Post by ContourMac on Oct 16, 2011 16:21:43 GMT
Austrian Alps 2010
As Neil reminded me recently we have never put together a report on our trip to Austria last year so I will attempt to rectify this error. Please note however that I am relying on a brain that cannot recall breakfast let alone what happened last year so some facts may be sketchy (or downright incorrect)
Thursday 26/8/2010: 117miles
For reasons of geography it was decided that two groups would make their way separately to the Maidstone area for an overnight stop and meet over an evening meal prior to crossing the channel on Friday. Wing Commander Neil was heading down from Beverley via Coningsby to collect his wingman Lee. Ian & Babs had come down to Ecton the previous night to meet Debs & I. Due to the weather in the morning the Ecton posse held off departing until 11am then headed down the B645/A428 to Cambridge before taking the M11 south. We copped a couple of showers but nothing serious and checked into Grange Moor Hotel at around 3pm.
After a shower we took a stroll into the town. We rang Neil for an ETA but found that Lee was experiencing a few problems with the VFR blowing bulbs and they had diverted to a Honda dealership to sort it out. They advised weren’t going to make it in time for dinner so we went back to the hotel for drinks and a bite to eat.
Friday: 383 miles
We awoke early and tucked into what we knew was to be our last “full English” for a while. Then we loaded the bikes and set off. As was to be the norm today we ran into heavy rain on the M20. We finally met up with the others at the services just before the Chunnel terminal and boarded the train where we introduced ourselves to Lee & the obligatory tour T-Shirts were distributed.
We exited the train and started what was a miserable ride down through Belgium, Luxembourg and France. We must have hit at least at least 8 separate sets of roadworks which we had to filter through. On top of this we were rained on frequently (torrentially in Bastogne) so we were glad to arrive at the Ibis in Metz. To be fair they were very accommodating and allowed us to park the bikes in the yard at the rear of the hotel. Lee was having a problem with a broken mount on one of his panniers so a fix was initiated using a restraint strap that Ian had brought along “in case Babs wanted some role play”.
It had started raining again when we had had our showers so we decided that the Jungle bar 2 doors down would suffice for a meal. As it turned out it was an excellent choice and we had a great evening together. As is the way with our trips abroad we set up a kitty. Each person adds an equal share to the kitty which is then used to pay all meals, coffee stops, tolls, entrance fees and bar bills that the group may incur. Babs was duly appointed ”Kitty Woman”
Saturday: 185 miles
Following a rather meagre breakfast (in an Ibis it is always recommended to get to the breakfast buffet early as they are not very good at topping up the selection) we came out of the hotel into bright sunshine. We headed east out of Metz on the motorway. We ran into our first problem of the day when trying to exit the motorway at a toll booth we found we were a ticket short. This was soon sorted by confusing the operator with a mixture of Yorkshire and Geordie speak and we headed on our way again. We skirted Hagenou on B roads and crossed the Rhine into Germany at the start of the famous B500 near Baden-Baden. This is meant to be one of the best biking roads in Europe but right at the start we ran into problems. The first part of the road was under roadworks so we had to wait at various sets of lights and then we got frequently stuck behind groups of Harley riders demonstrating why they are such a carp machine. They cornered at 30mph using the entire road and frequently ran wide crossing the white lines. We gave up after a while and stopped at a restaurant where we were introduced to the local delicacy – Goulash Soup followed by Black Forest Gateau.
After the break we continued down the B500. The road improved and there were some great bends with no more bro’s on hogs to get in our way but in all the road was a bit of a disappointment when compared with what we had ridden on the Route Du Grande Alpe in 2009 and what was to come in Austria.
The Waldblick Hotel was on the other hand a delight. When we were organising the trip Ian & Babs had booked late and the only room option that was left was a four bed to be shared with myself and Debs. This we had neglected to advise Babs about. When we arrived however the manager was not about so we decided to flannel the desk clerk into giving us 2 doubles. We had barely had time to eat the chocolates on the pillows when the manager came knocking on the door advising that we had been allocated the wrong rooms but “fortunately” a biker who was booked in had, in true Hedgebuster style, failed to negotiate a corner and would be residing in the local hospital instead so we could keep the rooms. It was still early so we sat outside and had a few beers.
A game of crazy golf ensued after which Debs & Babs played on the swings. We went to bed looking forward to tomorrow and reaching our destination of Austria.
Sunday: 210 miles
The Waldblick Hotel
The brekky at the Waldblick was much better than previous day with a hot and cold plentiful buffet that was made the most of. The Goulash soup and beer of the previous day had had a negative influence on my innards and I did not envy Debs having to use the bathroom after me.
By now Lee’s man-flu, which had been growing over the past day or so, was reaching its zenith and, like a warning beacon, his nose was glowing as bright as a brake light. This, added to his other tribulations, had already earned him the nickname “Lucky”. Filled full of ham, eggs and Beecham’s extra strength we headed down towards Lake Constance. Initially the roads were quiet and sweeping but as we got nearer to the lake they became much busier. We had planned to visit the Zeppelin museum in Meersburg but as it was so warm we decided to walk along the edge of the lake into the town and get something to eat.
