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Post by werner1 on Mar 20, 2007 12:27:30 GMT
Las't week I broke my oil cooler. It was leaking a little oil after my accident in oktober. So last week I tried to solve this . For the moment I have my spare cooler on the bike .  Would this be possible to repair ? gluwing or welding ? There's a crack in the right handsside cap (oil retour) |
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Post by CD on Mar 20, 2007 20:18:45 GMT
Hi Werner,
If I'm seeing it correctly the flare nut is cracked?
I believe oil radiators are made of brass and silver soldered. I believe they don't use ordinary soft solder (as on car radiators) its probably not up to the oil pressure. But a quick clean up on the "welds" should prove that. You could try taking the pipe out and replacing the nut. Alternatively, maybe get a hexagon shaped ring to fit aound the nut and soft solder it on to stop the nut splitting apart.
I think anyone with oxy/acetylene/propane welding equipment should be able to do it, though they will need to be skilled with radiators as too much heat & it could fall apart. But you probably already know that. :-)
Lets hope its only soft soldered then you can try a plumbers gas torch.
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Post by CD on Mar 26, 2007 10:59:21 GMT
Another thought... Maybe you could cut the pipe off leaving a stub. Fit a new nut and soft solder a sleeve over the cut to rejoin it. But who knows where you'd get a spare flare nut. Could you perhaps get the nut oxy/acetylene welded to close the crack.
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Post by General Gman on Mar 26, 2007 11:01:27 GMT
Hi Werner, If I'm seeing it correctly the flare nut is cracked? I believe oil radiators are made of brass and silver soldered. I believe they don't use ordinary soft solder (as on car radiators) its probably not up to the oil pressure. But a quick clean up on the "welds" should prove that. You could try taking the pipe out and replacing the nut. Alternatively, maybe get a hexagon shaped ring to fit aound the nut and soft solder it on to stop the nut splitting apart. I think anyone with oxy/acetylene/propane welding equipment should be able to do it, though they will need to be skilled with radiators as too much heat & it could fall apart. But you probably already know that. :-) Lets hope its only soft soldered then you can try a plumbers gas torch. Hmm.... these can be repaired fairly easily by any place that does car rads. The oil pressure thing isn't necessarily an issue - pumped pressure on a divvy is fairly low with it being air-cooled with an oil cooler rather than oil-cooled ( cue TDM......). If you're handy at brazing stuff, you could easily bang a new nut on there.don't bother with araldite, JB weld or owt - they don't work on those bad boys - believe me I tried.In the end, I bought a GSX750 oil cooler off ebay for a pittance and bodged it on.Threads were slightly finer, but cut a new thread with the banjo bolts and it never leaked. Obviously don't recommend doing that, but it worked for me ;D |
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Post by CD on Mar 26, 2007 21:36:18 GMT
You might be able to bodge it with a jubillee clip (worn drive) around the nut.
It could be a nice excuse to fit a larger oil cooler with a thermostatic bypass flow control.
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Post by werner1 on Mar 27, 2007 9:27:25 GMT
I changed it with a spare I had lying around  But it still looks to good to toss away  Maybe loctide or some chemical weld ? |
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Post by General Gman on Mar 27, 2007 10:31:58 GMT
I changed it with a spare I had lying around But it still looks to good to toss away Maybe loctide or some chemical weld ? Tried both of those on the one I had - couldn't get em to work. because the crack runs through the thread, you can never repair it well enough. |
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Post by werner1 on Mar 27, 2007 11:09:21 GMT
And, if I make (let make) a nut which fits in the original thread and on the other side has an inner thread simular as the banjo-pin, and I gluw that one in with green locktide ? Mmmmm..., that might work  To the drawing board .... ;D |
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Post by jeepster1 on Mar 27, 2007 11:11:32 GMT
How's about cutting it off and braising a new fitting on?
I've never been any good at but the pros can do a good job.
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Post by CD on Mar 27, 2007 15:52:55 GMT
Can you screw the nut onto the original bolt and get the crack welded with oxy-acetylene. If screwed on gently the threads should align and the welder can merge the metal together at the crack. It can't be an ideal weld as going right through would mess up the threads, but should be strong enough.
If its not possible to weld the nut or unsolder the pipe stub, a properly engineered split nut could work. 2 halves clamped together with countersunk socket head screws and loctite. The issue then is getting the old nut off without damaging the flared end of the pipe.
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