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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 22, 2013 13:07:16 GMT
Hello people, I engaged 1st gear this morn on my 1992 600 divvy and before I released clutch lever it stalled,so can you tell me how I adjust the clutch cable please .
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2013 14:10:38 GMT
Was the side stand down? If it was then thats normal.
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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 22, 2013 14:20:23 GMT
No side stand up
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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 22, 2013 15:20:39 GMT
If like to know how to adjust the clutch cable, which adjuster to use, lever or on top of clutch housing or both, and what to look for whilst doing it, cheers
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Post by m40man on Nov 22, 2013 15:21:26 GMT
You have a level of adjustment available at the handlebars, by turning the adjuster nut in or out. So try adjusting there initially. Fine-tune it so the bite is OK for you, with no drag whilst it's in gear, with clutch in. That might be all you need.
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Post by rowlf on Nov 22, 2013 15:51:22 GMT
Hello people, I engaged 1st gear this morn on my 1992 600 divvy and before I released clutch lever it stalled,so can you tell me how I adjust the clutch cable please . Is the problem electrical or mechanical ? Put it on the centre stand, in gear, clutch lever pulled in. When you press the starter if should turn over. If the clutch is at fault the rear wheel will turn. Adjust the clutch on the lever. You may need a new cable if you can't adjust it far enough ! If the bike not been used for a while the clutch plates may be stuck together. I had that problem when I got my bike as it was in storage for a long time. If it won't turn, it's electrical, check the sensor switches on the clutch and on the neutral switch
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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 22, 2013 17:01:03 GMT
Thanks for your replys people, I'll try it in the day light, and I'll let you know what happens.
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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 26, 2013 14:18:41 GMT
Well a pigs ear has been made of clutch adjustment,can you tell me how to do adjustment as from putting new cable in so I can start afresh.?
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Post by bobh on Nov 27, 2013 20:19:03 GMT
The clutch release mechanism (in the clutch housing, r.h.s. of engine) has a couple of known weaknesses. If either of these faults are present no amount of adjusting of the cable will give clean clutch operation.
These "issues" are the clutch release bearing (behind the clutch assembly), which doesn't get enough oil splash so can wear out prematurely, and the spindle that goes through the top of the casing, the one with the lever on it that the cable pulls on. You can check the spindle easily - see if there is any sideways play when you push it fore and aft. If there is, the bearing and/or spindle are worn and will need to be replaced, together with the oil seal. Once play has developed, water can past the seal and corrode the bearing, accelerating the rate of wear, so once it's started to go, it will only get worse quite quickly. Also once water starts to get in you'll get a build-up of "mayonnaise" in the oil, and other things (like the aforementioned release bearing) will start to corrode and wear.
There's quite a lot of advice on replacing the release bearing in previous posts - do a search for "clutch release bearing".
Another thing that affects clutch action quite markedly is stickiness in the cable. If the inner lining isn't too worn (you can't inspect this, it's mainly a matter of how much use the clutch gets, so a commuter in heavy traffic will wear more rapidly than a bike that's used on the open road with fewer gearchanges and stops), and the cable itself isn't frayed, then plenty of lubrication should sort it. Clearly a bike that's kept outside, and used in the wet, will need more frequent lubrication than one that stays dry. If it is worn you need a new cable. I'd got used to what I just thought was heavy clutch action and clunky changes on my FZ6 - then I fitted a new cable and was amazed at the difference - it's now slicker than an oily oil slick.
One other thing to check, though it shouldn't have moved unless someone's had the clutch cover off in the past, is the angle of the lever on the release spindle (the one on the top of the clutch housing) - the angle between the cable and the lever should be less than a right-angle - maybe 70-80 degrees - when the clutch lever is released. That way you have the maximum leverage (90 degrees) when the clutch lever is pulled right back to the bar.
If you are satisfied that your bike is OK in all these respects, then adjust the cable (at either end, though the lever end is obviously more accessible) so there's a couple of mm free play (maybe 10-15 mm at the ball end of the lever) before the cable starts to become taut.
I hope all this makes sense.
It sounds as if you might find it helpful to refer to Mr Haynes' essential manual, which includes most of this stuff - either a paper copy or a download. Also Reaper's DVD, though I don't have mine anymore so I'm not sure exactly what it covers.
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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 27, 2013 22:06:47 GMT
Thanks bob, I'll let you know what's going on soon.cheers
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Post by flaskman1 on Nov 29, 2013 13:01:27 GMT
A totally shot thrust bearing, that seems to have been the problem, I'll let you know when I pick it up, chaps
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Post by CD on Dec 1, 2013 13:27:29 GMT
Almost no oil ever gets to the release bearing so the pressure plate also gets scored. Clean the pressure plate, use a thrust washer on both sides of the thrust bearing and use high temperature grease.
Also as Bob says, the release mechanism wears. Strip the clutch actuating shaft and replace any flat bearings and the oil seal. Grease the bearings with the same hight temperature grease.
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