Post by ContourMac on Oct 5, 2011 18:22:43 GMT
After a couple of large tours to the French & Austrian alps over the past couple of year Debs, Gaynor, Andy and myself decided that a destination closer to home and lower cost was required. Luxembourg was chosen as a suitable base and a couple of caravans at the Birkelt campsite in Larochette were booked for the last week in September. As this was the Ardennes in autumn and with my reputation as a rain magnet we anxiously checked the long range weather forecast as the date of departure drew near. With a week to go they were advising 12 degrees & showers but as the days counted down this changed to a dry week of 15-17 degrees. So with the bikes serviced and new tyres fitted we packed our waterproofs & readied for the off.
Friday – 450 miles – Weather: Scorchio!!
Gaynor & Andy had travelled down the previous night so we got off to an early start at 7:30 with the intention of catching the 10:40 Eurotunnel. Unfortunately Gaynor was unhappy with a noise from her rear end. After checking we deduced that it was not Andy breaking wind but something a bit more serious (if there is such a thing). A detour to Wollaston BMW established that the bolts holding her rear disc had worked loose and were striking on the drive shaft. This was a worry as none of us had seen Martin anywhere near the bike.
Wollaston BMW Northampton
The bike was soon sorted and we were back on the road at 10:30. We had a bit of a mountain to climb as the check-in at the campsite closed at 8pm and that was 450miles and 4 countries away. Luckily the M1 & M25 roadworks were kind to us and we made the 1:50pm crossing which dropped us in Calais at 3:30pm. The next 300miles were interesting as we “made progress” through France, Belgium and into Luxembourg. I thought we were for it when at just over 160kph I saw a blue light in my mirror but he sailed past. We finally arrived at just after 7:30. The bar was sought and RESULT!! Sensible beer prices with Leffe at €2 a bottle and Hoegarten at €3.50 a pint. Debs made a friend by feeding the cat in the bar a few titbits from her plate. It turned out to be a stray that the barman referred to as a “That cooking fat” (or something similar). We were all cream crackered from the journey so an early night was called after just a few drinks.
Caravans
Saturday – 4 miles – Weather: Grande’ Scorchio!!
We decided that after yesterday a day off the bikes was in order so we took a stroll into Larochette. The campsite is on a hill overlooking the town and the steps down were enough to give any HSE officer a heart attack. On the other side of the valley is a Chateau so we climbed the steps back up and had a wonder round. An exhibition of art was on and all around the ruins were various exhibits including some which we decided commemorated the Hartlepool “Monkey hangers”.
View from the campsite of the Chateau & Town
Hartlepool monkey hangers
Back down the steps and lunch at a cafe in the middle of town. All the cafe menus have a daily special and we all went for the “Jambon & frites” option. It turned out to be a 3 course with soup starter, a main of 3 types of ham, 3 types of melon, side salad and a separate large bowl of fries with a bowl of ice cream for afters. Suitably fed and watered we tackled the steps back to the campsite. It was now 23o in the shade so the climb seemed likekillimongero Kilimongaro K2 but we managed it in the end.
Following a quick trip to the supermarket (with Gaynor as pillion) we were stocked up with supplies so we had burgers and beer courtesy of Chez Imrie in the evening and another great day was complete.
Sunday – 91 miles – Weather: Muchio Scorchio!!
Today after a brekky of ham, cheese, croissants and jam we headed off for a ride into Germany to visit Trier. We had been given cards to activate the barriers at the site entrance but these were tricky to operate with gloves on and not much time was given to get through before the barrier dropped again. Andy was therefore nominated as “BARRIER MAN”. His mission was to stroll through the campsite in full bike gear to operate the gate and let us all through. He did garner a few strange looks from the other camp occupants so this became known as the “Walk of shame”. We headed out and within 4 miles we had found an awesome road that wound through a wooded valley called the Mullerthal. 10 miles of bends that were a delight to ride. We then followed the banks of the Sauer and Mosel rivers into Trier. In the centre we looked at some of the sights...
