|
Post by tommosan on May 3, 2020 11:40:47 GMT
Thinking of replacing all brake pads on my divvy non ABS 2014 half faired model.
The bike has only done 2500 from new, but I would like to start from base and replace them.
What does the Forum recommend, there is so much choice, and do the ABS and non ABS make a difference? Are they the same pads?
Regards, Mike.
|
|
|
Post by m40man on May 3, 2020 12:21:48 GMT
I’d always choose sintered pass for the front. I’m sure they are a sharper feel. When I’m feeling flush, I buy EBC brand.
I know some folks reckon organic ones for the rear but I tend to go sintered there too.
Did once buy some Uber-cheap rear pads - they fell apart after 12 months of fairly light use so I’d avoid the cheapest, due to that experience.
|
|
|
Post by tommosan on May 3, 2020 12:25:03 GMT
Been looking at the Organic and have them in my watch list on eBay until I get some feedback from Forum.
Thanks for your advice Mr Gossip.
|
|
|
Post by Reaper on May 3, 2020 16:23:00 GMT
If you are arfter the best all round pad then the genuine Yamaha are the ones to go for.
If you want a bit more grab then usually Carbon Lorraine offer a better stopping power especialy in the wet.
But each owner/rider will have there preferance.
|
|
|
Post by soggybiker on May 4, 2020 7:32:26 GMT
I don't know who makes Yamaha pads but it won't be Yamaha. There are probably 3 lines making all the pads and badging as required. This doesn't make them all the same but doesn't explain how the cost can vary by so much.
I have organic powered pads on the Triumph and would prefer sintered but they work well enough that I wont change them until I need to.
|
|
|
Post by Doom on May 4, 2020 15:47:47 GMT
When I first got the Mighty XJR I found it to be massively under-braked so at an early service I had sintered pads fitted at the front and braided lines fitted all round (including the clutch). I don't do that sort of thing myself. The dealer wouldn't fit sintered pads to the rear. As I remember it was something to do with an operating temperature thing what with rear brakes not working as hard or as often as the front and so on. I might be wrong on that score but I am fairly sure I am right. Memory plays tricks at my age.
There was a great improvement in braking performance which I suspect many would put down to the braided lines rather than the pads!
|
|
|
Post by tommosan on May 4, 2020 18:19:25 GMT
Food for thought, thanks for the advice.
|
|
|
Post by OatCake Productions on May 4, 2020 21:04:27 GMT
I don't find any difference in performance or wear between EBC and the Triumph OEM pads.
What Is noticeable is the noise from the EBC pads (it used to be the same on the Bandit as well). they only way to explain it is it's like a ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Noise. The triumph OEM pads are quiet as where the Suzuki OEMs But the EBC pads let you know when you were braking. In this video you can hear it quite plainly every time I brake into a corner.
|
|
|
Post by bobh on May 6, 2020 21:10:39 GMT
I'd always go with EBC HH (sintered) pads on the front (or Brembo, if you can get them at a decent price). Noticeably sharper stopping power - the only slight downside is a lag of one or tywo revs of the wheel in the wet while the water is cleaned off the disc.
Pretty much anything is fine on the back as far as stopping power goes, but as M40man says, cheapo pads won't last.
|
|
|
Post by Greendivvy Beeb on May 8, 2020 10:07:07 GMT
Only 2500 miles and looking at changing the pads . Must have been doing some seriously hard braking. I've only had to change the rear pads on the divvy the fronts are still the ones from when i got the bike, 50,000 miles ago. The bottom of my boots are worn out though.
|
|
|
Post by OatCake Productions on May 11, 2020 14:24:55 GMT
Only 2500 miles and looking at changing the pads . Must have been doing some seriously hard braking. I've only had to change the rear pads on the divvy the fronts are still the ones from when i got the bike, 50,000 miles ago. The bottom of my boots are worn out though. I reckon it's all to do with the way new ABS braking systems work. On my older bikes I used to get a lot more mileage out of my pads than I do now on the newer bikes. And I don't ride any different than I used to, in fact on the Triumph I reckon I use the brakes even less due to the triples engine brake. Yet the Triumph eats rear pads, roughly 10,000 miles and 24,000 to eat through a rear disk. And I rarely use the damn thing. Front pads last about 18,000 miles.
|
|
|
Post by ContourMac on May 11, 2020 15:47:58 GMT
Only 2500 miles and looking at changing the pads . Must have been doing some seriously hard braking. I've only had to change the rear pads on the divvy the fronts are still the ones from when i got the bike, 50,000 miles ago. The bottom of my boots are worn out though. I reckon it's all to do with the way new ABS braking systems work. On my older bikes I used to get a lot more mileage out of my pads than I do now on the newer bikes. And I don't ride any different than I used to, in fact on the Triumph I reckon I use the brakes even less due to the triples engine brake. Yet the Triumph eats rear pads, roughly 10,000 miles and 24,000 to eat through a rear disk. And I rarely use the damn thing. Front pads last about 18,000 miles. My 2007 Tiger1050 used to eat rear pads but it didn't have ABS. Even stranger is that I very rarely use the rear due to the old war wound. Maybe it used to seize and bind which was exagerated on mine due to lack of use?
|
|
|
Post by Reaper on May 11, 2020 18:33:08 GMT
I dont think it is anything to do with ABS non ABS systems. It is more like the relationship between the size of the disk, makeup of the pad and weight of the machine. Also linked brake systems do have a lot to bare on rear wear, 'IE' BMW motorcycles that have linked brakes only apply the rear brake when the brake pedel is pressed. However if the front is applied the system applies the rear first and sometimes only that one and then the front next if enough pressure is applied to the lever. So you will get more wear on the rear on that system as the rear is always being used irispective of the pedel/lever applied. Tiumph uses a somewhat simler system were the rear brake pedal apllies the rear only. But if the front is applied some rear is added to the mix, so unles below 5mph were the link system is unlinked you are always using the rear disk and pad so hence the wear rate. Yamaha do it different on there linked system, if I remeber right "and at my age thats not to be relied on " the brake pedel applies the rear and partcial braking of one of the front disks and the front lever does the 2 front without adding any rear. As for other makes I havent had anything to do with them so cant say.
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 13, 2020 15:18:48 GMT
I got three times the mileage out of HH sintered pads against OEM organic pads. Sintered were a no brainer TBH.
I fitted Blue Spots at the front (from an R6) and loved the improved brake feel. Sintered of course. The OEM back brake needed annual overhauls so I had planned to use a front blue spot on the back but never got around to it the piston areas are not so far out. It would have needed a special bracket so never got done.
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jul 14, 2020 10:14:40 GMT
I like the OE pads in my Z900RS, but would likely fit SBS or Brembo come time to change them
|
|