Faulty Fuel Gauge Fix XJ900s

[anon]

Terry 900 Divvy contacted Michel Deventer who is the original author on how to fix a faulty fuel gauge on the Dutch Divvy site. Michel kindly allowed a link to his article on how to fix the gauge.

www.home.zonnet.nl/mdeventer/

Apparently though, Yamaha know this is problem and you might be able to get help from your local dealer/Yamaha if this happens to you. It will depend on the condition, maintenance record of your bike etc

See following posts in this thread for more.

It appears that newer models of the Diversion have a different part number so the problem may no longer occur.

From: rowlf Sent: 11/09/2002

The original fuel sender unit part number was 4KM-85752-00

This has been superceded by 4KM-85752-01 which is hopefully a more reliable unit.

taken from a posting by ahalin

[olof]

Hi

As a newbie I have to ask silly questions.
I read the article about how to repair the fuel gauge and think I can follow the steps adviced. Now to my question - how do I get the equipment out of the tank (off the bike)?

regards
olof

[CD]

The fuel sender unit is under the tank you will need to take the tank off the bike and make sure its almost empty before starting.
I have just done the mod on my sender unit. It needed a brass tube large enough to go over the peg on the sender pivot. The tube was stuck on with JB Weld epoxy metal. I then drilled out the black plastic body to suit the diameter of the brass tube.
A word of warning - Make sure you can get a drill the same size as the brass tube you choose to use.

[El Fuego]

My gauge is working fine ATM but this is Nice to know!

[CD]

A bit more about my gauge...

If an otherwise standard gauge is working it makes sense to do this mod anyway. The monkey metal quadrant that carries the pick up contacts is as soft as cheese and wears badly against the black plastic body of the sender unit. My original gauge had packed up because the quadrant was soo loose the feeeler contacts dropped off. I got another sender cheaply but its was also badly worn though the contact feelers were ok.

As Michel Deventer says, I got some brass tube from a model shop to fit over the pivot and cut a piece just slightly shorter (like 1/2mm) than the spigot. I stuck it on with JB Weld metal epoxy and also stuck in the float arm at the same time. I then drilled out the sender unit body to the same
diameter as the brass tube. In my case it was 4.8mm. The little spring clip retaining washer is just big enough diameter to retain the repaired spindle - but only just. If I'd chosen a the next size up brass tube the retaining washer would have been too small to retain the quadrant.

Its not really practical to use a smaller tube and file down the spindle, because the feeler contacts are too close and vulnerable. So choose with care.

Anyhow, Daisy now has a working fuel gauge for the princely sum of £1.98 for the brass tube plus (in my case) the replacement sender unit.

If anyone has a gauge that is working, I think do this mod asap. The original design has a 3mm dia spindle carrying a very long float arm. As petrol sloshes about it must get quite heavily loaded. The spindle metal is too soft and wears badly. Michel Deventer's brass sleeve idea solves the problem.

[HRHpenfold]

chirodave said:

A bit more about my gauge...

If an otherwise standard gauge is working it makes sense to do this mod anyway. The monkey metal quadrant that carries the pick up contacts is as soft as cheese and wears badly against the black plastic body of the sender unit. My original gauge had packed up because the quadrant was soo loose the feeeler contacts dropped off. I got another sender cheaply but its was also badly worn though the contact feelers were ok.

As Michel Deventer says, I got some brass tube from a model shop to fit over the pivot and cut a piece just slightly shorter (like 1/2mm) than the spigot. I stuck it on with JB Weld metal epoxy and also stuck in the float arm at the same time. I then drilled out the sender unit body to the same
diameter as the brass tube. In my case it was 4.8mm. The little spring clip retaining washer is just big enough diameter to retain the repaired spindle - but only just. If I'd chosen a the next size up brass tube the retaining washer would have been too small to retain the quadrant.

Its not really practical to use a smaller tube and file down the spindle, because the feeler contacts are too close and vulnerable. So choose with care.

Anyhow, Daisy now has a working fuel gauge for the princely sum of £1.98 for the brass tube plus (in my case) the replacement sender unit.

If anyone has a gauge that is working, I think do this mod asap. The original design has a 3mm dia spindle carrying a very long float arm. As petrol sloshes about it must get quite heavily loaded. The spindle metal is too soft and wears badly. Michel Deventer's brass sleeve idea solves the problem.

i did this mod and it lasted about 3 months, in the end i bought a new one for about £65, they seem to be more sturdy than the origonal and i gues its still fitted now to Teejayexc's bike

[CD]

It's a totally carp design what Yamaha were thinking about I cant imagine. It doesn't even look especially cheap to maufacture.

I've just looked at my old monkey metal pivot quadrant (with the broken contacts). The spindle section has worn barrel shaped and is bent, so looks like it was close to snapping off. The replacement was not so badly worn and I glued the wired float arm into place with JB Weld epoxy metal so it should be a stronger assembly.

So here's hoping for more than 3 months of working fuel gauge.

[werner1]

Chirodave , did the fuel sender survive the transport ?

[CD]

Thanks Werner, yes it arrived fine and after the brass tube mod is working fine. But the box was battered and holed!! The rear shock is great. Thanks.