... and then the girls did a bit of shopping. Debs brought a swimming cossie (no photos
) whilst Gaynor entertained the locals with her balloon mime.
54
We then wondered up to the main square which was decked out with tables and chairs in front to a stage where a full brass band was playing. Around the square stalls was selling bratwurst ½ meter long. 4 were purchased along with beers and Gaynor sorted some seating in her own individual style. The girls enjoyed their meal. They said it was the first time for a long while that they had had nearly 2 foot of sausage inside them.
The band leader rattled off some introduction in German. I only caught 2 words being “Franz Liszt” but with my multi-lingual ability I got the gist of what he was saying. Strangely he didn’t look that drunk. After some thigh slapping music it became too hot to sit in the square any longer so we returned to the bikes and rode back along the opposite banks of the rivers (crossing the Mosel on a small ferry which Garmin thought was a bridge).
We had a short stop at the Potato Festival in Echternach (they know how to party out here!) and then back through the Mullerthal. Just 3 miles short of the campsite we came across a group of bikers where one had joined the “Hedgebusters Club”. The rider seemed OK and there was no evidence of “Cock Waving” so we continued on. That night a Spag-Bol courtesy of Chez Imrie was consumed and washed down with Hoegarten and Leffe.
Monday – 109 miles – Weather: Brrrrr??........ Non........ Scorchio!!
Today we headed northwest towards Belgium and almost instantly we were on the twisties again. However just outside Ettelbruck we encountered a road closed and a “Deviation”. As this alternative route took us onto our return route the Garmin tried to take us back to the campsite. After a bit of “by the stars” navigation we found our original track and continued only to find another “Deviation”. This was easier to navigate around and, after an interesting decent down a very steep single track road we found ourselves back on track. The roads were again immaculate and we rode along the banks of the Sure stopping for a photo stop at a town we can only assume is named after a local hobby
and then on to our destination at Bastogne. All those who have seen “Band of Brothers” will be aware of carnage that occurred here Christmas 1944. Unfortunately the main visitor centre was closed for renovation so we had a walk around the Mardasson Memorial
and then Debs & I walked around the temporary museum in the Town Hall Whilst Andy & Gaynor had a stroll around Bastogne. In the exhibition there is a room that tries to convey the scale of the 40,000 American soldiers that died here. There are only about 30 headstones but all the walls are mirrored so the rows seem to go on forever. It achieves the aim very well in a small area and left a lasting impression on us.
There was also a display of early German farm machinery....
Back on the bikes we headed back into Luxembourg and around the Haute Sure Natural Park. Again the roads and scenery were outstanding. It really is almost impossible to find a bad road here. We were hungry so after seeing a sign we stopped outside a Pizzeria which was part of a hotel. We asked if they were open, which was confirmed. We de-clobbered and headed in only to be advised that it was drinks only – no food until 6pm. Andy was dragged back to the bikes as he advised the owner “ No wonder your chuffing Euro is up the shite if you don’t serve food in a restaurant!”.
We got Mr Grumpy back on the bike and headed off again. More twisties and another “Deviation” and we found a Frites shop. Whilst we sat outside eating our chips the girls had a belching contest much to the amusement of the locals.
Andy tried the pillion of a local machine which looked like it had been left there by the Lincs Ditch Dweller
Another fine road led us to the end of the run (via a supermarket to stock up on beer, wine and food). A BBQ of steak, pork, sausages and something yellow we didn’t recognise, washed down with Rose’ wine and beer, satisfactorily ended another day.
Tuesday – 112 miles – Excellente’ Scorchio!!
Today we headed to Vianden which had been recommended to us by Fiasco. The cobbles on the hill leading to the Chateau caused a few concerns from the ladies but we made it to the top and parked just below the Chateau which reminded me of Colditz (including the Kommandant).
We stashed the helmets in the panniers and had a stroll around the Chateau. We checked out the tapestries and the portraits of Gordy’s relatives.
Back in the town we stopped for some milkshakes in a cafe where we talked Debs into taking the chairlift up to the viewpoint above the town. She reluctantly agreed and bravely endured the ride whilst I endured the pain of her vice-like grip on my leg. The view was worth it though.