Most of the cafes were busy but we found a place on a side street that was quiet so we grabbed a table. We then found out it was quiet for a reason. The waiter/owner was an ignorant oaf who, although it was obvious he could actually speak English, refused to try to help our translation of the menu. We ended up with a mixture of Goulash Soup and weinersnitzels which was very tasty. The waiter ended up with no tip. The sun was really beating down as we returned to the bikes where “Lucky’s” circlip on his topbox somehow fell out prompting another bungee fix. We started to understand why Lee had never been assigned to aircraft maintenance. However we were soon on our way again and headed away from the lake and towards the line of mountains in the distance that were the Austrian Alps. This was the bit of the journey we had been waiting for and we were not disappointed. The scenery was fantastic and the roads were unbelievable. We rode down the L200 and stopped for a cup of coffee at Au before carrying on through the Hochtannberg pass (1676m). At one point we were worried when the road appeared to be incomplete but it was just an illusion.
We continued on through the Flaxenpass (1773m) and Albergpass (1793m) to finally arrive in Landeck. Those of you who have attended the NEC bike shows over the years will no doubt have seen the Hotel Enzian stand with Klaus stood there in his shorts handing out shots of Schnapps. He really is as mad as a box of frogs but his hotel is first class and the rooms were better than any I have stayed in the UK.
This was to be our base until Friday so we unpacked, showered and found the bar. The choice of beer was limited but a pint was €3.50 and it was poured properly without a head you can put a flake in. The jukebox piped out a mixture of 70s/80s rock standards. Most of those who were staying were Brits so we soon started to pick up titbits of information regards good roads and warnings about Swiss speed-traps. Evening meal was plentiful and well cooked consisting of 4 courses; Cold meat &salad buffet, soup/pate, main course, dessert.
Right outside the hotel there was a big stage set up in the street with tables and a few beer & Bratwurst stalls in front to celebrate something or other. In the evening the crowds gathered and sang whilst an Austrian brass band played umpa music. We watched for a while then retired back to the bar and finally to bed. Neil, Lee, Debs & I were lucky in that our rooms were on the back of the hotel whereas Ian & Babs overlooked the stage so they were serenaded to sleep by 12 trumpets playing Johann Strauss’ finest works.
Monday: 167 miles
The dawn brought grey and overcast weather with the promise of drizzle and showers. Talking of drizzle “Lucky’s” Man-Flu was even worse and over breakfast we discussed taking him to a vet and having him put out of his misery. Debs & Babs decided that this would be a good day for a pampering so the four blokes donned waterproofs and headed off. We had planned a northern circular route which gave us the option of returning early should the weather really deteriorate. We headed up to Imst and then approached the Hahntennjoch pass (1894m) from the east. The views on the ascent were again breathtaking.
To be honest the descent was not as enjoyable to me personally. It was very steep and the roads were wet which I am not comfortable with. I had a couple of small slides which destroyed my confidence so I just tiptoed my way down. Annoyingly the others did not seem to suffer the same problems as me and handled the descent without any difficulties. At the bottom we regrouped and stopped for a coffee at a small hotel which advertised Bikers Welcome. On the wall outside there was even a visor wash station with a clean sponge and cloth. You don’t see that in the UK. Then again they don’t charge you €4 each for a cup of coffee!! After we had beenSuckered served we continued to the Hochtannberg pass which we traversed the opposite way to yesterday and then headed on to the Furkajoch (1761m). As we started up the eastern approach to we had an interesting taste of the method of roadworks in this region. We came across some temporary traffic lights on a blind bend. When it was our turn to proceed we rounded the bend to find that the road had been totally dug up and the only way forward was to weave our way past the excavators and dumper trucks on a surface littered with 3” stones whilst avoiding the drop off the sheer edge. After this we continued our ascent until we saw the road disappearing into the snowline so we pulled in at a convenient restaurant for lunch and a much needed warm up before tackling the snow.
We all had the special of the day (Goulash soup!) with plenty of bread and coffee before heading on. Fortunately the summit was only a couple of miles further on but the snows were making their presence felt on the road.
The road down had dried out so we had an enjoyable descent along a sweeping road that hugged the edge of the mountainside and the sun even came out for brief periods. We began to think the worst was over as we reached the furthest point from the hotel and turned to head back. There was a slight hiccup where we all took a wrong turn and headed on to a motorway. We had not planned to use them at all so none of us had brought a “vignette”. You can get a large fine if caught without one so we exited at the next junction and soon arrived at our last pass of the day – Silvretta (2032m). As this is a toll we forked out the €11 each. Just as we left the kiosk a light drizzle began to fall again so we stopped to don waterproofs before heading on. We had been told that the best approach to the pass is from the West and there was no doubt in our minds that this is correct as we reached the first of 30 hairpins that snaked up the mountain. We soon caught up with a bus which held us up for a couple of turns until we could get past. As we climbed higher the weather got colder and the rain heavier. It then turned to snow which quickly became a blizzard.
