|
|
Post by ironbloke on Jun 7, 2010 12:55:13 GMT
Can anyone help? Following the various excellent suggestions on this site I have decided to bypass my leaky oil cooler with a meter of oil hose. I have asked Goodridge about the project and they say it can be done but they need the "the thread of the bolts". Any idea what this is measured in? Is it number of turns per inch or distance between ridges? If this proves too difficult I'm going for the hoseworld and clamp option which sounds effective in any case. Thanks  |
|
|
|
Post by teejayexc on Jun 7, 2010 13:20:13 GMT
Can anyone help? Following the various excellent suggestions on this site I have decided to bypass my leaky oil cooler with a meter of oil hose. I have asked Goodridge about the project and they say it can be done but they need the "the thread of the bolts". Any idea what this is measured in? Is it number of turns per inch or distance between ridges? If this proves too difficult I'm going for the hoseworld and clamp option which sounds effective in any case. Thanks Just do away with the lot. You'll need a shorter bolt that the oil filter screws onto (if you're brave enough you can cut the old one), then get rid off the adaptor plate (small circular plate behind the oil filter that the pipes fasten too), do away with the pipes and the cooler full stop. |
|
|
|
Post by ironbloke on Jun 7, 2010 16:14:34 GMT
Thanks teejayexc - I suspect that would be the neatest option but I have a history of mechanical incompetence so need the simplest solution to get the bike back on the road by next week. I thought the outflow pipe was leaking and had it bodged for £5 by a local garage. Three weeks later it was leaking again so having booked an MOT at Fowler's of Bristol asked that they replace the offending pipe. Little did I know the pipe would cost £91  Worse than that after fitting the pipe they told me the tiny leak was now a massive leak from the cooler! Replacement cooler would cost me £350 (but they would do me a deal and knock 20% off). So I went from a manageable drip to a soaking left leg in 7 miles and £127! Couldn't afford to spend anymore reddies so I now have a very expensive in tact outflow pipe (near side), a very leaky cooler and now can't use the bike. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a used cooler (saw one on eBay for £99 but still too expensive) and in the mean time want a simple bodge to keep me on the road. Ah the joys of biking. Thanks again |
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jun 7, 2010 16:52:36 GMT
You can loop the inlet and outlet pipes together with the hose using jubillee clips. 30cm should be more than enough hose.
TBH, removing the filter mount is the easiest way to go.
|
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Jun 8, 2010 9:50:18 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by ironbloke on Jun 28, 2010 21:37:50 GMT
Decided to bite the bullet and took a hack saw to the top of the oil pipes. Oil cooler removed and pipe from hoseworld attached with jubilee clips. Short ride-out and a quick tighten and all's well. Went for a thrash to Cheddar and back in the heat on Saturday and no ill effects. I'd post photos of the before and after but I'm a computer biff so can't. I have put some photos on FB. www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=187301&id=618830652&l=621fc895b0 |
|
|
|
Post by newell on Jun 29, 2010 11:05:47 GMT
Well done! I agree with others and reckon the best option is to remove the whole lot. But if you are not sure or are not confident you can do it then yours is the best Plan B.
You'll be ok without it. It's only an old air-cooled 8 valve 600 four. The air temperatures we have been getting lately we don't get very often. Just remember when we do get them not to let the engine sit ticking over too long. Yamaha fitted the oil cooler for a reason.
|
|
|
|
Post by boozeman on Apr 2, 2011 13:30:34 GMT
Decided to bite the bullet and took a hack saw to the top of the oil pipes. Oil cooler removed and pipe from hoseworld attached with jubilee clips. Short ride-out and a quick tighten and all's well. Went for a thrash to Cheddar and back in the heat on Saturday and no ill effects. I'd post photos of the before and after but I'm a computer biff so can't. I have put some photos on FB. www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=187301&id=618830652&l=621fc895b0I post quite often on the 'other' Diversion site and this may be my first on this one. I recently removed the oil cooler from my '97 600N (the whole shabang). This resulted in a lot more vibration generally at the usual 4,000 rpm and the bike definitely is running hotter. The intake rubbers look degraded so I've just ordered replacements. I need to check the shims and balance the carbs. That done I'm hoping the bike will be happy without the cooler, but if not I'll repair the cooler pipes and refit it. I'm just interested as to how people have got on with their bike after performing a 'cooler-rectomy', or am I theonly to find problems? Boozeman |
|
|
|
Post by cam7777 on Apr 2, 2011 17:15:44 GMT
I recently removed the oil cooler from my '97 600N (the whole shabang). This resulted in a lot more vibration generally at the usual 4,000 rpm I fail to see why removing the oil cooler would result in a lot more vibration  |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Apr 4, 2011 10:14:49 GMT
It has since been brought up that the earlier Divvy is jetted richer (haven't confirmed this myself) and so should run cooler than the later model with oil cooler. So Yam's reason for fitting a cooler to the later model was that it became necessary to additionally cool the oil, as the bike had to be run leaner to meet EU emissions regulations. So I will stand corrected and say that the best thing is NOT to remove the oil cooler, because the older bike without an oil cooler is NOT a direct equivalent. So either remove the oil cooler and change the jetting to match the previous spec, or repair the oil cooler where possible. Or just remove it - but that would constitute bodging  |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2011 10:35:26 GMT
