Post by ContourMac on Sept 25, 2009 20:16:32 GMT
Due to the recent clamour on the site for details of our recent excursion to France here is the heavily edited tale of the trip.
It was on Normandy 2008 that the idea of a French tour was first muted. It was decided that a full blown club run would be unmanageable so it would be kept to the parties sat around the table. These being Mac & Debs, Andy & Gaynor, Ian & Babs, Ade & Mandy and the Beebs brothers. Dates & rough details were finalized at the Lakes run. Unfortunately Ade & Mandy had to drop out so it was 8 adventurers that finally met on a fine, if very windy, Friday morning in August at Scoffers café on the A45 outside Northampton.
Friday: Northampton – Douai. 240miles
Before we got out of the café car park we had a problem. Beeb’s Satnav (a “quality” alternative to the Zumo or Rider) decided that it was in Mongolia and no amount of persuasion was going to change it’s mind. It was therefore consigned to the pannier and we headed off via the the old A45 through Kimbolton and St Neots to the M11. Then down to the chunnel. It was heavy going in the wind and somewhat reminiscent of the trip down the M6 after JR08. When we emerged in France it was a quick blat down the N23 to Douai. Andy had been nominated “Peage B*tch”. When approaching a toll Gaynor took the lead and Andy would pay for each of us as we passed through out of the communial kitty (which all meals, drinks and tolls were paid out of). This helped speed up tolls no end.
We were booked in the Ibis in Douai town center. The receptionist did not speak english, yam-yam or scouse but was instantly impressed by Gaynor who translated “are there eggs for breakfast” into squatting and flapping arms whilst clucking and straining. At dinner an Italian taught us the language essentials – maison vin rouge / maison vin blanc.
Saturday: Douai-Neufchateau. 223miles
The buffet breakfast consisted of Ham, Cheese and Pastries (no eggs) We ate half and nicked the rest for a packed lunch later. Outside the hotel a market was set up so we added a couple of cooked chickens to our stash.
Gaynor blows up her front tyre ready for the off
We hadn’t got 2 miles before Ian & Babs had an off. The car in front stopped in their lane and whilst overtaking they caught the edge of the raised bus lane which through them off. Ian’s reflexes were catlike however and he managed to avoid the bike falling on him by throwing it onto Babs who did not fair so well, hurting her foot. She declined all suggestions to go to the hospital and we continued on our way. We avoided motorways and headed for the Meuse valley. We ate our pilfered goods and chicken on a village green
Beebs still has a lot to learn about sharing a chicken
Heading down the valley we stopped in Verdun to:
Pass wind
Honour the past
And enter into Role Playing.
At the hotel in Neufchateau. The Beebs Brothers found that when they took over Ade’s room booking (they were originally camping) they had neglected to change it from a twin to a double (so they would be camping after all ;D). Paul was annoyed. Andy was somewhat subdued but was insisting on more pillows in the room. Still they put a brave face on it and dressed for an evening on the pull:
Strangely they were unlucky
Sunday: Neufchateau-Evian. 236 miles
More ham and cheese for breakfast (and our panniers!) and once Beebs had checked his hand for blisters we set off.
We continued south down the Meuse valley then through the Loue valley on the D67 before heading into Switzerland (via the unattended customs post) and into the Alps.
We had not paid for a Swiss Motorway Vignette at £27 each so kept to the A-roads and they were stunning. Sweeping bends, hairpins and breathtaking scenery. We managed to get separated in Montreux but not for long and after finding each other again we rode round the Lake Geneva coast road before re-entering France and stopping for the night at Evian. Debs unfortunately dropped her bike on the gravel in the hotel carpark but no real damage was done.
Freddie Mercury statue in Montreux
Monday: Evian-Castellane. 295 miles
It was always going to be a long day so we set of early at 9.00am. We took the Route Des Grandes Alpes heading south. It was stunning. Each corner provided an even better view than the previous.
At Flumet we headed for Albertville where after a snack and comfort break-
-we headed down to pick up the Route Napoleon at Grenoble. This end of the route is not that exciting and it was not until we had cleared Gap that it began to improve. By the time we reached our destination at Castellane it was back to astounding.
Castellane
The B&B was remotely located about a ½ mile from the town center
The access road to it was a little tricky though.
Gaynor, Beebs and the two Andy’s were booked in a different B&B at the other side of town. Turns out that due to another error the Beebs brothers were in a double again. The owner of their B&B lisened to Paul assuring her “We’re not Gay! We’re brothers”. Looked like Andy’s torment would last for another 3 nights.