After Vianden we continued up the valley and into biker heaven. 90 miles of almost constant sweeping bends and very little traffic. We stopped for the now very familiar ham salad & frites lunch at a micro brewery where samples of the local brew were purchased for consumption later. Later I had an underwear worrying moment whilst trying to reduce my chicken strips. I approached a bridge with a sharp right hander beyond at about 60. As I turned in the bike began to slide badly on the jet black tar chippings that were freshly laid but almost invisible. More by luck than skill I managed to slide the wheels into the tyre tracks and got round the corner and then radio a warning to Debs & Gaynor following behind. At least in the UK the gravel is grey and gives some clue as to a surface change. The rest of the ride went without incident and back at the site we again utilised the BBQ for burgers, kebabs and salad.
Wednesday – 187 miles – Non-Nimbus Scorchio!!
We headed west today for a longer ride into Belgium to a bikers area around the Semois Valley near Bouillon. We had become acclimatised to the almost perfect surfaces in Luxembourg so it was a bit of a shock when the border was crossed and the road condition dropped considerably. We stopped for a snack in Neufchateau before heading on to the valley.
The area is indeed a great place to visit and ride so we did a circuit of the valley and then at 1:05 we stopped at a hotel restaurant that proclaimed itself “Biker Friendly” for lunch. Most of the tables outside were taken with people eating but one was free so we sat down. Andy was remarkably calm when advised by the waiter that food was only served between 12 and 1pm. We had a drink and moved on but it was apparent that nowhere was open to feed us so eventually we headed back to the site for a shower and a stroll into Larochette for a much needed meal.
By the time we left the cafe night had fallen and the prospect of ascending the K2 steps in the dark whilst under the influence was unappealing so we decided to take the long way back by road. Navigating a set of hairpin bends in pitch black with only a mobile phone for light proved to be a bit tricky but we eventually made it to the safety of the caravan for a few beers before bedtime.
Thursday – 0 miles – Far King Scorchio!!
We called a rest to biking today electing instead to head into Luxembourg City by way of public transport so that we did not have to lug jackets & helmets about and also so alcoholic refreshments could be partaken if required. At the campsite reception we enquired as to where to buy tickets and were told that the best way was to ask the bus driver for an All Day Rover which would entitle us to unlimited use of trains and buses within the Luxembourg borders. We were unsure if this would be the best option so asked what the price was and were genuinely stunned when told it was €4 each!! We were even more impressed when the bus arrived on time and the timetable was designed so that it arrived at the station 5 minutes before the train departed. 30 minutes after leaving the campsite we had arrived at our destination. No wonder the roads were empty with this cheap, quality alternative.
Being tourists we did the open-top bus tour of the city and then headed into the old quarter for a spot of lunch at an all you can eat Chinese buffet (I like a challenge!) washed down with a few cold beers. Following this we went down to explore the Casements which are the remaining part of a complex of tunnels 23km long that has been hewn into the rock under the town since the 1600’s. We soon found that this is poorly signposted and consists of a lot of blind alleys and narrow spiral staircases that descend deep into the cliff.
It wasn’t too bad when we were there but in the height of summer with a lot of tourists it could be a nightmare. Eventually we found the exit and, after we had a drink to cool off, we had a short walk to the Royal Palace then headed back to the train. Back at the campsite we had our final holiday dinner in the Restaurant then retired to the caravan for an attempt to reduce our beer stocks before packing.
Friday – 465 miles – Sweaty Scorchio
We were up early as the Camp Obergruppenfuhrer was inspecting the caravans at 0745hrs prior to returning our deposits. All was in order so at 8 “Barrier Man” did his final walk of shame and we headed north for 460 miles of motorway riding. We took it easier than on the way down, stopping twice for a rest but still arrived at Eurotunnel at just after 1230. The hell started here. For some reason both sets of customs were inspecting every vehicle and every passport. We queued in 30 degree heat in full kit for 2 hours just to get through the 2 checkpoints. Finally we got through and eventually boarded the 1420 train. Back in blighty we negotiated the Friday M25/Dartford traffic and got back to Ecton by 5pm. We finished the day and the holiday with a Fish & chip supper in the 3 Horseshoes.
