|
|
Post by General Gman on May 8, 2014 8:20:09 GMT
So, I sold the ZX-9R, and decided to get an old trailie I bought a KLX650 from the Isle of Wight - it's rough but it was cheap I knew it smoked a bit, but my first proper run on it of 150 miles saw me putting in 1l of oil This thread will document the rebuild of the engine - I'll post pics later today So far, I've fitted new tyres (Maxxis M6006 dual sport) , new pads front and rear, refitted the indicators,new chain, new grips and new exhaust can The silencer that came on the bike was an Arrow Paris-Dakar one that had been hacked about and generally ruined :  I ordered a 'Dominator' silencer (ahem - it doesn't do much silencing) direct from the manufacturer in Poland, £97! :  I've ordered a 2mm oversize Wossner forged piston kit(to give 678cc), and will get the cylinder bored to suit when it arrives Also have a dynojet kit to go on (£35 from the US) Will post pics of the cylinder head etc. later when I get back in the garage.... |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 8, 2014 11:03:16 GMT
This is interesting. How far are you going with the rework ?
Functional/performance only or cosmetic when you get it running as you want ?
|
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on May 8, 2014 12:03:57 GMT
Functional mainly - the plastics are a bit ropey, and they are unavailable new.The big bore is really just because, while I'm replacing the piston, I might as well add some cubes...
I've got a spare set of rad shrouds, spare front fender, front wheel, radiators and tank
I may well lace a rear rim to the front spare - stock wheel sizes are 17" rear , 21" front
If I lace a 17" rim to the front hub, I can fit sticky tyres for those times when I fancy a supermoto
Weird setup with this engine - it has two timing chains with an intermediate sprocket.Does make timing it up a piece of cake by the look of it, though
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 8, 2014 12:32:21 GMT
Looks like the makings of a great bike. The oil consumption will be cured by the rebore, and the extra cubes should increase torque, ideal for these machines.
Looking forward to your updates.
|
|
|
|
Post by HRHpenfold on May 8, 2014 12:50:27 GMT
is it easy to rebore?
what I mean is does it need rebored then coated, or is it simply a rebore only, lots of engines from the 80's onwards run a coated alloy cylinder, so is it a steel lined barrel?
|
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on May 8, 2014 13:22:06 GMT
Yep, steel liner, no silly coating.There were two models of the KLX - a model and C model.The A model was for racing, kickstart only and a bit more power.They have a coated cylinder.I have a C model, steel liner and leccy start .Bigger tank, too - 12l instead of 10l Good place in the New Forest for rebores : saundersmotorworks.com/It's lovely to ride anyway, loads of grunt a a decent top end - the bigger piston will just give me a little more everywhere  |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on May 9, 2014 17:52:36 GMT
Love the shiny exhaust!
|
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on May 18, 2014 18:17:16 GMT
So, got the top end in bits and on my 'clean' bench Valves were heavily coated in carbon, spark plug was as sooty as a victorian chimney Forgot to take pics of the state of the valves, but they cleaned up well on a brass wheel. Will be lapping the valves and refitting with new seals tomorrow night  |
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on May 19, 2014 14:34:45 GMT
This turned up today :  Time to ring the man with the machines and get the rebore booked in |
|
|
|
Post by neilmud Lord Protector on May 19, 2014 16:42:37 GMT
Wassat a new astray & washing machine belt  Neil |
|
|
|
Post by DahDit on May 22, 2014 2:02:27 GMT
Looking good Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk |
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on May 22, 2014 18:41:12 GMT
Dropped cylinder and piston off this morning for the rebore - they rang this afternoon to say it's done. Trouble is, not got a chance to pick it up til tuesday Got the valves lapped and back in the head, fitted stainless exhaust studs, plumbed in a nice QR coupling to the fuel line and managed to get a dynojet kit fitted this afternoon while the VPN to work was down Need to pop the flywheel off so I can retrieve a spring that pinged off and ended up in the bottom end.Cant get it with a magnet or anything else as there's a lower cam chain guide in the way. Good job I invested in the proper flywheel puller (Venhill do a good range at decent prices) Now I'm trying to resist buying silicone hoses at £80.. Will post some more pics monday when I get some proper time in the garage |
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jun 22, 2014 9:25:27 GMT
Been no updates for a while.... I've fitted the piston to the rod, and made ready to pop the cylinder back on This is where I hit a problem.The KLX has two timing chains to enable the engine to be narrower The bottom chain runs from the crank up to an intermediate sprocket, which drives the chain to the cams The Kawasaki manual says to' engage the lower chain on the sprocket, and slip the upper chain on.Be sure to pass the chain up through the cylinder as it is fitted.' That's very easy to say.Nigh imnpossible to do unless you're an octopus.The intermediate sprocket is mounted on a pin which is only fitted when the cylinder is on, so you're trying to hold the chain up, push the cylinder down and keep the sprocket in the correct position as it is very tight to get it through the chain tunnel. I gave up the other night as the garage was hot, England had lost to Uruguay and I was feeling truly peed off. Next attempt is tomorrow.Had some good tips from the KLX Yahoo group, including grinding 6mm off some of the chain tunnel.This from a guy who has built his up to 705cc with custom piston, crank etc. Will update tomorrow night with pics - either of a bike with a cylinder fitted, or a very large bonfire, depending on how it goes |
|
|
|
Post by alan292 on Jun 22, 2014 10:19:54 GMT