Tuesday: Gorges de Daluis. 103miles
The exertions of the last few days had took there toll on Deb’s knee and Bab’s foot so they decided to have a day by Lake Castellane along with Andy & Gaynor.
Beebs and Ian try to pick up some street cred by pretending the FJR is theirs
Andy, Beebs, Ian & I headed off for a route recommended by Ed (our host at the B&B). As usual it was not without incedent. At our intended first turn there was a “Route Barree” sign. In true Brit tradition we ignored this and continued down the road only to meet the “Frogs From The Blackstuff” coming the other way. We pulled into a layby waited for them to pass and finish rolling the new tarmac then continued on our way on the nice fresh surface.
Ed was as good as his word. It was a fantastic route. 3 cols and 3 gorges with some awesome views. It was described by Ian as the best days biking he had ever had.
We caught up with the others later and they had just chilled by the beach all day. Debs had neglected to bring a cossie but improvised by bathing fully clothed. Then stripping to bra and pants and hanging jeans and t-shirt on tree to dry. The other 3 all failed to get me a photo of this. We strolled down to Castellane center for a meal in the evening and some staggered back.
Wednesday: Verdon Gorge. 120 miles
This was what we had come here for and it didn’t disappoint. The journey to the gorge wetted our appetites
But it was quite nerveracking to see the gorge and think we were riding along each side
The view from the top was made more amazing when about 10 eagles started circling us. Maybe they thought they could survive the winter if they could carry Beebs off.
It was a long way up (or down) though
But luckily there was plenty of edge protection
Lunch was had at the lake at the end of the gorge
We had our customary BBQ in the evening .
Thursday: Castellane- Le Puy En Velay. 221 miles
Today was the day we started heading north for the first time in a week and I think we were all a bit sad to think we were at the beginning of the end. We headed back up the Route Napoleon to Sisteron and then cut off up the D933 to the interestingly named town of Die where we had a spot of lunch.
Babs burger was a bit unusual
But Debs managed 5 helpings
Whilst Mac had an afternoon snooze
Gaynor wasn’t telling how many helpings she had.
After lunch we decided to split up. Ian,Paul and Andy took the route over the Col du Rosset whilst the rest of us (with Babs joining me as pillion) took the more direct route to Le Puy En Velay. As it turned out what we thought was more direct turned out to be known locally as “the Route of 4 Cols”. 70 miles of hairpins. Weather was closing in fast though. 36 degrees at 1pm become 12 degrees by 3:30 and storm clouds gathering so we were very glad when we arrived at the hotel still dry. Whilst checking in I enquired of the receptionist if the booking for Beeble was a double or a twin. “A twin” she replied. Unfortunately she did not understand when I asked her to tell Paul it was a double. The others arrived safely about 2 hours after us.
Friday: Le Puy De Velay-Epernay 380 miles
The task of getting home was now upon us and we headed for the motorway to eat some miles. As we got further north the weather grew colder and by the time we got to our exit. The sky was black. We needed fuel and just as we filled up the heavens opened and it came down in stair-rods. We sheltered for 5 minutes and donned the waterproofs for the first time. We decided to make a dash for it and apart from one 5 minute shower it stayed off. Mind you we did nearly lose Beebs whilst passing the McCain Chip factory and Gaynor was sorely tempted at the gates of Moet & Chandon’s HQ,
It was tricky finding a place to eat on our final night. Although it was 7:30pm on a Friday night the town centre was deserted and most bars either shut or shutting. We did find a place however and we were all very impressed when Beebs ordered Steak Tartare. He looked confused when we acknowledged his bravery. This turned to dismay when we explained it was raw meat. He quickly hunted down the waitress who was only too happy to change his order to pasta.
Saturday: Epernay-Home
Final day dawned with blue skies so we packed for the final time and headed out. Again we did not bother with sightseeing and blasted towards Calais and Blighty. Rain caught us briefly but we pulled in for waterproofs and ironicly never saw any more.
We made the tunnel with 2 hours to spare and were bumped to the next available train. Andy & Gaynor had intended breaking the journey back to Liverpool at Banbury but as we were ahead of schedule decided that they were going for it and pushing for home in what would prove to be a bum numbing 517miles. There was a hell of a return to reality when, on the M25, we saw a biker down on the opposite carriageway. It could only have happened 5 minutes before. It looked bad and I’ve since found out that the rider died at the scene. It was a stark reminder of the risk we take.
We said our goodbyes at Newport Pagnell and headed our separate ways. We were 375 miles for the day. 2225 in all for the trip.
We had a great time and have started planning the next one.
