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Post by teejayexc on Dec 10, 2015 21:07:31 GMT
Whilst the d6 is in partial strip down mode I thought I would do this mod. Thought there was a thread somewhere on the here to change the vacuum pump to an electric one but I'm bnggered if I can find it  Anyone have it bookmarked or done the mod recently? Tia Trev. |
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Post by cam7777 on Dec 10, 2015 21:27:31 GMT
Last time I did this, I just connected the electric pump in line, then ran a fuse switched live. I used a 12v car fuel pump.
Didn't have any issues
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Post by m40man on Dec 10, 2015 21:57:27 GMT
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Post by teejayexc on Dec 10, 2015 22:05:25 GMT
Cheers Clive. Martin, that was the thread I was thinking of, but the pics are missing and your link to a pdf file? Brought some memories back from the thread contributors though  |
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Post by m40man on Dec 10, 2015 22:09:02 GMT
Just scroll dowm for the pdf - all the pics in there.
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Post by m40man on Dec 10, 2015 22:09:06 GMT
.... opens fine for me :-)
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Post by teejayexc on Dec 10, 2015 22:17:09 GMT
Cheers, got it now  |
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Post by rustytool on Mar 30, 2017 10:02:25 GMT
Have finally got round to fitting an electric fuel pump to Otis. I took the live feed from the brake light switch, as recommended by penfold when we spoke on the january jolly. I used a car pump as mentioned in a previous thread. I haven't yet fitted an inline fuse or a relay, as i was just testing the positioning of the pump as regards wires/pipes/engine casing. I have several relays taken from various cars that i've stripped over the years, as they are 12v i presume they would do the job. The pump works but it doesn't stop when the float chamber is full. Just keeps pumping constantly. Will fitting the relay rectify this ?
Also, the relay has 5 spade type connections, any ideas which one i connect the live feed to & the wire to the pump. does the relay need to be earthed ?
Trevor or Clive got any pictures ?
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Post by GAv on Mar 30, 2017 11:13:17 GMT
The electric pump will keep pumping with the ignition on, as will of course a mechanical one with the engine running, so it shouldnt be an issue as long as the floats,needle jets and gaskets are all in good order.
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Post by bobh on Apr 2, 2017 22:32:55 GMT
On the Yamaha carbed bikes I've had with an electric pump, the pump ticks away when you first turn the ignition on, then stops when the float chambers are full and the needle valves shut off, creating back pressure. The old SU pumps on BL etc. cars were much the same.
I'm guessing that your car pump is different - it may have a built-in overspill (relief) valve, so when the float chambers are full the excess flow is returned to the inlet. But I would have thought that type of pump would need a return line back to the tank for the overspill - I'd be concerned that, if the fuel was just recirculated round the pump, there could be a danger of it overheating.
Out of interest, is you car pump for a carbed engine? I'm guessing here, but I think a pump for injection would run at higher pressure and probably wouldn't be compatible with carbs or the low pressure fuel lines on the Divvy.
I don't see that a relay would make any difference - all that does is switch the power on to the pump whenever the ignition's on.
The connections on the relay will almost certainly be:
- the two coil terminals - live and earth. You should connect the live to your brake light (or other ignition-switched) supply
- the three switchable terminals - common (or pole), normally closed (n/c) and normally open (n/o). You want to connect common to a fused supply from the battery, and n/o to the pump. N/c is not used.
The best way to sort out which is which is with multimeter. Connecting across the coil terminals will show continuity with some resistance (at a guess, maybe 200 ohms). There should be continuity between common and n/c, and the n/o terminal should be open circuit to all the others. You then need to sort out which is common and which is n/c, and to do that you have to actuate the relay, either manually if it has a button, or by connecting 12V across the coil. N/c will then be open circuit and there will be continuity between common and n/o.
Edit - I should add that there may be a diode in the coil circuit, in which case you will only see continuity (with resistance) in one direction, and you will need to take that into account when wiring it up. If there isn't a diode it shouldn't matter which way round it's connected, though if the relay is in a metal can, rather than potted, it's possible that one side may be earthed to the can, so check for that.
I hope that's clear.
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klas
Scooter Rider
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Post by klas on Apr 3, 2017 7:59:31 GMT
What improvement would an electrical pump give compared to the original?
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Post by bobh on Apr 4, 2017 21:37:17 GMT
What improvement would an electrical pump give compared to the original? The older vacuum-operated pump doesn't pump until the engine is spinning,so if the bike hasn't been used for a while and the fuel has evaporated out of the float chambers, it takes a lot of cranking on the starter to fill them up again before the engine fires. But if the bike's used every day it won't make much difference, I should say. |
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klas
Scooter Rider
Posts: 53
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Post by klas on Apr 5, 2017 6:56:59 GMT
The older vacuum-operated pump doesn't pump until the engine is spinning,so if the bike hasn't been used for a while and the fuel has evaporated out of the float chambers, it takes a lot of cranking on the starter to fill them up again before the engine fires. But if the bike's used every day it won't make much difference, I should say. I was guessing that might be the case. The 900 always starts nicely, but the 600 is in no hurry to wake up after a few weeks of sleep. Seems like a mod worth the effort. |
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Post by rustytool on Apr 9, 2017 10:55:45 GMT
Thanks for the replys. The pump used is the one recommended on an earlier thread by rowlf. Tis a facet, low pressure jobbie with the anti vibe mounting.
as bobh thought, there is no return pipe for excess fuel, just flow in & out. so the pump starts as soon as you turn the ignition on. I was hoping that someone who did the mod years ago might still be around and could remember how/what they did.
The old vacuum pump would flatten two bike batteries and still not start the bike, even after draining the float chambers & letting fresh fuel in, still ended up jump starting from a car. which took quite a bit more turning over. I'm surprised the starter motor has given up the ghost.
i'll re read the info on wiring the relay, read it twice but will wait till i have it & multi meter in my hand, might make it easier to comprehend !
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Post by leatherbabe on Apr 9, 2017 13:34:43 GMT
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