Been no updates for a while.... I've fitted the piston to the rod, and made ready to pop the cylinder back on This is where I hit a problem.The KLX has two timing chains to enable the engine to be narrower The bottom chain runs from the crank up to an intermediate sprocket, which drives the chain to the cams The Kawasaki manual says to' engage the lower chain on the sprocket, and slip the upper chain on.Be sure to pass the chain up through the cylinder as it is fitted.' That's very easy to say.Nigh imnpossible to do unless you're an octopus.The intermediate sprocket is mounted on a pin which is only fitted when the cylinder is on, so you're trying to hold the chain up, push the cylinder down and keep the sprocket in the correct position as it is very tight to get it through the chain tunnel. I gave up the other night as the garage was hot, England had lost to Uruguay and I was feeling truly peed off. Next attempt is tomorrow.Had some good tips from the KLX Yahoo group, including grinding 6mm off some of the chain tunnel.This from a guy who has built his up to 705cc with custom piston, crank etc. Will update tomorrow night with pics - either of a bike with a cylinder fitted, or a very large bonfire, depending on how it goes Im not entirely sure if the problem you have here is the same as one I encountered with a mitsibushi engine a few years ago....if it is hopefully this will help...after so many attempts failing whilst assembling things due to the chain slipping from the required position on the sprocket I ended up using small lengths of thread to tie the chain and sprocket together to keep things together whilst assembling then it was easy to tension the chain ..I had to leave the thread which was on the lower sprocket to disintegrate but it never gave me any problems |
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jun 22, 2014 11:01:50 GMT
It does sound just as fiddly
I'm going to remove the stator cover and flywheel to make sure that the bottom chain timing is still ok, then remove the lower tensioners - a guy on the KLX group reckons it's easier with the tensioners out, then put them in after the cylinder is on.I'm not convinced....
|
|
|
|
Post by xtreme600 on Jun 26, 2014 14:25:39 GMT
Dropped cylinder and piston off this morning for the rebore - they rang this afternoon to say it's done. Trouble is, not got a chance to pick it up til tuesday Got the valves lapped and back in the head, fitted stainless exhaust studs, plumbed in a nice QR coupling to the fuel line and managed to get a dynojet kit fitted this afternoon while the VPN to work was down Need to pop the flywheel off so I can retrieve a spring that pinged off and ended up in the bottom end.Cant get it with a magnet or anything else as there's a lower cam chain guide in the way. Good job I invested in the proper flywheel puller (Venhill do a good range at decent prices) Now I'm trying to resist buying silicone hoses at £80.. Will post some more pics monday when I get some proper time in the garage Hello General Gman I am rebuilding the top end on my KLX650, and wonder if you could furnish me with some information. The product number or spec for the Venhill flywheel puller.
The supplier contact details for you Wosner piston. Best Regards Danny |
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jun 26, 2014 15:35:02 GMT
Is yours a C or R model ? If it's an R, the bore is plated and so not any good for an overbore.... I got the piston from forged-pistons.co.uk/Was bout a 4 week lead time Flywheel puller was as follows : VT29 M22 X 1.5 RIGHT HAND FLYWHEEL PULLER Whereabouts are you ? if you're close, I could pop it round |
|
|
|
Post by xtreme600 on Jun 26, 2014 21:46:12 GMT
Thank you very much for the info.
I have purchased the puller from venhill as I'll probably need it more than once.
I'm located in East London.
|
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jun 27, 2014 7:42:41 GMT
I used a 12v impact gun on the puller and it popped the flywheel off in seconds
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2014 10:57:40 GMT
If you need a 12v impact gun I have one you can borrow, I'm close to you in the posh part of East London!  |
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Jul 14, 2014 11:51:47 GMT
So, ground 6mm off the timing chain tunnel, and it made fitting the cylinder much easier Got everything else on, timed it up and turned it over a few times by hand to check the crank rotated freely This it did, so turned it over on the started with a dry carb. Then the truth - would it start once I introduced fuel ? First prod of the starter saw it fire straight into life , so I took it for a spin round the block.It wouldn't rev out, so I suspected a kinked fuel line which is exactly what I found Will sort that tonight, and have an MOT booked for next week |
|
|
|
Post by teejayexc on Jul 14, 2014 16:05:35 GMT
Always a butt clenching time, when you've rebuilt and press that button/kick that starter for the first time. Good work that man keep us updated.
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Jul 30, 2014 17:42:20 GMT
Top stuff. :-)
I was going to suggest a wire coat hanger to hold the cam chain but you got it sorted.
What are the vibes like with the bigger piston?
|
|
|
|
Post by General Gman on Aug 15, 2014 9:32:08 GMT
Well... Been a bit slack in updating this thread
MOT was passed without any problems apart from the tester commenting 'It's a bit loud'
Vibes with the bigger piston are no different - it's actually quite a smooth motor for a big single
Fuelling is not good - it starts and idles fine, acceleration is a bit flat and stumbly from about 4k to 6k , then it clears and absolutely flies.Took me by surprise when it suddenly lifted the front in 3rd gear
I've knocked down the main jet size which has improved matters slightly, but have also found a tear in the carb diaphragm.Ordered a new one (a shade under £40 !) , and will fit it tonight while Jools is out on the lash.Hopefully, that will be the main issue .
Apart from that, the other thing I need to sort is the woefully uncomfortable seat - will pop it in to the chap in Bourne end to see what he can do
|
|