As a footnote (boom! Boom!) Babs has since let us know that she has since seen a doctor about her foot and had actually broken a bone during her off.
It was on Normandy 2008 that the idea of a French tour was first muted. It was decided that a full blown club run would be unmanageable so it would be kept to the parties sat around the table. These being Mac & Debs, Andy & Gaynor, Ian & Babs, Ade & Mandy and the Beebs brothers. Dates & rough details were finalized at the Lakes run. Unfortunately Ade & Mandy had to drop out so it was 8 adventurers that finally met on a fine, if very windy, Friday morning in August at Scoffers café on the A45 outside Northampton.
Friday: Northampton – Douai. 240miles
Before we got out of the café car park we had a problem. Beeb’s Satnav (a “quality” alternative to the Zumo or Rider) decided that it was in Mongolia and no amount of persuasion was going to change it’s mind. It was therefore consigned to the pannier and we headed off via the the old A45 through Kimbolton and St Neots to the M11. Then down to the chunnel. It was heavy going in the wind and somewhat reminiscent of the trip down the M6 after JR08. When we emerged in France it was a quick blat down the N23 to Douai. Andy had been nominated “Peage B*tch”. When approaching a toll Gaynor took the lead and Andy would pay for each of us as we passed through out of the communial kitty (which all meals, drinks and tolls were paid out of). This helped speed up tolls no end.
We were booked in the Ibis in Douai town center. The receptionist did not speak english, yam-yam or scouse but was instantly impressed by Gaynor who translated “are there eggs for breakfast” into squatting and flapping arms whilst clucking and straining. At dinner an Italian taught us the language essentials – maison vin rouge / maison vin blanc.
Saturday: Douai-Neufchateau. 223miles
The buffet breakfast consisted of Ham, Cheese and Pastries (no eggs) We ate half and nicked the rest for a packed lunch later. Outside the hotel a market was set up so we added a couple of cooked chickens to our stash.
Gaynor blows up her front tyre ready for the off
We hadn’t got 2 miles before Ian & Babs had an off. The car in front stopped in their lane and whilst overtaking they caught the edge of the raised bus lane which through them off. Ian’s reflexes were catlike however and he managed to avoid the bike falling on him by throwing it onto Babs who did not fair so well, hurting her foot. She declined all suggestions to go to the hospital and we continued on our way. We avoided motorways and headed for the Meuse valley. We ate our pilfered goods and chicken on a village green
Beebs still has a lot to learn about sharing a chicken
Heading down the valley we stopped in Verdun to:
Pass wind
Honour the past
And enter into Role Playing.
At the hotel in Neufchateau. The Beebs Brothers found that when they took over Ade’s room booking (they were originally camping) they had neglected to change it from a twin to a double (so they would be camping after all ;D). Paul was annoyed. Andy was somewhat subdued but was insisting on more pillows in the room. Still they put a brave face on it and dressed for an evening on the pull:
Strangely they were unlucky
Sunday: Neufchateau-Evian. 236 miles
More ham and cheese for breakfast (and our panniers!) and once Beebs had checked his hand for blisters we set off.
We continued south down the Meuse valley then through the Loue valley on the D67 before heading into Switzerland (via the unattended customs post) and into the Alps.
We had not paid for a Swiss Motorway Vignette at £27 each so kept to the A-roads and they were stunning. Sweeping bends, hairpins and breathtaking scenery. We managed to get separated in Montreux but not for long and after finding each other again we rode round the Lake Geneva coast road before re-entering France and stopping for the night at Evian. Debs unfortunately dropped her bike on the gravel in the hotel carpark but no real damage was done.
Freddie Mercury statue in Montreux
Monday: Evian-Castellane. 295 miles
It was always going to be a long day so we set of early at 9.00am. We took the Route Des Grandes Alpes heading south. It was stunning. Each corner provided an even better view than the previous.
At Flumet we headed for Albertville where after a snack and comfort break-
-we headed down to pick up the Route Napoleon at Grenoble. This end of the route is not that exciting and it was not until we had cleared Gap that it began to improve. By the time we reached our destination at Castellane it was back to astounding.
Castellane
The B&B was remotely located about a ½ mile from the town center
The access road to it was a little tricky though.
Gaynor, Beebs and the two Andy’s were booked in a different B&B at the other side of town. Turns out that due to another error the Beebs brothers were in a double again. The owner of their B&B lisened to Paul assuring her “We’re not Gay! We’re brothers”. Looked like Andy’s torment would last for another 3 nights.
Tuesday: Gorges de Daluis. 103miles
The exertions of the last few days had took there toll on Deb’s knee and Bab’s foot so they decided to have a day by Lake Castellane along with Andy & Gaynor.