This was not fun. We could barely see through our visors and my glasses were fogged. The snow was settling on the road making riding treacherous. Riding was not helped by the knowledge that if you left the tarmac you would probably have time to recite the complete Lord’s Prayer before hitting the ground and if that was not enough the bus had caught us up and was sitting 4” from our number plates.
Thankfully we navigated the last of the hairpins and reached the summit at Bieler Hohe where there was a large lake
.....apparently. We were stood 5m from the edge and could not see anything. It was difficult to appreciate that it was August Bank Holiday Monday and we were less than 150 miles from Venice and the Mediterranean. The rain magnet was really working overtime here. We had a quick photo shoot, for evidence more than sightseeing, and headed on. The road to the east of Silvretta is relatively straight so we made progress back down below the snowline. Our visibility improved and visors cleared. So with the rain easing we rode towards the hotel and warmth.
Over dinner that evening we noticed a group all wearing Hawaiian shirt. We thought that this was a sign of an improvement in the weather but was disappointed to find that they had been brought on EBay from someone called Fly Fi’s Fashions.
Tuesday: 0 miles
As had been predicted today was wet and miserable and they were warning of bad conditions on the passes. Even Klaus had cancelled his guided tour so we decided that if the locals won’t ride in it then we would be foolish to. Instead we caught the bus into town to see what was on offer. After a quick stop off at the chemist so Lucky could stock up on some drugs for his Man-Flu we headed up to the castle which dominated the skyline. On the way we stopped off at a memorial to those that had lost in 1918 and in 1945.
The castle itself was unique in that you were encouraged to pick up and interact with many of the items on display, something that would be unheard of in the UK. Some of our group decided to have a mini fashion show.
Whilst I took an IQ test
Following the tour a warning drink was called for so we headed into the small cafe’ hewn into the cliff at the foot of the castle walls and partook of hot chocolate mixed with rum. Suitably warmed we headed back to the Enzian for a spot of lunch. In the afternoon the rain had eased so Neil & I had a stroll up to the next town whilst the others chilled in the hotel.
Wednesday: 180 miles
What a contrast to Tuesday!! Blue sky and the sun cracking the pavement so we headed off towards the primary reason for our trip – Stelvio! Debs was beginning to feel unwell with a touch of Flu and did not want to ride so Neil kindly offered a pillion. The first stop was at the Reschensee which is at the start of the Reschenpass (1455m). This is a manmade lake created by damming the river. The occupants were resited but the village was flooded which left the old church steeple still protruding from the water. At the visitors centre you can see a model of the lake showing the location of all the old houses.
Continuing on up the Reschenpass we passed into Italy. The ‘Guzzi was home! The roads were wide with fast sweepers and overtaking the traffic was easy but you had to keep one eye open for the Italian rozzers who were known to patrol this section looking for “offenders”.
We stopped at Prato Allo Stelvio for fuel and then Neil selected Matt Monroe’s “On Days Like These” on his IPod and took off towards the awesome 2757m Passo Dello Stelvio (or Stilfserjoch as it is otherwise known). The road was busy but we managed to clear a backlog of traffic cause by one of the many tour buses and dropped into the first hairpin. On the bend was a sign with 48 on it. I thought this was a speed caution sign but would be amazed if anyone could make the bend at nearly 30mph. All became clear when at the next hairpin was a sign saying 47. The countdown continued as we rose slowly up the maintain.
As you would expect there was a great mixture of traffic about. The most dangerous being the tour buses which used the entire road to take a hairpin. We soon realised the life saving benefit of looking well up the exit of the next corner to check if one of these beasts was approaching and to graciously give way (because they would not!!). We all made the summit without incident though and celebrated with a bratwurst and a coke before posing for the customary photos.
After a bit of sightseeing we continued on with the route. We skirted Bormio and headed over the Passo Foscagno (2291m) and down into Livigno where we had planned a bit of tax free shopping at a motorcycle outlet but was unable to locate the shop. Instead we stopped for a coffee and a chat with a couple of Guzzi owners and then headed North along the edge of a lake in Stelvio National Park toward the Swiss border.
As we waited to enter the Munt La Schera tunnel we got chatting with a Yellow Ducati rider from Holland who was touring the Alps for a few days.
The tunnel is about 2 miles long and single track with traffic flow controlled by lights. The Swiss customs is at the northern end but we barely got a second look. As we started to climb the approach to the Ofenpass (2149m) we caught up with a ZZR1100 heavily laden with camping gear. We followed him for a way and were not filled with confidence in his riding ability, particularly on a bike that large. He had a habit of slowing right down for corners and varying his line around the bend but then opening the throttle full on the exit before braking hard for the next bend which again would be taken slowly. This made him difficult to pass but eventually Neil made it. The rest of us were waiting for an opportunity when, just after the summit he grabbed a handful of front brake whilst cranked over on a downhill hairpin and “binned” it right in front of us. We quickly went to his aid but he had not hurt himself and the bike was relatively unscathed.
