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Post by barrowmatt on Apr 9, 2012 13:27:21 GMT
I thought I was doing well this afternoon, the last part of stripping my 600 is to remove the engine. I took the nut off the rear and loosened the front mounts, put it on the right-hand side and took the from mounts off. I assumed the rear mount bolt would come out easily with the weight off but it won't even turn!
Any tips to get this out?
Should I put the front mounts back on loosely, right the bike and give the rear bolt a whack with a hammer and wooden block? (With a jack under the engine to take the weight)
Is it just a long through bolt?
Cheers,
Matt
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Post by bobh on Apr 9, 2012 13:39:29 GMT
It is just a long through-bolt, but it corrodes where it goes through the alloy casing.
There's quite a lot of stuff in the archive of different methods for trying to shift it - good luck!
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Post by barrowmatt on Apr 9, 2012 15:00:22 GMT
I'll have a search, thanks.
I did put the front mounts back on and stood the bike upright again. Giving it a good smack didn't help unfortunately.
Does anyone know the head size, it seems to be between 13mm and 14mm but I found the best fit to be 9/16 socket but that should be slightly larger than 14mm. I only have it in bi-hex too and it has started to round the edges of the head.
If I can't get it out i'll just clean it up and rebuild fairly standard, was hoping to get the engine out to clean or paint and spray the frame some ridiculously bright colour!
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Post by CD on Apr 10, 2012 8:30:29 GMT
You need a sledge hammer (oh yes!) a 4lb lump hammer and a socket set you can abuse.
Put a socket that fits over the bolt head on an extension bar. Get a mate to hold it against the frame with the sledge hammer held tight against the extension.
From the other side of the bike give the bolt a good hard thump with the lump hammer. Don't faff about being careful - all you will do is mash the threads even more badly.
The sledge hammer absorbs the force through the frame, so your blows are going directly through the seized material. You have to be positive and hit it firmly. Once it moves, you can use a normal drift. If you burr over the thread you might need to grind it down before knocking it through. If its really stuck, the bolt will be scrap of course.
12 point sockets will do more harm than good. Before you ruin any more bolts, get some proper metric 6 points or better some wall drive sockets. Power/impact sockets are usually good.
That 9/16 will be fine for bashing out the seized engine bolt.
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Post by barrowmatt on Jan 13, 2013 16:52:09 GMT
I have come back to this problem as I haven't touched the bike really since my last post many months ago.
Put a large socket over the head of the bolt, 6" section of wooden fence post to jam it up against a brick wall, then smacked it repeatedly with a 4lb lump hammer and not a hint of movement! THe end of the bolt now looks like a mushroom.
Any other ideas, I could cut it but then it's still going to be a nightmare to get it out of the engine block.
The engine needs to be removed to make the project worthwhile, otherwise it's going to be scrap so will keep trying to salvage it.
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Post by bobh on Jan 13, 2013 17:56:50 GMT
If you do cut it, at least there's a chance that you could get some PlusGas and plenty of heat into the area to help shift it. CD's tip of arc welding to give some thermal shock is worth trying (disconnect all electrics first, mind).
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Post by CD on Jan 13, 2013 23:53:15 GMT
I have come back to this problem as I haven't touched the bike really since my last post many months ago. Put a large socket over the head of the bolt, 6" section of wooden fence post to jam it up against a brick wall, then smacked it repeatedly with a 4lb lump hammer and not a hint of movement! THe end of the bolt now looks like a mushroom. I did warn that not properly supporting the other side would do this. The wall isn't solid enough and wood absorbs the impact. Why not just cut the losses and cut the frame off the engine or scrap the bike. What state is the clutch in? or the death rattle pin under the clutch or the carbs and linkages or the electrics, etc, etc. Edit this might be worth a look diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=forsale&action=display&thread=19014
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