General - Does this looks right to you?

[mattias]

Does this looks right to you? + mods advice

I am about to buy this bike. Its 93 year bike. Does it looks ok to you (all parts form the same model?, no enigne transplant?)
I am still on my L plates. I will be taking my test in 2 -3 months so plenty of time to restore this bike.

I am bandit crazy, but I think XJ600 will make a better 1st big(restricted) bike.

I think i will painting it black or electric blue.
Maybe streetfighter it by changing the nose cone for twin headlamps
cgi.ebay.co.uk/Streetfighter-twin-headlamps_W0QQitemZ170471454901QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item27b0e3f8b5
New clocks? Would clocks from later N model or a bandit fit and work?
Belly pan? has anyone here fitted a belly pan to D6?

And the most important the exhaust, any recomendations?

[vincentmoy]

That looks about right.

[neilmud Lord Protector]

Where is the seat??

Neil

[mattias]

I know the seat is ugly (but waterproof).
I am going to replace the cover material with a black leather... or buy a new seat.

[HRHpenfold]

nice bike, engine looks like its later than 93 though, probably a good thing

keep the seatcover, I think it looks fab

[bobh]

Just a thought, before you paint it - if you're thinking of moving on to a Bandit and selling the Diversion in the not too distant future, think about keeping it as standard as possible otherwise you'll take a hit on the price you get for it.

And, like HRH, I think the seat cover looks fab - but then we probably both date back to the time when that word was coined (short for "Fablon", isn't it?).

As to streetfightering it, there was a beauty on here recently which could give you some ideas. That one used a rather neat digital dash, rather than the analogue N clocks (which are as rare as rocking horse poo anyway, and are priced accordingly). So before spending loadsamoney on it, remember it's still only a Divvy (and none the worse for that).

[mattias]

If you came closer to the motorbike you would see that the cover looks pish. It only looks good from 10 meters or more But if you really like it we can swap seats.
Anyone want to swap seats?


I gave the bike good clean today.
I discovered some broken, not working and worring bits.
I dont have manual yet. I will make a new thead, list it all, add pics and vids so you can see and advice me.

BTW: Does Haynes manual explains how to remove the engine? I will have to remove it to paint the frame. How heavy is the engine itself (with oil)?

[vincentmoy]

Apr 20, 2010 15:15:30 GMT mattias said:

If you came closer to the motorbike you would see that the cover looks pish. It only looks good from 10 meters or more But if you really like it we can swap seats.
Anyone want to swap seats?


I gave the bike good clean today.
I discovered some broken, not working and worring bits.
I dont have manual yet. I will make a new thead, list it all, add pics and vids so you can see and advice me.

BTW: Does Haynes manual explains how to remove the engine? I will have to remove it to paint the frame. How heavy is the engine itself (with oil)?

PM you on the manual

[mattias]

Thanks, there is a link to my new thread diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=600&action=display&thread=10809

[mattias]

Do I need a new Shock for the MOT?
I know they check the suspension, not sure if it matters if its rusty

[CD]

A well restored 600 with fairing will sell much better than a street fightered bike. Many people will assume its been badly crashed and most folks like the fairing. The Divvie 600 with its narrow back wheel and limited options for exhausts isnt really a good candidate.

Chances are the shock will need replacing, but as long as it does bouncy things without pogoing up & down it will pass the MOT. On the good side you have a braided brake hose.

When you have the frame done, seriously consider getting it stoved and then painted over that. I use CJ Ward of Burton on Trent who do lots of bike resto jobs. They tell me the paint will be 10x more durable with stove enamel underneath. The coating is tough but more importantly the hot oven dries out any rust specks so it cant come back under the paint.

Before you shell out on elbow grease and paint check them out.

CJ Ward
Dallow House
Dallow Street,
Burton on Trent,
Staffordshire DE14 2PQ
01283 536135

They also stove enamel bike wheels for £25 each and for another £25 can get the rim sides/edges polished.

The best way to remove the engine is to drain the oil, loosen the mounting bolts, then lie the bike on its side and chock the engine. Remove the bolts and lift the frame off the engine. The bare frame is much lighter than the engine.

You can also use the same system to finish the engine covers. I had my Divvie 900 rocker cover and engine crank covers all done for £30. That was fully stripped, bead blasted and stoved in battleship grey. Eventually I'm having the rear swing arm, fork lowers and top yoke done in the same colour.

Stoving or powder coating is also good for rear brake and gear levers and even for brake calipers.

On my 900 I welded some brackets to the upper frame to take crash bungs. They are hidden under the fairing so dont spoil the bike. When it does fall over, they stop the fairing getting smashed.

[mattias]

On my 900 I welded some brackets to the upper frame to take crash bungs. They are hidden under the fairing so dont spoil the bike. When it does fall over, they stop the fairing getting smashed.

Thats interesting, could you upload some pictures?

[CD]

Its on here

diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=900&action=display&thread=7099

It took a lot of time carefully cutting the metal plates. Cut 10x and weld once. Dont forget to disconnect the gennie, the battery and the sparks igniter box. Belts and braces with electronics and welding currents.
If doing it again I would put the bung brackets under the fairing mounts as the dimples are already there, so no need to hole saw the fairing. I was getting over concerned about the crash bungs dinging the frame in a crash, but 2" back would make next to no difference.

The strongest point was further back where there is a frame cross tube, but the bungs would have hit my knees and probably not protect the fairing.

[mattias]

That looks good
I think I wont mess with the frame. As I may streetfight it in the future.
If I put the crash bungs on It I would put them where thefairing mount is. I will place a long bolt and put some rubber washer in between the existing bracket and the washer (to it wont brake or bend if I drop the bike)

Attachments:

[CD]

The 900 is similar, but that bracket is nowhere near strong enough and washers or pads underneath would just dent the frame and still smash the fairing.

My brackets are big to spread the impact load and would need to be much the same on the 600.

A better option would be brackets on the engine, especially if they could absorb the shock by bending. But I could find nowhere on the cylinder head that could take a bracket without (1) looking ugly or (2) doing even more damage to the engine if it gets whacked.

Later bikes (e.g. Bandit) have engine mounts on the cyl head - ideal for crash bungs. The Divvie isnt so conveniently kitted out.

[mattias]

I have some good engine progtector bars and long hande bar ends.
When the bike its on its side it touches the ground with the hande bar, engine protector and the exhaust.

I think I will have to sort out some long bobins to place under end cans.
Any idea how to assemble them?