We lifted the bike back upright and, after again checking he was OK, took the opportunity to put this particular mobile hazard behind us. Neil was waiting at the next town, as were the Swiss Police with speed cameras. We had been warned to expect this so had been strictly obeying all limits as the penalties can be very severe. We soon re-entered Austria and retraced our steps over the Reschenpass and returned to the hotel. Over a beer in the bar we discussed the day and I think we all agreed it would be hard to find a better biking route. Surprisingly though we thought that the best pass had not been Stelvio, even though this was the primary reason for the trip, but Ofenpass because of its lack of traffic, superb surface and wider, more inviting bends.
Thursday: 196 miles
This was to be our last day before we started the long trip home and we wanted to make the most of it. Debs was feeling decidedly worse having inherited Lee’s lurgie so the girls decided another day in the Spa and pool was in order. The 4 blokes headed off again in the direction of the Reschenpass but soon cut off and began to climb a steep narrow series of hairpins. At the top we came to a cul de sac with a viewpoint over the valley.
We were however a bit apprehensive when the Garmin insisted that the way forward was down what looked to be a gravel path through a wood. Curiosity won through (in a battle with common sense) and we decided to blindly follow the Sat-Nav like sheep. For the next 15 miles we were treated to a path that you wouldn’t even see on a Reaper run. It snaked through the woodland with the occasional piece of tarmac that would deteriorate to loose gravel normally halfway round a bend or in the middle of a downhill descent. With stream crossings constructed of railway sleepers with gaps large enough to drop your front tyre through. For all this it was really enjoyable and there was a certain amount of disappointment when we finally reached the main road at Wenns. This is a fantastic part of the countryside with a picture postcard views no matter where you look.
We headed south down the B186 and. after a coffee stop at Poscach, turned towards the first, and highest, of todays passes - Timmeljoch (2509m). The approach to the pass was a fantastic ride with well surfaced roads that became lined with snow as we rode above the snowline.
Beyond the summit we passed into Italy via a 400m tunnel full of potholes that were difficult to see in the dark. At the exit we stopped at a kiosk to admire the view which was astounding.
After a short break we continued down into Italy and a lunch at a local Pizzeria (when in Rome). Suitably fed and watered we headed through the Passo Giovo which led on to our next objective Jaufenpass (2099m). There was a sign that advised the pass was closed but we had not ridden so far to turn back so decided to chance our arm and continue. As it turned out the way was clear and we arrived at the summit without incident only to be joined by our Ducati riding friend that we had met yesterday. We had a chat and found that his name was Kees & he was riding up to Innsbruck to catch the Motorail back to Dusseldorf after 5 days touring the Alps.
He agreed to join us on the next leg of our journey so we saddled up and headed up through the Brenner pass (2165m). This was a bit of a disappointment as it was heavily trafficked even though the through traffic now used the motorway. We passed back into Austria and then said farewell to Kees as we turned to head west towards our final pass of the day - Kuhtai Sattel (2017m). This was a different sort of pass as the approach is up a long valley so you don’t realise that you are so high up until the snow starts to line the sides of the road. Another hazard was the cows and horses that were free to wonder and to leave their residue on the tarmac.
Having completed our last pass we turned our bikes towards the hotel and returned for a well needed shower and dinner. After our meal we headed for the bar to enjoy our last night in the Enzian. After a few drinks Debs & Babs headed off to sleep about 10ish. We said that we would follow shortly but got talking to a group from Kent who had just arrived. Babs had taken the Kitty with her and all our money was in the room so with funds and beer running low we came up with a cunning plan. We let slip that it was Ian’s birthday and they insisted on buying us drinks. Then the barmaid disappeared into the kitchen and appeared a few minutes later with a cake with candles in it. We had a great night and finally got to bed about 2ish.
Friday: 355 miles
We awoke slightly fuzzy in the morning but after a much needed breakfast and coffee we loaded our bikes and started the long journey home. Deb’s cold was now in full flow and we had to stop a couple of times early on as she was sneezing so much she could not ride. She soldiered on though and we soon reached Germany and the boredom of 300 plus miles of autobahn. We made good time and arrived at our overnight stop in Koblenz about 5pm. After booking in we changed and headed off into the town looking for something to eat. The bars in the old town were very busy and the locals unfriendly but we eventually found a Moroccan restaurant which served a very decent mixed grill that was for 2 to share although I think Lee was again unlucky on the plate given to him.
After a few Long Island Teas for some reason Neil felt compelled to advise the proprietor of the establishment how to attract more custom by redecorating the entrance much to the amusement of the rest of us. After the meal we walked to where the Mosel met the Rhine and then called it a day.
Saturday: 502 miles
An early breakfast was called for as a long day stretched before us. We packed, saddled up and looked to head back to the autobahn. A slight delay was caused when Neil got separated from the rest of us but we soon regrouped and began to eat the miles through Germany, Holland, Belgium and France back to the Eurotunnel. Whilst we waited for the train Debs kept herself amused with a little nipple tweeking.
With Debs stimulated again we boarded the train and crossed back into Blighty and using the correct side of the road. Our final stop as a group was at Maidstone services where we had a coffee and bade farewell to Neil & Lee who would be leaving us taking the M11 to the A1.