We found Luxembourg to be a brilliant place for bikers and reachable in a day. It may well be the destination of a YDC run in the next couple of years.
Friday – 450 miles – Weather: Scorchio!!
Gaynor & Andy had travelled down the previous night so we got off to an early start at 7:30 with the intention of catching the 10:40 Eurotunnel. Unfortunately Gaynor was unhappy with a noise from her rear end. After checking we deduced that it was not Andy breaking wind but something a bit more serious (if there is such a thing). A detour to Wollaston BMW established that the bolts holding her rear disc had worked loose and were striking on the drive shaft. This was a worry as none of us had seen Martin anywhere near the bike.
Wollaston BMW Northampton
The bike was soon sorted and we were back on the road at 10:30. We had a bit of a mountain to climb as the check-in at the campsite closed at 8pm and that was 450miles and 4 countries away. Luckily the M1 & M25 roadworks were kind to us and we made the 1:50pm crossing which dropped us in Calais at 3:30pm. The next 300miles were interesting as we “made progress” through France, Belgium and into Luxembourg. I thought we were for it when at just over 160kph I saw a blue light in my mirror but he sailed past. We finally arrived at just after 7:30. The bar was sought and RESULT!! Sensible beer prices with Leffe at €2 a bottle and Hoegarten at €3.50 a pint. Debs made a friend by feeding the cat in the bar a few titbits from her plate. It turned out to be a stray that the barman referred to as a “That cooking fat” (or something similar). We were all cream crackered from the journey so an early night was called after just a few drinks.
Caravans
Saturday – 4 miles – Weather: Grande’ Scorchio!!
We decided that after yesterday a day off the bikes was in order so we took a stroll into Larochette. The campsite is on a hill overlooking the town and the steps down were enough to give any HSE officer a heart attack. On the other side of the valley is a Chateau so we climbed the steps back up and had a wonder round. An exhibition of art was on and all around the ruins were various exhibits including some which we decided commemorated the Hartlepool “Monkey hangers”.
View from the campsite of the Chateau & Town
Hartlepool monkey hangers
Back down the steps and lunch at a cafe in the middle of town. All the cafe menus have a daily special and we all went for the “Jambon & frites” option. It turned out to be a 3 course with soup starter, a main of 3 types of ham, 3 types of melon, side salad and a separate large bowl of fries with a bowl of ice cream for afters. Suitably fed and watered we tackled the steps back to the campsite. It was now 23o in the shade so the climb seemed like
Following a quick trip to the supermarket (with Gaynor as pillion) we were stocked up with supplies so we had burgers and beer courtesy of Chez Imrie in the evening and another great day was complete.
Sunday – 91 miles – Weather: Muchio Scorchio!!
Today after a brekky of ham, cheese, croissants and jam we headed off for a ride into Germany to visit Trier. We had been given cards to activate the barriers at the site entrance but these were tricky to operate with gloves on and not much time was given to get through before the barrier dropped again. Andy was therefore nominated as “BARRIER MAN”. His mission was to stroll through the campsite in full bike gear to operate the gate and let us all through. He did garner a few strange looks from the other camp occupants so this became known as the “Walk of shame”. We headed out and within 4 miles we had found an awesome road that wound through a wooded valley called the Mullerthal. 10 miles of bends that were a delight to ride. We then followed the banks of the Sauer and Mosel rivers into Trier. In the centre we looked at some of the sights...
... and then the girls did a bit of shopping. Debs brought a swimming cossie (no photos
) whilst Gaynor entertained the locals with her balloon mime.54
We then wondered up to the main square which was decked out with tables and chairs in front to a stage where a full brass band was playing. Around the square stalls was selling bratwurst ½ meter long. 4 were purchased along with beers and Gaynor sorted some seating in her own individual style. The girls enjoyed their meal. They said it was the first time for a long while that they had had nearly 2 foot of sausage inside them.