So either remove the oil cooler and change the jetting to match the previous spec, or repair the oil cooler where possible. Or just remove it - but that would constitute bodging I think you've got it at last. Removing it is indeed a bodge. Your other two options are mods/repairs. |
|
|
|
Post by boozeman on Apr 4, 2011 18:40:27 GMT
It has since been brought up that the earlier Divvy is jetted richer (haven't confirmed this myself) and so should run cooler than the later model with oil cooler. So Yam's reason for fitting a cooler to the later model was that it became necessary to additionally cool the oil, as the bike had to be run leaner to meet EU emissions regulations. So I will stand corrected and say that the best thing is NOT to remove the oil cooler, because the older bike without an oil cooler is NOT a direct equivalent. So either remove the oil cooler and change the jetting to match the previous spec, or repair the oil cooler where possible. Or just remove it - but that would constitute bodging Yer cheeky monkey Amorti!...it was me that posted about the EU emissions on the 'other' forum! why I oughta..... Boozeman
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2011 18:49:12 GMT
It has since been brought up that the earlier Divvy is jetted richer (haven't confirmed this myself) and so should run cooler than the later model with oil cooler. So Yam's reason for fitting a cooler to the later model was that it became necessary to additionally cool the oil, as the bike had to be run leaner to meet EU emissions regulations. So I will stand corrected and say that the best thing is NOT to remove the oil cooler, because the older bike without an oil cooler is NOT a direct equivalent. So either remove the oil cooler and change the jetting to match the previous spec, or repair the oil cooler where possible. Or just remove it - but that would constitute bodging Yer cheeky monkey Amorti!...it was me that posted about the EU emissions on the 'other' forum! why I oughta..... Boozeman Oh no, he's a bodger and a Plagiarist.  Just when I was beginning to think he might actually know something. ;D |
|
|
|
Post by amorti on Apr 5, 2011 8:16:15 GMT
It has since been brought up that the earlier Divvy is jetted richer (haven't confirmed this myself) and so should run cooler than the later model with oil cooler. So Yam's reason for fitting a cooler to the later model was that it became necessary to additionally cool the oil, as the bike had to be run leaner to meet EU emissions regulations. So I will stand corrected and say that the best thing is NOT to remove the oil cooler, because the older bike without an oil cooler is NOT a direct equivalent. So either remove the oil cooler and change the jetting to match the previous spec, or repair the oil cooler where possible. Or just remove it - but that would constitute bodging Yer cheeky monkey Amorti!...it was me that posted about the EU emissions on the 'other' forum! why I oughta..... Boozeman True story, it was Boozeman that pointed it out. :notworthy: |
|
|
|
Post by boozeman on Apr 5, 2011 18:39:14 GMT
I must point out here that I am assuming the new carbs on the '96 onwards were tuned leaner. My Haynes appears to imply so much...
Boozeman
|
|
|
|
Post by boozeman on Apr 10, 2011 8:54:02 GMT
Changed the intake rubbers saturday. All four were cracked - but did not look cracked internally to the naked eye. Was not too difficult a job - took a bit of time to ease the carbs out and then release the rubbers from the engine manifolds. Had to rock the carbs backwards and forwards and then resorted to teasing them off with a large flathead screwdriver (being careful not to scratch the manifold edges and the carb out-port edges). Cleaned everything up then slipped the new rubbers in place (fitted the retaining jubilee clips on to the rubbers first).
Long and the short? Bike runs pretty good without the cooler ! I took the bike out for a shakedown at speeds varying from 50mph in top gear (4,000 rpm) up to 80mph. Seems to run as good as when the cooler was fitted. Definitely needed the new rubbers - was obviously sucking air in through the cracks in the rubbers and leaning the mixture and over-heating. Will need to refit the CR8E's though - I think the CR9E's are misfiring on idle (some tell-tale noises when I listened carefully). Will pull the plugs tomorrow and check them out - bet I find evidence of fouling). Still planning to re-fit cooler though...
Boozeman
|
|
|
|
Post by stukeith on Jul 1, 2015 12:55:49 GMT
where it gone lol?
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 8, 2015 18:11:10 GMT
Check out my posts on fitting a PWR transmission oil cooler to the 900. I used flouro lined silicone hose 90 degree bends and 10mm copper tubes. Also needed special brackets and some faffing about to be sure the front wheel had space to compress and steering to turn.
More normal style fat block oil coolers might fit but space under the petrol tank is restricted. They also need special pipe fittings. The PWR comes with hose barb pipes.
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 8, 2015 18:13:06 GMT
The bike felt no different with or without oil cooler. Though I suspect it ran a little cooler with its new PWR. The fin area was much the same but bolted under the front frame it got better airflow.
|
|
|
|
Post by kwickkwack on Sept 8, 2015 11:57:17 GMT
I removed my cooler completely last year and have done about 4000 miles since and the only thing i have found different is my mpg has gone up to between 65-70 mpg
|
|
|
|
Post by stukeith on Sept 9, 2015 9:40:31 GMT
I've got half a unit I can sell if anyone needs it? I have the bolt, cooler and right hand hose (as sat on bike)
|
|
Worse than that after fitting the pipe they told me the tiny leak was now a massive leak from the cooler! Replacement cooler would cost me £350 (but they would do me a deal and knock 20% off). So I went from a manageable drip to a soaking left leg in 7 miles and £127!
Just when I was beginning to think he might actually know something. ;D