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Post by Swim41 on May 9, 2010 17:47:51 GMT
Installed new pads today, and decided to change the rear fluid too. Big mistake. One of the nipples has sheared off. The other will probably do the same. Had no problems when I did the front last year.
Now, is there anything I can do without buying a new caliper? I notice that union bolts with integral nipples are available for this kind of application however, due to the design of the caliper with two seperate bleed nipples I am wondering if this will work.
Luckily since I have now got my 125 to get to work on this is not an urgent fix, but I would like to sort it.
Any ideas?
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 9, 2010 19:19:34 GMT
Installed new pads today, and decided to change the rear fluid too. Big mistake. One of the nipples has sheared off. The other will probably do the same. Had no problems when I did the front last year. Now, is there anything I can do without buying a new caliper? I notice that union bolts with integral nipples are available for this kind of application however, due to the design of the caliper with two seperate bleed nipples I am wondering if this will work. Luckily since I have now got my 125 to get to work on this is not an urgent fix, but I would like to sort it. Any ideas? drill them out! use a 6mm drill, its easy as there is a hole in the center, drill it like squarely and fast to start with, but as it gets down, slowly does it, untill the fluid starts to leak out, then the remains should pick out, new nipple and it will be fine. managed to do this to both nipples on my fj1200  |
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Post by CD on May 9, 2010 19:32:41 GMT
I tried drilling one out but the slightest knick on the seat and it wont ever seal again.
If you can do without the caliper for a while take out the seals, chuck it in the oven at 200 degs for an hour or two then (when cold) drop it into some diesel oil for a week or two. The snapped nipple(s) should easy out
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Post by teejayexc on May 9, 2010 19:52:37 GMT
I tried drilling one out but the slightest knick on the seat and it wont ever seal again. If you can do without the caliper for a while take out the seals, chuck it in the oven at 200 degs for an hour or two then (when cold) drop it into some diesel oil for a week or two. The snapped nipple(s) should easy out Is that gas mark 2 or 3 , and does he turn it over half way through cooking? Who's gonna clean the oven of boiled brake fluid too? Not one of yer best, CD  |
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Post by ContourMac on May 9, 2010 20:05:30 GMT
If you do attempt to drill them out use a LH drill bit. Then the nipple can unscrew as you drill.
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Post by Swim41 on May 9, 2010 21:02:58 GMT
My only issue with drilling is that if it goes err... bosoms up I will then be left with a leaking and useless caliper. The banjo below looks interesting, but it seems like it requires some faffing about to get it to work correctly. Still, if it works though! What do we think?  |
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Post by CD on May 10, 2010 13:47:01 GMT
I tried drilling one out but the slightest knick on the seat and it wont ever seal again. If you can do without the caliper for a while take out the seals, chuck it in the oven at 200 degs for an hour or two then (when cold) drop it into some diesel oil for a week or two. The snapped nipple(s) should easy out Is that gas mark 2 or 3 , and does he turn it over half way through cooking? Who's gonna clean the oven of boiled brake fluid too? Not one of yer best, CD Oh ye of conventional thought. ;D It works fine. The caliper has to be stripped and split (there are seals in there too) so there is no brake fluid to mess up the oven. But it does pong a bit from burning paint. !!! 200C is the electric setting probably gas mark 9. A blow lamp also works but many folks don't know when to stop and overdo it. 200C is enough. When done wire brush the metal and repaint or stove enamel it. |
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Post by amorti on May 25, 2010 9:57:01 GMT
Is it still sealed and bled? Then leave it alone! Drilling out is near-impossible, as you have to get steel out of alloy without touching the bottom or the thread. Good luck with that. One other user found that if you get the hose and pads with it, you can use a thundercat rear caliper. If it's not sealing, you can still bleed the caliper through one bleed nipple (I am sure of this ) But that only helps if the other one is OK. This is a lesson to always always keep a rubber cover on bleed nipples. Water gets in, they rust inside, and they shear. The bleed nipple banjo bolts are also handy, I used one on my old CB-1. They are just fine, there is no faffing involved. They are of course only useful if your old bleed nipple sheared and is still sealing. |
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