves this problem.
Finally refit the frame and make the brackets for the top of the hairpin. They sit under the grab handle and will need a 90 degs fold on the end to bolt to the hairpin.
The grab handles fit as normal with longer bolts.
The only snag is when the back end plastic has to come off the bike so does the carrier. But a Wing Rack is no better. This rack is neater light weight and puts the cases as close as possible to the bike. Mine have done about 20,000 miles.
Three cheers for powder coating.
The standard indicators will not fit. Initially, I used the egg indicators in the picture but they are not pretty. I later made bracket to take two rectangular indicators.
www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/74048
Tools
Plumbers pipe bender with 15mm or 5/8" former to suit the tube.
Plumbers pipe cutter screw down type
Drills
Measuring tools
Hacksaw
Files or angle grinder
Welding set MIG, stick or gas
Materials
ERW steel tube with 1.5 or 2mm wall (enough length to make some goofs)
Steel strip 25 x 3 mm 600 length
Steel strip 50mm x 3mm 300 length
4 off 6mm bore tube lugs
2 off Givi case mounting mushrooms and latch sets.
Various fasteners M8 and M6. (stainless is least hassle long term)
Bolts to suit the frame mounts under the rear side panels. I have no idea what these are as my bike came with them fitted.
I used 5/8" OD x 2mm wall ERW steel tube and a plumber's pipe bender with an imperial tube former. If you can get it, 15mm tube will fit a standard pipe bender.
The measurements are shown in the picture.
The main tube that goes above the cans could be cut off just after the rear case lug and a straight tube taken under the mudguard, but I thought this bent tube arrangement looked neater.
The pipe bend radius will vary so I've given centreline values.
The hairpin width is dependent on the bending tool. I made two x 90 deg bends and welded the ends with a spacer inside but if the bender allows, do it in one curve. Now cut the 50mm wide steel strip to fit inside the hairpin and weld it in. You may need a spacer to sit under the Givi latch plate.
My hairpin looks nice but its really a bit short and made work with the latch block. I had to make my own. Very fiddly. Using the dimensions in the picture and a plate to carry the latch makes the alignments much easier to get right.
The top of my hairpin is level with the pillion grab handle and attached to the bike with a 25 x 3 steel strip. Its bolted through the top of the hairpin and twisted to sit neatly under the grab handle.
With the taller design the bracket would have a 90 degs fold at the end and be bolted through the 3mm steel plate inside the top of the hairpin.
The Givi latch block would also bolt through the 3mm plate at the correct spacing away from the lugs on the lower tube.
On mine. the "mushroom" lugs for the cases were turned from 8mm socket bolts, but standard Givi lugs would have been MUCH easier.
I also welded support tubes through the carrier frame so the bolts would not collapse the tube when tightened up. Threaded tubes would be neater or you could use Rivnuts. Givi use 6mm bolts on their "mushrooms"
The bottom tube ends are flattened drilled and bolted through the exhaust hanger bolts. I was then able to fit the angled brackets from the main frame under the bike's side panels.
There is a bit of fiddling to get the lug angle right but. Just be careful to get it the same either side. The main tube is set to give a 50mm gap between exhaust can and a Givi/Kappa side case. It's also angled to sit the case parallel with the standard exhaust cans.
When that's done, refit the side panels.
Knotch the ends of the hairpin to fit over the tube already on the bike and drop it into place with some 3mm card to keep it off the plastic side panel. You will need to make sure your side cases sit with enough space for the pillion's feet room but I found it sat dead centre on the pillion grab handle bracket
Tack weld the ends in place and take the frame off the bike to finish the welds.
Now weld in some spacer tubes to allow the mushroom bolts to be fully tightened. Holes for the the latch plate bolts can now be measured and drilled. This is where I had a to really fiddle and faff to get the hairpin just the right length. Using the 3mm plate in the top solves this problem.
Finally refit the frame and make the brackets for the top of the hairpin. They sit under the grab handle and will need a 90 degs fold on the end to bolt to the hairpin.
The grab handles fit as normal with longer bolts.
The only snag is when the back end plastic has to come off the bike so does the carrier. But a Wing Rack is no better. This rack is neater light weight and puts the cases as close as possible to the bike. Mine have done about 20,000 miles.
Three cheers for powder coating.
The standard indicators will not fit. Initially, I used the egg indicators in the picture but they are not pretty. I later made bracket to take two rectangular indicators.
www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/74048
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