removing wheel bearings

[werner1]

Reason, I purchased a second set of wheels for circuit purposes
and want to powdercoat them.
The powdercoating-process includes backing at 200°C
The wheel-bearing are not resisted to thes temperatures so
I remove them.


First we read the manual ;D



The brake disc is already removed
First the grease seal




Normaly you use a brass drift to knock out the bearings.
As I do not have one I use a screwdriver . But first I heat the
wheel centre



A few punches



The bearings come out surprisingly easy.
Well they aren't damaged otherwise the sometimes aree very difficult to remove.
Leftside(rearwheel) there are 2 bearings.
Once removed the spacer comes out
Now you have beter acces to drive out the right bearing.



After heating we drive out this bearing as well


Finished

[teffort]

Werner
Just read through your three posts - very clear and helpful instructions and great pics. Much better than the Haynes manual.
Thanks very much. I'm sure many like me will find them useful (even though we still might not do all these jobs ourselves!
Paul

[werner1]

I hope they are useful and the english readable .

I have some more artikels made, but the pics aren't that good
(no macro mode on my previous camera)

[teffort]

You're English is excellent Werner - better than many here who should have a slight advantage!
Paul

[CD]

It should be obvious, but just in case its not

The old bearings will be unusable.

Unless you have sophisticated bearing extractors the bearings will be damaged when hammering out. Also, (ideally) tap around the edges of the race so the bearing stays square in its bore as it comes out.

[werner1]

Yes , it's a " fire-and-forget" action. Once knocked out they have to be
replaced by new ones. (+/- 5€/piece here)

Bearings are one of the less expensive items on your bike
(except for the air in the tires ;D)



The new ones are driven in with a socket big enough to cover
the outside ring.

[CD]

The last wheel bearing I did (not a Diversion) caused all sorts of problems. The previous numpty ower (or his mechanic) had at some time tightened the spindle bolt so hard it crushed the spacer tube. Thankfully the Yamaha wheel bearing tube looks tough enough.

The main dealer would have to order from head office, but had never ever been asked for one and could not give a delivery date. I got a spacer tube made specially with thicker walls.
Working out how to measure the correct length was quite a puzzle.

[werner1]

changed the Koyo bearings by an alternate branch

SNR 6203.EE (four bearings) and SNR 6303 (one bearing)

[HRHpenfold]

posted on the old site by Markeith
replaced on my bike, they may help in finding cheaper alternatives

Speedo Gear Unit : 4HM251902000
Ignition Switch : 4JH825010400

Oil Filter (Yamaha) : Y3FV1344010
Oil Filter (Hi Flow) : HF03
Oil Filter (Champion) : F306

Front Wheel Bearing : BRG62032RS x 2
Rear Wheel Bearing : BRG62032RS x 2, BRG60042RS x 1, BRG63032RS x 1

Spark Plugs (NGK Irridium) : DPR8EIX-9 x 4 (Longer life alternative, but more expensive)

Air Filter (Yamaha) : 4BR144510000
Air Filter (K & N) : YA-78585



hope this helps Keith

[max900]

Greetings

Ive just been reading this page as im looking to replace my wheel bearings in the not to distant future ;D

Excellent write up there werner1 set out a damn site better than the haynes manual

i was doing fine till i came across this bit in Penfolds post

Rear Wheel Bearing : BRG62032RS x 2,
BRG60042RS x 1,
BRG63032RS x 1,
this is listing 4 Bearings for the rear
i thought there were 2 in the front and 3 in the rear not 4 anyone got any thoughts about which one is the odd one out

Max...............

[HRHpenfold]

this is the drive coupling bearing, thats what i bought anyhow
BRG60042RS x 1

i dont remember getting any other bearings, as i already had a few of these
BRG62032RS
but i stand to be corrected, if anyone knows better ;D

[max900]

Greetings

Thanks for clearing that one up ;D

it makes sense as there is one in the coupling ;D