The band leader rattled off some introduction in German. I only caught 2 words being “Franz Liszt” but with my multi-lingual ability I got the gist of what he was saying. Strangely he didn’t look that drunk. After some thigh slapping music it became too hot to sit in the square any longer so we returned to the bikes and rode back along the opposite banks of the rivers (crossing the Mosel on a small ferry which Garmin thought was a bridge).
We had a short stop at the Potato Festival in Echternach (they know how to party out here!) and then back through the Mullerthal. Just 3 miles short of the campsite we came across a group of bikers where one had joined the “Hedgebusters Club”. The rider seemed OK and there was no evidence of “Cock Waving” so we continued on. That night a Spag-Bol courtesy of Chez Imrie was consumed and washed down with Hoegarten and Leffe.
Monday – 109 miles – Weather: Brrrrr??........ Non........ Scorchio!!
Today we headed northwest towards Belgium and almost instantly we were on the twisties again. However just outside Ettelbruck we encountered a road closed and a “Deviation”. As this alternative route took us onto our return route the Garmin tried to take us back to the campsite. After a bit of “by the stars” navigation we found our original track and continued only to find another “Deviation”. This was easier to navigate around and, after an interesting decent down a very steep single track road we found ourselves back on track. The roads were again immaculate and we rode along the banks of the Sure stopping for a photo stop at a town we can only assume is named after a local hobby
and then on to our destination at Bastogne. All those who have seen “Band of Brothers” will be aware of carnage that occurred here Christmas 1944. Unfortunately the main visitor centre was closed for renovation so we had a walk around the Mardasson Memorial
and then Debs & I walked around the temporary museum in the Town Hall Whilst Andy & Gaynor had a stroll around Bastogne. In the exhibition there is a room that tries to convey the scale of the 40,000 American soldiers that died here. There are only about 30 headstones but all the walls are mirrored so the rows seem to go on forever. It achieves the aim very well in a small area and left a lasting impression on us.
There was also a display of early German farm machinery....
Back on the bikes we headed back into Luxembourg and around the Haute Sure Natural Park. Again the roads and scenery were outstanding. It really is almost impossible to find a bad road here. We were hungry so after seeing a sign we stopped outside a Pizzeria which was part of a hotel. We asked if they were open, which was confirmed. We de-clobbered and headed in only to be advised that it was drinks only – no food until 6pm. Andy was dragged back to the bikes as he advised the owner “ No wonder your chuffing Euro is up the shite if you don’t serve food in a restaurant!”.
We got Mr Grumpy back on the bike and headed off again. More twisties and another “Deviation” and we found a Frites shop. Whilst we sat outside eating our chips the girls had a belching contest much to the amusement of the locals.
Andy tried the pillion of a local machine which looked like it had been left there by the Lincs Ditch Dweller
Another fine road led us to the end of the run (via a supermarket to stock up on beer, wine and food). A BBQ of steak, pork, sausages and something yellow we didn’t recognise, washed down with Rose’ wine and beer, satisfactorily ended another day.
Tuesday – 112 miles – Excellente’ Scorchio!!
Today we headed to Vianden which had been recommended to us by Fiasco. The cobbles on the hill leading to the Chateau caused a few concerns from the ladies but we made it to the top and parked just below the Chateau which reminded me of Colditz (including the Kommandant).
We stashed the helmets in the panniers and had a stroll around the Chateau. We checked out the tapestries and the portraits of Gordy’s relatives.
Back in the town we stopped for some milkshakes in a cafe where we talked Debs into taking the chairlift up to the viewpoint above the town. She reluctantly agreed and bravely endured the ride whilst I endured the pain of her vice-like grip on my leg. The view was worth it though.
