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Post by tyer0667 on Dec 27, 2010 11:32:34 GMT
Hello, just wondering if anyone can give me some advice, lately when ive been starting the bike it takes a long tine to start when cold like the other day i had to put a jump start on with the battery as it took about 10 to 15 minutes of constant pushing starter button, it was turning but not firing up and when i finaly got it started it was only running on 3&4 cylinder until about 3minutes of running than 2 cylinder kicked in and after about another 2 to 3 minutes 1 cylinder fired up, just wondering wheather or not it could be a problem with coils.
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Post by peteff on Dec 27, 2010 13:56:35 GMT
I did one with a similar problem. I bought a set of carbs and used the jets from them and also new internals for the petrol tap as the diaphragm had gone in it. I fitted some hotter plugs as well and when starting it needed turning to prime every time which is probably wrong but it never failed after that. I found it did need a while to warm up on the speeded up tick over.
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Post by stevie16v on Jan 7, 2011 23:42:14 GMT
Try setting it to prime whilst you're doing it, Dont hold the starter button for more than 5-10secs. They seem to flood fairly easy. Could be your battery isnt quite pushing out enough power aswell  |
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Post by amorti on Jan 10, 2011 9:39:35 GMT
Hello, just wondering if anyone can give me some advice, lately when ive been starting the bike it takes a long tine to start when cold like the other day i had to put a jump start on with the battery as it took about 10 to 15 minutes of constant pushing starter button, it was turning but not firing up and when i finaly got it started it was only running on 3&4 cylinder until about 3minutes of running than 2 cylinder kicked in and after about another 2 to 3 minutes 1 cylinder fired up, just wondering wheather or not it could be a problem with coils. As noted above - you need a new battery. If you have a weak battery it will spin the motor but won't also have enough power to give a strong spark. Short-term fix - Spin the starter then release the button and try to catch the engine in that split second, but you will need a new battery now or v soon. |
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Post by bobh on Jan 10, 2011 17:52:38 GMT
Sorry to disagree, but if the battery will spin the engine easily for any length of time it should also be capable of giving a decent spark.
The fact that it eventually chimed on all four tells me it's most likely to be fuel-related - a combination of no petrol in the carbs to start with (hence Stevie16v's advice to set the tap to "prime"), plus very likely some gungy residue in the carbs. Stripping the float chambers and blowing out the jets should help, though you might get away with putting some isopropyl alcohol additive in the petrol and running that through for a while.
Whenever a carburetted (as opposed to an injected) bike is going to be idle for more than a couple of weeks it's best to drain the float chambers down. Or use top-quality fuel, e.g. Shell V-
power, which is much cleaner.
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Post by teejayexc on Jan 10, 2011 18:12:49 GMT
Whenever a carburetted (as opposed to an injected) bike is going to be idle for more than a couple of weeks it's best to drain the float chambers down. Or use top-quality fuel, e.g. Shell V- power, which is much cleaner. Can you give a definitive answer as to why Shell V is better ? |
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Post by m40man on Jan 10, 2011 18:20:45 GMT
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Post by bobh on Jan 10, 2011 22:08:50 GMT
Whenever a carburetted (as opposed to an injected) bike is going to be idle for more than a couple of weeks it's best to drain the float chambers down. Or use top-quality fuel, e.g. Shell V- power, which is much cleaner. Can you give a definitive answer as to why Shell V is better ? Don't know the technical reason, but the proof is in the pudding, or rather in the Thundercat, which started up first time and ran sweetly from the off yesterday, after nearly 2 months inactivity. Its last fill was either V-Power or the BP equivalent, can't remember which. If it had been full of ordinary 95 octane I'd bet it would have taken several miles to run properly; or worse still, needed the pilot jets cleaning (a pig of a job, even though I've now changed the float chambers to Allen screws from the original cheese x-heads). |
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Post by amorti on Jan 11, 2011 13:48:20 GMT
