Post by chrispangaro on Nov 9, 2007 3:30:08 GMT
There are very few sportsbikes to be found in the European Alps… perhaps surprising given the endless mountain passes comprised of kilometres of bends. Then again, on a sportsbike you cant take in the view so much.
And the views are spectacular – providing something of a riding hazard. Many of the smaller passes with less traffic are very narrow bitumen roads with sparse two way traffic and almost continuous blind bends…. Taking a moment to look at the view without stopping led to a few major underpants moments… French drivers in particular preferring always to take blind bends using the full width of the roads at full whack.
Instead the Alps are infested with big dual purpose bikes – BMW 1200GS – common as muck – everyone rides them. The rugged individualistic types ride the many Africa Twins with a big representation of Transalps, Varaderos TDMs and V Stroms (my at home ride). Makes sense really given that many of the roads are pretty lumpy.
My mate Chris left from Bologna and hit the Alps right down on the French coast above Cannes, me on the now scruffy Yamaha Diversion 900 I bought last year in the UK and Chris on a rented Bandit 650 with the widest panniers I have ever seen. The Provencal Alps were a revelation – in the bit around the border between Italy and France there is a vast network of very minor roads that loop up and over both minor and major passes. The road from Grasse to Castellane has to be ridden to be believed.
Unlike the more chocolate box style northern Alps the landscape is dry, khaki and very rocky – but spectacular despite that. A highlight was going up and over the Col du Bonnett – apparently the highest pass in Europe at over 2800 meters. Its about 30k of tight twisties up and the same down… with the last 10k having sheer drop offs, no guard rails and oncoming traffic. And cold. Respect to the bicycle riders at the top.
After extensive playing in France we met a few other friends on a rented but unremarkable 1200GS and headed through the Swiss Alps on into Austria in the Southern Tyrol. We holed up at a hotel very close to the top of the Furka Pass for three nights, September being the quiet season between the walkers and the skiers. They were grateful to have us, it was comfortable and they did us a dinner bed and breakfast package that at the end worked out to 50 euro per person per day… including all drinks. That’s about $80 (Aus) per day each. And did they feed us – four course dinners with all the major fat groups well represented… the root, leaves and Brassica groups didn’t get much of a look in but they did seem to have a dedicated dairy on special duty providing the cream that smothered everything.
From there to the top of the Stelvio pass in Italy – one of the most challenging with an amazingly steep climb up through 45 foot down hairpins – sweaty stuff on the porky luggage laden Yamaha. After which the rain and snow set in – so Chris and I headed for Croatia. A new place for me and sensational. We rode every bit of the coast road from the top to the bottom – about 500k I think – which wound around almost every bay and inlet most with the ocean less than a stone’s throw away. In the north where the coast road has been bypassed and resealed it was not only unbelievably smooth but also deserted.
This road delivered us to the ancient, once Venetian port city of Zadar with marble streets. Then on to Split and Dubrovnik. By which time the Yamaha’s handling was getting seriously bad – with totally shagged suspension it was never great – but this was really bad. Investigation revealed a collapsing front wheel bearing. Made it into Dubrovnik with a good shimmy going to be told by the Yamaha dealer that they could rush the parts down in about 10 days. Long story for another time but we decided to quit from there back to Italy by slow ferry – very pleasant.
All in all a great trip – four full weeks on the bikes – about 5000k. Vast amounts of food and beverages. Meanwhile the bike is parked in a relative’s shed in Northern Italy awaiting my return next year – it has to be back in London by August when the MOT runs out.
This years ride worked really well for me. After last years Euro loop i left it with a friend (and nominal owner) in London. My mate from Perth picked it up there and rode it to Bologna where i flew in from Sydney.
Am currently working on the plan for next years ride - after which the bike will be back in London needing a clean, a rear shock and a new owner.
Cheers
Chris
And the views are spectacular – providing something of a riding hazard. Many of the smaller passes with less traffic are very narrow bitumen roads with sparse two way traffic and almost continuous blind bends…. Taking a moment to look at the view without stopping led to a few major underpants moments… French drivers in particular preferring always to take blind bends using the full width of the roads at full whack.
Instead the Alps are infested with big dual purpose bikes – BMW 1200GS – common as muck – everyone rides them. The rugged individualistic types ride the many Africa Twins with a big representation of Transalps, Varaderos TDMs and V Stroms (my at home ride). Makes sense really given that many of the roads are pretty lumpy.
My mate Chris left from Bologna and hit the Alps right down on the French coast above Cannes, me on the now scruffy Yamaha Diversion 900 I bought last year in the UK and Chris on a rented Bandit 650 with the widest panniers I have ever seen. The Provencal Alps were a revelation – in the bit around the border between Italy and France there is a vast network of very minor roads that loop up and over both minor and major passes. The road from Grasse to Castellane has to be ridden to be believed.
Unlike the more chocolate box style northern Alps the landscape is dry, khaki and very rocky – but spectacular despite that. A highlight was going up and over the Col du Bonnett – apparently the highest pass in Europe at over 2800 meters. Its about 30k of tight twisties up and the same down… with the last 10k having sheer drop offs, no guard rails and oncoming traffic. And cold. Respect to the bicycle riders at the top.
After extensive playing in France we met a few other friends on a rented but unremarkable 1200GS and headed through the Swiss Alps on into Austria in the Southern Tyrol. We holed up at a hotel very close to the top of the Furka Pass for three nights, September being the quiet season between the walkers and the skiers. They were grateful to have us, it was comfortable and they did us a dinner bed and breakfast package that at the end worked out to 50 euro per person per day… including all drinks. That’s about $80 (Aus) per day each. And did they feed us – four course dinners with all the major fat groups well represented… the root, leaves and Brassica groups didn’t get much of a look in but they did seem to have a dedicated dairy on special duty providing the cream that smothered everything.
From there to the top of the Stelvio pass in Italy – one of the most challenging with an amazingly steep climb up through 45 foot down hairpins – sweaty stuff on the porky luggage laden Yamaha. After which the rain and snow set in – so Chris and I headed for Croatia. A new place for me and sensational. We rode every bit of the coast road from the top to the bottom – about 500k I think – which wound around almost every bay and inlet most with the ocean less than a stone’s throw away. In the north where the coast road has been bypassed and resealed it was not only unbelievably smooth but also deserted.
This road delivered us to the ancient, once Venetian port city of Zadar with marble streets. Then on to Split and Dubrovnik. By which time the Yamaha’s handling was getting seriously bad – with totally shagged suspension it was never great – but this was really bad. Investigation revealed a collapsing front wheel bearing. Made it into Dubrovnik with a good shimmy going to be told by the Yamaha dealer that they could rush the parts down in about 10 days. Long story for another time but we decided to quit from there back to Italy by slow ferry – very pleasant.
All in all a great trip – four full weeks on the bikes – about 5000k. Vast amounts of food and beverages. Meanwhile the bike is parked in a relative’s shed in Northern Italy awaiting my return next year – it has to be back in London by August when the MOT runs out.
This years ride worked really well for me. After last years Euro loop i left it with a friend (and nominal owner) in London. My mate from Perth picked it up there and rode it to Bologna where i flew in from Sydney.
Am currently working on the plan for next years ride - after which the bike will be back in London needing a clean, a rear shock and a new owner.
Cheers
Chris