Ian & Babs returned with Debs & I back to Ecton for a rest stop before completing their trip to Cumbria on Sunday.
In all Debs & I had a great tour and it was made even better by a brilliant set of touring companions. We do intend to return one day as there are plenty more passes to see.
Once again I apologise for the long wait for, and the length of, the trip account but there was a lot to include and I don’t type very quickly. Hope you enjoyed it.
As Neil reminded me recently we have never put together a report on our trip to Austria last year so I will attempt to rectify this error. Please note however that I am relying on a brain that cannot recall breakfast let alone what happened last year so some facts may be sketchy (or downright incorrect)
Thursday 26/8/2010: 117miles
For reasons of geography it was decided that two groups would make their way separately to the Maidstone area for an overnight stop and meet over an evening meal prior to crossing the channel on Friday. Wing Commander Neil was heading down from Beverley via Coningsby to collect his wingman Lee. Ian & Babs had come down to Ecton the previous night to meet Debs & I. Due to the weather in the morning the Ecton posse held off departing until 11am then headed down the B645/A428 to Cambridge before taking the M11 south. We copped a couple of showers but nothing serious and checked into Grange Moor Hotel at around 3pm.
After a shower we took a stroll into the town. We rang Neil for an ETA but found that Lee was experiencing a few problems with the VFR blowing bulbs and they had diverted to a Honda dealership to sort it out. They advised weren’t going to make it in time for dinner so we went back to the hotel for drinks and a bite to eat.
Friday: 383 miles
We awoke early and tucked into what we knew was to be our last “full English” for a while. Then we loaded the bikes and set off. As was to be the norm today we ran into heavy rain on the M20. We finally met up with the others at the services just before the Chunnel terminal and boarded the train where we introduced ourselves to Lee & the obligatory tour T-Shirts were distributed.
We exited the train and started what was a miserable ride down through Belgium, Luxembourg and France. We must have hit at least at least 8 separate sets of roadworks which we had to filter through. On top of this we were rained on frequently (torrentially in Bastogne) so we were glad to arrive at the Ibis in Metz. To be fair they were very accommodating and allowed us to park the bikes in the yard at the rear of the hotel. Lee was having a problem with a broken mount on one of his panniers so a fix was initiated using a restraint strap that Ian had brought along “in case Babs wanted some role play”.
It had started raining again when we had had our showers so we decided that the Jungle bar 2 doors down would suffice for a meal. As it turned out it was an excellent choice and we had a great evening together. As is the way with our trips abroad we set up a kitty. Each person adds an equal share to the kitty which is then used to pay all meals, coffee stops, tolls, entrance fees and bar bills that the group may incur. Babs was duly appointed ”Kitty Woman”
Saturday: 185 miles
Following a rather meagre breakfast (in an Ibis it is always recommended to get to the breakfast buffet early as they are not very good at topping up the selection) we came out of the hotel into bright sunshine. We headed east out of Metz on the motorway. We ran into our first problem of the day when trying to exit the motorway at a toll booth we found we were a ticket short. This was soon sorted by confusing the operator with a mixture of Yorkshire and Geordie speak and we headed on our way again. We skirted Hagenou on B roads and crossed the Rhine into Germany at the start of the famous B500 near Baden-Baden. This is meant to be one of the best biking roads in Europe but right at the start we ran into problems. The first part of the road was under roadworks so we had to wait at various sets of lights and then we got frequently stuck behind groups of Harley riders demonstrating why they are such a carp machine. They cornered at 30mph using the entire road and frequently ran wide crossing the white lines. We gave up after a while and stopped at a restaurant where we were introduced to the local delicacy – Goulash Soup followed by Black Forest Gateau.
After the break we continued down the B500. The road improved and there were some great bends with no more bro’s on hogs to get in our way but in all the road was a bit of a disappointment when compared with what we had ridden on the Route Du Grande Alpe in 2009 and what was to come in Austria.
The Waldblick Hotel was on the other hand a delight. When we were organising the trip Ian & Babs had booked late and the only room option that was left was a four bed to be shared with myself and Debs. This we had neglected to advise Babs about. When we arrived however the manager was not about so we decided to flannel the desk clerk into giving us 2 doubles. We had barely had time to eat the chocolates on the pillows when the manager came knocking on the door advising that we had been allocated the wrong rooms but “fortunately” a biker who was booked in had, in true Hedgebuster style, failed to negotiate a corner and would be residing in the local hospital instead so we could keep the rooms. It was still early so we sat outside and had a few beers.
A game of crazy golf ensued after which Debs & Babs played on the swings. We went to bed looking forward to tomorrow and reaching our destination of Austria.
Sunday: 210 miles
The Waldblick Hotel
The brekky at the Waldblick was much better than previous day with a hot and cold plentiful buffet that was made the most of. The Goulash soup and beer of the previous day had had a negative influence on my innards and I did not envy Debs having to use the bathroom after me.