After Vianden we continued up the valley and into biker heaven. 90 miles of almost constant sweeping bends and very little traffic. We stopped for the now very familiar ham salad & frites lunch at a micro brewery where samples of the local brew were purchased for consumption later. Later I had an underwear worrying moment whilst trying to reduce my chicken strips. I approached a bridge with a sharp right hander beyond at about 60. As I turned in the bike began to slide badly on the jet black tar chippings that were freshly laid but almost invisible. More by luck than skill I managed to slide the wheels into the tyre tracks and got round the corner and then radio a warning to Debs & Gaynor following behind. At least in the UK the gravel is grey and gives some clue as to a surface change. The rest of the ride went without incident and back at the site we again utilised the BBQ for burgers, kebabs and salad.
Wednesday – 187 miles – Non-Nimbus Scorchio!!
We headed west today for a longer ride into Belgium to a bikers area around the Semois Valley near Bouillon. We had become acclimatised to the almost perfect surfaces in Luxembourg so it was a bit of a shock when the border was crossed and the road condition dropped considerably. We stopped for a snack in Neufchateau before heading on to the valley.
The area is indeed a great place to visit and ride so we did a circuit of the valley and then at 1:05 we stopped at a hotel restaurant that proclaimed itself “Biker Friendly” for lunch. Most of the tables outside were taken with people eating but one was free so we sat down. Andy was remarkably calm when advised by the waiter that food was only served between 12 and 1pm. We had a drink and moved on but it was apparent that nowhere was open to feed us so eventually we headed back to the site for a shower and a stroll into Larochette for a much needed meal.
By the time we left the cafe night had fallen and the prospect of ascending the K2 steps in the dark whilst under the influence was unappealing so we decided to take the long way back by road. Navigating a set of hairpin bends in pitch black with only a mobile phone for light proved to be a bit tricky but we eventually made it to the safety of the caravan for a few beers before bedtime.
Thursday – 0 miles – Far King Scorchio!!
We called a rest to biking today electing instead to head into Luxembourg City by way of public transport so that we did not have to lug jackets & helmets about and also so alcoholic refreshments could be partaken if required. At the campsite reception we enquired as to where to buy tickets and were told that the best way was to ask the bus driver for an All Day Rover which would entitle us to unlimited use of trains and buses within the Luxembourg borders. We were unsure if this would be the best option so asked what the price was and were genuinely stunned when told it was €4 each!! We were even more impressed when the bus arrived on time and the timetable was designed so that it arrived at the station 5 minutes before the train departed. 30 minutes after leaving the campsite we had arrived at our destination. No wonder the roads were empty with this cheap, quality alternative.
Being tourists we did the open-top bus tour of the city and then headed into the old quarter for a spot of lunch at an all you can eat Chinese buffet (I like a challenge!) washed down with a few cold beers. Following this we went down to explore the Casements which are the remaining part of a complex of tunnels 23km long that has been hewn into the rock under the town since the 1600’s. We soon found that this is poorly signposted and consists of a lot of blind alleys and narrow spiral staircases that descend deep into the cliff.
It wasn’t too bad when we were there but in the height of summer with a lot of tourists it could be a nightmare. Eventually we found the exit and, after we had a drink to cool off, we had a short walk to the Royal Palace then headed back to the train. Back at the campsite we had our final holiday dinner in the Restaurant then retired to the caravan for an attempt to reduce our beer stocks before packing.
Friday – 465 miles – Sweaty Scorchio
We were up early as the Camp Obergruppenfuhrer was inspecting the caravans at 0745hrs prior to returning our deposits. All was in order so at 8 “Barrier Man” did his final walk of shame and we headed north for 460 miles of motorway riding. We took it easier than on the way down, stopping twice for a rest but still arrived at Eurotunnel at just after 1230. The hell started here. For some reason both sets of customs were inspecting every vehicle and every passport. We queued in 30 degree heat in full kit for 2 hours just to get through the 2 checkpoints. Finally we got through and eventually boarded the 1420 train. Back in blighty we negotiated the Friday M25/Dartford traffic and got back to Ecton by 5pm. We finished the day and the holiday with a Fish & chip supper in the 3 Horseshoes.
We found Luxembourg to be a brilliant place for bikers and reachable in a day. It may well be the destination of a YDC run in the next couple of years.