Beebs and Ian try to pick up some street cred by pretending the FJR is theirs
Andy, Beebs, Ian & I headed off for a route recommended by Ed (our host at the B&B). As usual it was not without incedent. At our intended first turn there was a “Route Barree” sign. In true Brit tradition we ignored this and continued down the road only to meet the “Frogs From The Blackstuff” coming the other way. We pulled into a layby waited for them to pass and finish rolling the new tarmac then continued on our way on the nice fresh surface.
Ed was as good as his word. It was a fantastic route. 3 cols and 3 gorges with some awesome views. It was described by Ian as the best days biking he had ever had.
We caught up with the others later and they had just chilled by the beach all day. Debs had neglected to bring a cossie but improvised by bathing fully clothed. Then stripping to bra and pants and hanging jeans and t-shirt on tree to dry. The other 3 all failed to get me a photo of this. We strolled down to Castellane center for a meal in the evening and some staggered back.
Wednesday: Verdon Gorge. 120 miles
This was what we had come here for and it didn’t disappoint. The journey to the gorge wetted our appetites
But it was quite nerveracking to see the gorge and think we were riding along each side
The view from the top was made more amazing when about 10 eagles started circling us. Maybe they thought they could survive the winter if they could carry Beebs off.
It was a long way up (or down) though
But luckily there was plenty of edge protection
Lunch was had at the lake at the end of the gorge
We had our customary BBQ in the evening .
Thursday: Castellane- Le Puy En Velay. 221 miles
Today was the day we started heading north for the first time in a week and I think we were all a bit sad to think we were at the beginning of the end. We headed back up the Route Napoleon to Sisteron and then cut off up the D933 to the interestingly named town of Die where we had a spot of lunch.
Babs burger was a bit unusual
But Debs managed 5 helpings
Whilst Mac had an afternoon snooze
Gaynor wasn’t telling how many helpings she had.
After lunch we decided to split up. Ian,Paul and Andy took the route over the Col du Rosset whilst the rest of us (with Babs joining me as pillion) took the more direct route to Le Puy En Velay. As it turned out what we thought was more direct turned out to be known locally as “the Route of 4 Cols”. 70 miles of hairpins. Weather was closing in fast though. 36 degrees at 1pm become 12 degrees by 3:30 and storm clouds gathering so we were very glad when we arrived at the hotel still dry. Whilst checking in I enquired of the receptionist if the booking for Beeble was a double or a twin. “A twin” she replied. Unfortunately she did not understand when I asked her to tell Paul it was a double. The others arrived safely about 2 hours after us.
Friday: Le Puy De Velay-Epernay 380 miles
The task of getting home was now upon us and we headed for the motorway to eat some miles. As we got further north the weather grew colder and by the time we got to our exit. The sky was black. We needed fuel and just as we filled up the heavens opened and it came down in stair-rods. We sheltered for 5 minutes and donned the waterproofs for the first time. We decided to make a dash for it and apart from one 5 minute shower it stayed off. Mind you we did nearly lose Beebs whilst passing the McCain Chip factory and Gaynor was sorely tempted at the gates of Moet & Chandon’s HQ,
It was tricky finding a place to eat on our final night. Although it was 7:30pm on a Friday night the town centre was deserted and most bars either shut or shutting. We did find a place however and we were all very impressed when Beebs ordered Steak Tartare. He looked confused when we acknowledged his bravery. This turned to dismay when we explained it was raw meat. He quickly hunted down the waitress who was only too happy to change his order to pasta.
Saturday: Epernay-Home
Final day dawned with blue skies so we packed for the final time and headed out. Again we did not bother with sightseeing and blasted towards Calais and Blighty. Rain caught us briefly but we pulled in for waterproofs and ironicly never saw any more.
We made the tunnel with 2 hours to spare and were bumped to the next available train. Andy & Gaynor had intended breaking the journey back to Liverpool at Banbury but as we were ahead of schedule decided that they were going for it and pushing for home in what would prove to be a bum numbing 517miles. There was a hell of a return to reality when, on the M25, we saw a biker down on the opposite carriageway. It could only have happened 5 minutes before. It looked bad and I’ve since found out that the rider died at the scene. It was a stark reminder of the risk we take.
We said our goodbyes at Newport Pagnell and headed our separate ways. We were 375 miles for the day. 2225 in all for the trip.
We had a great time and have started planning the next one.
As a footnote (boom! Boom!) Babs has since let us know that she has since seen a doctor about her foot and had actually broken a bone during her off.