By now Lee’s man-flu, which had been growing over the past day or so, was reaching its zenith and, like a warning beacon, his nose was glowing as bright as a brake light. This, added to his other tribulations, had already earned him the nickname “Lucky”. Filled full of ham, eggs and Beecham’s extra strength we headed down towards Lake Constance. Initially the roads were quiet and sweeping but as we got nearer to the lake they became much busier. We had planned to visit the Zeppelin museum in Meersburg but as it was so warm we decided to walk along the edge of the lake into the town and get something to eat.
Most of the cafes were busy but we found a place on a side street that was quiet so we grabbed a table. We then found out it was quiet for a reason. The waiter/owner was an ignorant oaf who, although it was obvious he could actually speak English, refused to try to help our translation of the menu. We ended up with a mixture of Goulash Soup and weinersnitzels which was very tasty. The waiter ended up with no tip. The sun was really beating down as we returned to the bikes where “Lucky’s” circlip on his topbox somehow fell out prompting another bungee fix. We started to understand why Lee had never been assigned to aircraft maintenance. However we were soon on our way again and headed away from the lake and towards the line of mountains in the distance that were the Austrian Alps. This was the bit of the journey we had been waiting for and we were not disappointed. The scenery was fantastic and the roads were unbelievable. We rode down the L200 and stopped for a cup of coffee at Au before carrying on through the Hochtannberg pass (1676m). At one point we were worried when the road appeared to be incomplete but it was just an illusion.
We continued on through the Flaxenpass (1773m) and Albergpass (1793m) to finally arrive in Landeck. Those of you who have attended the NEC bike shows over the years will no doubt have seen the Hotel Enzian stand with Klaus stood there in his shorts handing out shots of Schnapps. He really is as mad as a box of frogs but his hotel is first class and the rooms were better than any I have stayed in the UK.
This was to be our base until Friday so we unpacked, showered and found the bar. The choice of beer was limited but a pint was €3.50 and it was poured properly without a head you can put a flake in. The jukebox piped out a mixture of 70s/80s rock standards. Most of those who were staying were Brits so we soon started to pick up titbits of information regards good roads and warnings about Swiss speed-traps. Evening meal was plentiful and well cooked consisting of 4 courses; Cold meat &salad buffet, soup/pate, main course, dessert.
Right outside the hotel there was a big stage set up in the street with tables and a few beer & Bratwurst stalls in front to celebrate something or other. In the evening the crowds gathered and sang whilst an Austrian brass band played umpa music. We watched for a while then retired back to the bar and finally to bed. Neil, Lee, Debs & I were lucky in that our rooms were on the back of the hotel whereas Ian & Babs overlooked the stage so they were serenaded to sleep by 12 trumpets playing Johann Strauss’ finest works.
Monday: 167 miles
The dawn brought grey and overcast weather with the promise of drizzle and showers. Talking of drizzle “Lucky’s” Man-Flu was even worse and over breakfast we discussed taking him to a vet and having him put out of his misery. Debs & Babs decided that this would be a good day for a pampering so the four blokes donned waterproofs and headed off. We had planned a northern circular route which gave us the option of returning early should the weather really deteriorate. We headed up to Imst and then approached the Hahntennjoch pass (1894m) from the east. The views on the ascent were again breathtaking.
To be honest the descent was not as enjoyable to me personally. It was very steep and the roads were wet which I am not comfortable with. I had a couple of small slides which destroyed my confidence so I just tiptoed my way down. Annoyingly the others did not seem to suffer the same problems as me and handled the descent without any difficulties. At the bottom we regrouped and stopped for a coffee at a small hotel which advertised Bikers Welcome. On the wall outside there was even a visor wash station with a clean sponge and cloth. You don’t see that in the UK. Then again they don’t charge you €4 each for a cup of coffee!! After we had been
We all had the special of the day (Goulash soup!) with plenty of bread and coffee before heading on. Fortunately the summit was only a couple of miles further on but the snows were making their presence felt on the road.
The road down had dried out so we had an enjoyable descent along a sweeping road that hugged the edge of the mountainside and the sun even came out for brief periods. We began to think the worst was over as we reached the furthest point from the hotel and turned to head back. There was a slight hiccup where we all took a wrong turn and headed on to a motorway. We had not planned to use them at all so none of us had brought a “vignette”. You can get a large fine if caught without one so we exited at the next junction and soon arrived at our last pass of the day – Silvretta (2032m). As this is a toll we forked out the €11 each. Just as we left the kiosk a light drizzle began to fall again so we stopped to don waterproofs before heading on. We had been told that the best approach to the pass is from the West and there was no doubt in our minds that this is correct as we reached the first of 30 hairpins that snaked up the mountain. We soon caught up with a bus which held us up for a couple of turns until we could get past. As we climbed higher the weather got colder and the rain heavier. It then turned to snow which quickly became a blizzard.
This was not fun. We could barely see through our visors and my glasses were fogged. The snow was settling on the road making riding treacherous. Riding was not helped by the knowledge that if you left the tarmac you would probably have time to recite the complete Lord’s Prayer before hitting the ground and if that was not enough the bus had caught us up and was sitting 4” from our number plates.
