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Post by CD on Jun 18, 2007 22:22:37 GMT
These are the new brakes in place on my 900. I used DIY a braided hose system where you cut the hose to length and attach the ends yourself. They include a screw-down nut that clamps the braiding over a sealing olive. The braided hose system was easy to use, but needed really sharp wire cutters and some trial and error to get the ends correctly aligned. The hose should not be twisted. The hoses were no cheaper than ready made stuff - so go for it if you can get custom hoses made up. The 2004 R6 master cylinder is not ideal on the Divvie 900. It will work fine but the remote fluid reservoir, is not as neat as the original and needed a small support bracket. Maybe the TDM 850/900 master cylinder would be nicer looking. The brake light switch also needed mini spade connectors. The D9 connector won't work on the R6 master cylinder. I used a large syringe to fill the brakes from the caliper ends. Its quick and there are fewer bubbles to pump out. Though it did benefit from tying the lever back for a couple of hours to let the last few bubbles out. The caliper bleed nipples threads did not seal very well so I had to watch for spilled fluid. Another time, I would try PTFE tape on the threads. However, other people have been happy with the car accessory bleed nipples that include non return valves.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jun 23, 2007 15:48:58 GMT
looks good, but i personally would have tried the origonal divi master cylinder, but if that didnt work, then the fazer master cylinder, would look better have the stuff to do mine, but its not top priority atm how do you find them?
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Post by CD on Jun 25, 2007 10:32:13 GMT
Can't argue about the master cyls but got the R6 stuff as a set for £75 so not complaining. Some have also said the original Divve cylinder makes for wooden feeling brakes. I also took them off complete as a set so they could quickly go back if necessary.
I struggled to get organic pads so these are the pink ceramic carbons. I hope the discs dont wear away too fast.
These are certainly more powerful, but more importantly VERY controllable. I need noticeably less lever pressure for a given braking effort so can ease off the brakes without pogoing the bike. I also suspect that u turns are easier as these brakes dont grab like the old ones did. But, if thats a fault in the old brakes, due to age or wear or simply a less good design I wouldnt know. Time will tell of course.
A pilion riding friend says the ride is definitely smoother.
My slight concern is the issue of winter salt damage. The blue spots dont have any sort of external seal so corrosion is a worry. I'll probably have to get a cheapo pressure washer and use it regularly. Maybe some silicone grease around each caliper piston will help.
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Post by General Gman on Jun 25, 2007 12:51:33 GMT
The pistons are hard anodised, though, rather than chromed, so will resist the weather better.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jun 25, 2007 16:24:02 GMT
blue spots have a dust seal as well as the fluid seal as for hard anodised, i thought they were stainless, they looked like stainless the last ones i had apart ;D
buy a tub of red rubber grease from ebay, and give em a smear, i do mine twice a year
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Post by CD on Jun 26, 2007 13:12:26 GMT
The brakes I have dont have any visible seals, the pistons come straight out into the breeze.
The caliper finish is a matt slightly rough "cast" effect in a dark charcoal grey. It seems very hard so I suspect its anodised. I cant see any way that dust seals would be clipped in.
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Post by eliminator on Jun 26, 2007 16:59:06 GMT
Dark grey to me would suggest that they are plastic, much like those on my BMW. The only time that you would see the seals (in my limited experience) would be when there was something wrong. The dust seals sit about 2 to 3mm inboard of the caliper bore. (usually)
As my fellow GSer (tosser ;D) wrote, use red rubber grease. Couldn't agree more, this will help to reduce the penetration of the winter salt working it's way into the dust seal groove.
I was quite surprised the first time that I stripped the brakes, to find out how loose the piston was inside the caliper without the dust & fluid seals. I had always assumed that the clearance would only be a few microns to stop the ingress of dirt. Now in hindsight I realise that this does not have to be the case, as any corrosion would result in a seized piston.
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Post by CD on Jun 26, 2007 18:24:40 GMT
Thanks E. I'll be getting some red grease.
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Post by CD on Jul 20, 2007 16:49:51 GMT
Just to add. I love the new brakes, smooth, powerful and above all very controllable. The bike stops better but maybe not by much. More importantly I need less muscle to get the job done and therefore have more control.
I would say to anyone who thinks their D900 front brakes need an overhaul - dont bother - get some blue spots.
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Post by eliminator on Jul 20, 2007 19:08:16 GMT
If only I'd realised this before the 7 week saga of ordering a caliper from a breakers
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jul 26, 2007 22:08:18 GMT
have my blue spots fitted, used Fazer 600 calipers and master cylinder and ordered new HEL lines off ebay, Fazer 600 front+75mm and standard D9 rear, was so easy to fit and all bled in about 20 mins, not tried yet on the road yet though
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