Sorry to disagree, but if the battery will spin the engine easily for any length of time it should also be capable of giving a decent spark. The fact that it eventually chimed on all four tells me it's most likely to be fuel-related - a combination of no petrol in the carbs to start with (hence Stevie16v's advice to set the tap to "prime"), plus very likely some gungy residue in the carbs. Stripping the float chambers and blowing out the jets should help, though you might get away with putting some isopropyl alcohol additive in the petrol and running that through for a while. Whenever a carburetted (as opposed to an injected) bike is going to be idle for more than a couple of weeks it's best to drain the float chambers down. Or use top-quality fuel, e.g. Shell V- power, which is much cleaner. Sorry mate, I disagree with nearly everything you've written here. A weak battery will often spin a motor over for quite a while, but the voltage drops so much that it won't have power for the starter and the spark at the same time. This applies even if you pull the spark plug and see a visible spark, it is often not enough under combustion chamber pressures. This is why many vehicles will spin over slowly for as long as until they won't spin at all, but go first time when given a jump start. The fact it chimed in on all four tells you that the fuel is fine, and the bike will run on it once it gets started. Doesn't tell you whether or not the floats may have been empty (vacuum fuel pump?) though. The jets are also clearly fine, as it will idle on 4. Draining the float chambers is a good idea but most folk don't and it shouldn't be a problem unless you're talking 2 months, not 2 weeks. V-power is a waste of money for anything except those high-tuned cars which need to have it as their ignition advances are set very aggressively such that they would knock on regular pump fuel. You would have to be off your rocker to put it in something like a divvy. Your bike would have started on whatever was left in it after only two months, as long as the battery was healthy enough to get it going. Needing to clean the jets out would happen whatever fuel you left in the carbs, but since you don't leave any in them, that's why it wasn't a problem. |
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Post by teejayexc on Jan 11, 2011 18:20:22 GMT
So that's you told Bob  |
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Post by bobh on Jan 11, 2011 18:31:47 GMT
OK, we'll agree to disagree on the battery thing, though I took it from the original post that it DIDN'T go first time when it was jumped - maybe I misread it.
But the example I gave was a bike that DIDN'T have the float chambers drained but still started first time AND RAN CLEANLY after standing for nearly two months. In the past, with ordinary 95-octane, it's started on the choke but refused to run properly, and I've found the pilot jets to be blocked with a sort of gel-like residue.
Of course V-Power is not going to give any power advantage, but I reckon that an extra quid or so on a fill-up is worth it for the lack of hassle when I want to use the bike again. And certainly a lot cheaper than petrol additive.
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Post by amorti on Jan 12, 2011 10:55:28 GMT
OK, we'll agree to disagree on the battery thing, though I took it from the original post that it DIDN'T go first time when it was jumped - maybe I misread it. But the example I gave was a bike that DIDN'T have the float chambers drained but still started first time AND RAN CLEANLY after standing for nearly two months. In the past, with ordinary 95-octane, it's started on the choke but refused to run properly, and I've found the pilot jets to be blocked with a sort of gel-like residue. Of course V-Power is not going to give any power advantage, but I reckon that an extra quid or so on a fill-up is worth it for the lack of hassle when I want to use the bike again. And certainly a lot cheaper than petrol additive. Again we'll agree to disagree. If you're one of those bikers who put 2,000 a year on a shiny sportsbike, then using optimax will cost you about £10 a year, if you use your bike regularly (as most Divvy owners do) then it'll cost you quite a lot more than that. Still, it's your money, and if you think the snake oil added to make 95>99 is worth it, then knock yourself out. |
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Post by General Gman on Jan 12, 2011 11:32:18 GMT
TBH, this looks like the common problem with the vacuum fuel feed.Jools' bike is exactly the same - needs to be turned over for ever before it'll start if left for more than a couple of days and then will only start on 2 or 3 cylinders initially.
If the battery turns the motor strongly, then it's unlikely to be the battery IMO.If the battery is healthy enough to with stand repeated starting attempts for 10 to 15 minutes, then it'll be man enough to provide a good fat spark.
Yes, you can pull a plug, see a spark but not get a strong enough spark under pressure but that wasn't mentioned .... and is often down to a bad earth rather than anything else.
In fact V-power *has* been proved to give a very slight increase in power on a bike which doesn't have the necessary sensor / electronics package to alter the ignition timing.I don't use any of the *premium* fuels because a) I'm a miser and b) I can't actually feel any difference in performance - this doesn't mean they don't have an effect
Some on here swear by the stuff, and report eniough of an increase in MPG to more than offset the extra cost of the fuel.
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