Thankfully we navigated the last of the hairpins and reached the summit at Bieler Hohe where there was a large lake
.....apparently. We were stood 5m from the edge and could not see anything. It was difficult to appreciate that it was August Bank Holiday Monday and we were less than 150 miles from Venice and the Mediterranean. The rain magnet was really working overtime here. We had a quick photo shoot, for evidence more than sightseeing, and headed on. The road to the east of Silvretta is relatively straight so we made progress back down below the snowline. Our visibility improved and visors cleared. So with the rain easing we rode towards the hotel and warmth.
Over dinner that evening we noticed a group all wearing Hawaiian shirt. We thought that this was a sign of an improvement in the weather but was disappointed to find that they had been brought on EBay from someone called Fly Fi’s Fashions.
Tuesday: 0 miles
As had been predicted today was wet and miserable and they were warning of bad conditions on the passes. Even Klaus had cancelled his guided tour so we decided that if the locals won’t ride in it then we would be foolish to. Instead we caught the bus into town to see what was on offer. After a quick stop off at the chemist so Lucky could stock up on some drugs for his Man-Flu we headed up to the castle which dominated the skyline. On the way we stopped off at a memorial to those that had lost in 1918 and in 1945.
The castle itself was unique in that you were encouraged to pick up and interact with many of the items on display, something that would be unheard of in the UK. Some of our group decided to have a mini fashion show.
Whilst I took an IQ test
Following the tour a warning drink was called for so we headed into the small cafe’ hewn into the cliff at the foot of the castle walls and partook of hot chocolate mixed with rum. Suitably warmed we headed back to the Enzian for a spot of lunch. In the afternoon the rain had eased so Neil & I had a stroll up to the next town whilst the others chilled in the hotel.
Wednesday: 180 miles
What a contrast to Tuesday!! Blue sky and the sun cracking the pavement so we headed off towards the primary reason for our trip – Stelvio! Debs was beginning to feel unwell with a touch of Flu and did not want to ride so Neil kindly offered a pillion. The first stop was at the Reschensee which is at the start of the Reschenpass (1455m). This is a manmade lake created by damming the river. The occupants were resited but the village was flooded which left the old church steeple still protruding from the water. At the visitors centre you can see a model of the lake showing the location of all the old houses.
Continuing on up the Reschenpass we passed into Italy. The ‘Guzzi was home! The roads were wide with fast sweepers and overtaking the traffic was easy but you had to keep one eye open for the Italian rozzers who were known to patrol this section looking for “offenders”.
We stopped at Prato Allo Stelvio for fuel and then Neil selected Matt Monroe’s “On Days Like These” on his IPod and took off towards the awesome 2757m Passo Dello Stelvio (or Stilfserjoch as it is otherwise known). The road was busy but we managed to clear a backlog of traffic cause by one of the many tour buses and dropped into the first hairpin. On the bend was a sign with 48 on it. I thought this was a speed caution sign but would be amazed if anyone could make the bend at nearly 30mph. All became clear when at the next hairpin was a sign saying 47. The countdown continued as we rose slowly up the maintain.
As you would expect there was a great mixture of traffic about. The most dangerous being the tour buses which used the entire road to take a hairpin. We soon realised the life saving benefit of looking well up the exit of the next corner to check if one of these beasts was approaching and to graciously give way (because they would not!!). We all made the summit without incident though and celebrated with a bratwurst and a coke before posing for the customary photos.
After a bit of sightseeing we continued on with the route. We skirted Bormio and headed over the Passo Foscagno (2291m) and down into Livigno where we had planned a bit of tax free shopping at a motorcycle outlet but was unable to locate the shop. Instead we stopped for a coffee and a chat with a couple of Guzzi owners and then headed North along the edge of a lake in Stelvio National Park toward the Swiss border.
As we waited to enter the Munt La Schera tunnel we got chatting with a Yellow Ducati rider from Holland who was touring the Alps for a few days.
The tunnel is about 2 miles long and single track with traffic flow controlled by lights. The Swiss customs is at the northern end but we barely got a second look. As we started to climb the approach to the Ofenpass (2149m) we caught up with a ZZR1100 heavily laden with camping gear. We followed him for a way and were not filled with confidence in his riding ability, particularly on a bike that large. He had a habit of slowing right down for corners and varying his line around the bend but then opening the throttle full on the exit before braking hard for the next bend which again would be taken slowly. This made him difficult to pass but eventually Neil made it. The rest of us were waiting for an opportunity when, just after the summit he grabbed a handful of front brake whilst cranked over on a downhill hairpin and “binned” it right in front of us. We quickly went to his aid but he had not hurt himself and the bike was relatively unscathed.
We lifted the bike back upright and, after again checking he was OK, took the opportunity to put this particular mobile hazard behind us. Neil was waiting at the next town, as were the Swiss Police with speed cameras. We had been warned to expect this so had been strictly obeying all limits as the penalties can be very severe. We soon re-entered Austria and retraced our steps over the Reschenpass and returned to the hotel. Over a beer in the bar we discussed the day and I think we all agreed it would be hard to find a better biking route. Surprisingly though we thought that the best pass had not been Stelvio, even though this was the primary reason for the trip, but Ofenpass because of its lack of traffic, superb surface and wider, more inviting bends.
