Swingarm , final drive and rearshock removal

[werner1]

A few weeks ago, I noticed that the richt hand pivot bolt couldn't be removed
After 5 days spraying penetrating-oil on it ,
(morning-evening and whanever I pased the bike in the garage),
It came loos this week.
So this weekend I removed the swingarm to check te bearing.

Preparation :
Remove : sadle , rear brake caliper , rear wheel , left-hand side silencer .
And because I want to remove the rearschockbalso, I remove :
side panels and battery

Next : remove the driveshaft , final drive and then loosen the suspension linkage.

The driveshaft comes out when you pull the housing of the swingarm

Unscrew the pivot bolts


Swingarm comes out easely now


Left hand side , it's easy to remove the bearing.
This side the bearing race can be knocked out from behind.


Left and right bearing


Reason : brooken grease-seal


The right hand side bearing race is rusted into the swingarm.
Normally this has to be removed with a puller.
What I do (because I don't have one) is welding the inside of the race.
When it cools down the welding lets the race schrink just enough
to be pulled out.

The bearings from the suspension linkage are easally removed



Rear shock


Herefore I drill a 10mm hole so I can knock out the upper mounting bolt


In the battery compartement is already (standard) a hole.
From left to right the mounting bolt is diven out.

[CD]

Hi Werner, thanks for this.
My swing arm is getting quite rusty (fairly normal for Divvie 900s in UK) and I need to grease the shock absorber links so this information is really helpful.
PS Do you think it is worthwhile to fit grease nipples so the bearings can be easily greased with a greas gun.

[werner1]

Don't know . Wasn't planning on that.

It's not that difficult to remove the pivot bolts (one by one)
and grease them.

For the suspention Linkage , these bolts are also easely to remove.

If they are not rusted that is


Edit: come to think of it, don't think it's possible. The bearing are rolling on a race .
do'nt think with this kind of bearing a grease nipple is of mutch use

[CD]

Ah yes, not so simple with rollers.

Maybe the bolt/spindles could be cross drilled and a grease nipples threaded into bolt/spindle ends.

If I do it I'll post some pix.
Werner, do you have a list of bearing parts to order when doing a swing-arm rebuild?

[werner1]

chirodave said:

Werner, do you have a list of bearing parts to order when doing a swing-arm rebuild?

I went to the bearing-farmer this evening. He was going to order them.
Seems to be something special.

The Pivot bolt bearing are marked : KOYO ....HI-CAP....30203JR....Japan



And those who came out of the swingarm (suspension linkage)
aren't verry readable ....japan...EMKM1730DJ*...

When the bearing guy lets me know I'll post it here

[werner1]

The Pivot bolt bearing : KOYO ....HI-CAP....30203JR....Japan

alternate part : Timken ...30203...france


Couldn't find an alternate branche for the suspension linkage bearings.
Had to order them by the Yamaha deaker . 28€/each

[mickjpotts]

I dont know if I am posting this question in the correct place, but does anybody have a suggestion as to how to remove/replace the needle roller bearings in the swing arm linkage? I know that a pro workshop would have the tools, but I am looking for a DIY option.

[CD]

Werner is pretty thorough so I'd guess they are simply drifted out with a suitable flat ended round bar. The old bearings will be smashed-up in the process. If not sure how to do it take the linkage parts off and get a professional to fit the new bearings. You'll save £loads in labour charges.

[werner1]

The left hand side bearing is easaly drifted out with a flat ended round bar. This side you can acces the bearing from behind.
The right hand side bearing is more difficult because it has no acces from behind .

This bearing was completaly broken (see foto's) so I welded it out .

[HRHpenfold]

in the Reaper 900 DvD's it shows you how to easly get the difficult one out

[CD]

I've just fitted the swing arm and shock I bought from Werner. The handling is transformed - thanks Werner.

To get at the top shock mount I removed the rear mudguard. Its actually easy enough. I'm glad I did because the cross tube that supports the rear of the top shock mount was really rusty. Its exposed to all the road grit and was looking pretty tatty. I also waxoyled under the shock mount and will be fitting a mud flap to protect the frame and shock from road grit.

The new shock has shown up how worn the bottom link bearings actually are so that's the next job.
D