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Post by Ol' Greasy Dave on Aug 24, 2011 12:53:47 GMT
the easiest way to remove the lower steering head bearing race is to run a few tacks of weld on opposite sides of the race (I use an old arc welder - top amps & a small rod) but you need to be able to weld almost upside down.
The heat loosens the race & the buildup of weld gives you a purchase for a drift inserted from the top.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Aug 24, 2011 13:13:58 GMT
The lower bearings on a D9 are easy, as there is a notch in the tube, its the upper bearing that's a pain to remove.
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Post by Ol' Greasy Dave on Aug 25, 2011 12:48:04 GMT
Did mine a few months ago & had no trouble......difference between late & early models? (mine's a late '94)
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Post by CD on Aug 26, 2011 8:54:25 GMT
Mine's a 97. The top head race is a pig to shift as is the inner on the bottom yoke.
I slotted the bottom race with a grinder, but arc weld would do it. Top race needed a 2ft long steel bar and lump hammer. I took the fairing off in case I missed with the hammer !!!
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Post by Ol' Greasy Dave on Aug 26, 2011 12:43:12 GMT
Try the welder - the heat it puts in frees things up - when I changed brake discs I welded a bit of allen key to each of the bolts......loosened up & all came out easily
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Post by HRHpenfold on Aug 26, 2011 15:42:45 GMT
Try the welder - the heat it puts in frees things up - when I changed brake discs I welded a bit of allen key to each of the bolts......loosened up & all came out easily Actually, what happens is the weld heats the bearing up and expands, as the bearing is a interference fit in the headstock, then it can't expand out, the weld cools and the bearing contracts, but as it is able to contract in the headstock, it becomes loose  |
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Post by CD on Oct 10, 2011 21:11:38 GMT
I didnt have anything to protect the frame etc from weld spatter but its usually the best option.
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