Thursday: 196 miles
This was to be our last day before we started the long trip home and we wanted to make the most of it. Debs was feeling decidedly worse having inherited Lee’s lurgie so the girls decided another day in the Spa and pool was in order. The 4 blokes headed off again in the direction of the Reschenpass but soon cut off and began to climb a steep narrow series of hairpins. At the top we came to a cul de sac with a viewpoint over the valley.
We were however a bit apprehensive when the Garmin insisted that the way forward was down what looked to be a gravel path through a wood. Curiosity won through (in a battle with common sense) and we decided to blindly follow the Sat-Nav like sheep. For the next 15 miles we were treated to a path that you wouldn’t even see on a Reaper run. It snaked through the woodland with the occasional piece of tarmac that would deteriorate to loose gravel normally halfway round a bend or in the middle of a downhill descent. With stream crossings constructed of railway sleepers with gaps large enough to drop your front tyre through. For all this it was really enjoyable and there was a certain amount of disappointment when we finally reached the main road at Wenns. This is a fantastic part of the countryside with a picture postcard views no matter where you look.
We headed south down the B186 and. after a coffee stop at Poscach, turned towards the first, and highest, of todays passes - Timmeljoch (2509m). The approach to the pass was a fantastic ride with well surfaced roads that became lined with snow as we rode above the snowline.
Beyond the summit we passed into Italy via a 400m tunnel full of potholes that were difficult to see in the dark. At the exit we stopped at a kiosk to admire the view which was astounding.
After a short break we continued down into Italy and a lunch at a local Pizzeria (when in Rome). Suitably fed and watered we headed through the Passo Giovo which led on to our next objective Jaufenpass (2099m). There was a sign that advised the pass was closed but we had not ridden so far to turn back so decided to chance our arm and continue. As it turned out the way was clear and we arrived at the summit without incident only to be joined by our Ducati riding friend that we had met yesterday. We had a chat and found that his name was Kees & he was riding up to Innsbruck to catch the Motorail back to Dusseldorf after 5 days touring the Alps.
He agreed to join us on the next leg of our journey so we saddled up and headed up through the Brenner pass (2165m). This was a bit of a disappointment as it was heavily trafficked even though the through traffic now used the motorway. We passed back into Austria and then said farewell to Kees as we turned to head west towards our final pass of the day - Kuhtai Sattel (2017m). This was a different sort of pass as the approach is up a long valley so you don’t realise that you are so high up until the snow starts to line the sides of the road. Another hazard was the cows and horses that were free to wonder and to leave their residue on the tarmac.
Having completed our last pass we turned our bikes towards the hotel and returned for a well needed shower and dinner. After our meal we headed for the bar to enjoy our last night in the Enzian. After a few drinks Debs & Babs headed off to sleep about 10ish. We said that we would follow shortly but got talking to a group from Kent who had just arrived. Babs had taken the Kitty with her and all our money was in the room so with funds and beer running low we came up with a cunning plan. We let slip that it was Ian’s birthday and they insisted on buying us drinks. Then the barmaid disappeared into the kitchen and appeared a few minutes later with a cake with candles in it. We had a great night and finally got to bed about 2ish.
Friday: 355 miles
We awoke slightly fuzzy in the morning but after a much needed breakfast and coffee we loaded our bikes and started the long journey home. Deb’s cold was now in full flow and we had to stop a couple of times early on as she was sneezing so much she could not ride. She soldiered on though and we soon reached Germany and the boredom of 300 plus miles of autobahn. We made good time and arrived at our overnight stop in Koblenz about 5pm. After booking in we changed and headed off into the town looking for something to eat. The bars in the old town were very busy and the locals unfriendly but we eventually found a Moroccan restaurant which served a very decent mixed grill that was for 2 to share although I think Lee was again unlucky on the plate given to him.
After a few Long Island Teas for some reason Neil felt compelled to advise the proprietor of the establishment how to attract more custom by redecorating the entrance much to the amusement of the rest of us. After the meal we walked to where the Mosel met the Rhine and then called it a day.
Saturday: 502 miles
An early breakfast was called for as a long day stretched before us. We packed, saddled up and looked to head back to the autobahn. A slight delay was caused when Neil got separated from the rest of us but we soon regrouped and began to eat the miles through Germany, Holland, Belgium and France back to the Eurotunnel. Whilst we waited for the train Debs kept herself amused with a little nipple tweeking.
With Debs stimulated again we boarded the train and crossed back into Blighty and using the correct side of the road. Our final stop as a group was at Maidstone services where we had a coffee and bade farewell to Neil & Lee who would be leaving us taking the M11 to the A1.
Ian & Babs returned with Debs & I back to Ecton for a rest stop before completing their trip to Cumbria on Sunday.
In all Debs & I had a great tour and it was made even better by a brilliant set of touring companions. We do intend to return one day as there are plenty more passes to see.
Once again I apologise for the long wait for, and the length of, the trip account but there was a lot to include and I don’t type very quickly. Hope you enjoyed it.
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