vmas
CBT failure
Posts: 13
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Post by vmas on Dec 20, 2010 19:37:35 GMT
Cleaned My Carbs out today, god how dirty were the float bowls, anyhow also found the Carb Inlet rubbers had great big splits in them £54 for new ones,Yamaha Rip off Gits , But what a difference its made to the starting and cold start running.
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Post by camy1960 on Dec 21, 2010 21:20:25 GMT
;D put the key i nthe ignition to start it and let it run only to find the ignition was frozen solid so on to plan B back inside where its lovely and warm ;D
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Post by amorti on Dec 22, 2010 8:35:59 GMT
;D put the key i nthe ignition to start it and let it run only to find the ignition was frozen solid so on to plan B back inside where its lovely and warm ;D Use a lighter to warm up your key, dip this in the lock a few times til thawed. Sorted
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Post by camy1960 on Dec 31, 2010 15:09:01 GMT
cheers amorti, got bored while on holiday so gave it 10 mins of hairdryer and thawed out, started and ran ok so back inside where its lovely and warm.
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Post by school man on Jan 1, 2011 17:44:08 GMT
fitted some oxford hot grpis. now just need to take bike out to test them.
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Post by Deeps on Jan 8, 2011 19:59:03 GMT
Fitted a 12v auxiliary socket under the seat And found out it really is easier to take one side of the wing rack off before trying to remove the side panel. A little extra work to start with makes the whole job much easier in the end. Dave
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Post by TwoHat on Jan 29, 2011 17:21:30 GMT
Charged the battery. Removed the seat prior to taking side panel off, and was startled by a scratting sound and rapid movement. Found a mouse had built a nest inside a rag I keep under the seat! Cheeky blighter! Then spotted what looked like a cable-tie poking out of the back light - grabbed it to see what it was attached to, and it turned out to be the mouse's tail! The little bngger has chewed through the main feed to my heated grips, so I've had to repair that, can't find any other damage though. Battery charged up ready for the warm weather now (may have to do it again before it gets properly warm though - could be weeks yet )
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Post by coastaldivvy on Mar 12, 2011 15:40:46 GMT
Finished fitting new brake pads and bled system. Drained engine oil and changed filter - still got to refill oil Changed fuel filter looked for best position to fit a 12vlt power outlet and couldnt make my mind up. Still got to change airfilter Get new rear B45 tyre fitted to match new one on the front
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Jona
Boy Racer
Posts: 242
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Post by Jona on Mar 12, 2011 22:42:58 GMT
Had a pair of link pipes made and fitted Beouwolfs cans. definitly much better burble but will need ear plugs on long trips and that is with baffles in! next step is rejetting and put on the dyno to set it up properly I hope. Jona
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Post by bobby5930 on Mar 17, 2011 20:36:04 GMT
Hi everyone, updated the oil cooler pipes on my Divvy 6 today. There is already stuff on here about this process but I think I have worked out the cheapest / easiest way of sorting out a leak in the aforementioned pipes. To try and remove the old ones is a pain! The engine mount covers one of the allen key bolts rather nicely so dont try and take them off, instead cut the steel pipe just below the rubber flexi hose using a 15mm coper pipe cutter used for household plumbing, that way you get a nice clean cut in the pipe and no nasty bits of steel going down the pipe into the engine. Once this has been done you can cut the steel pipe above the flexihose with a junior hacksaw (the pipe cutter will not turn around pipe at this point, its too tight, however there is no risk of cuttings entering the engine as the bottom part of the pipe has already been cut). Then just bridge the gap with some fuel grade rubber pipe (10mm bore) and secure with jubilee clips. Cost me less than a fiver!! ;D
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vmas
CBT failure
Posts: 13
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Post by vmas on Mar 19, 2011 21:45:19 GMT
Hi all now fitted electric fuel pump to help with starting and new speedo drive because the other one stopped working for some reason
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Post by amorti on Mar 20, 2011 21:01:19 GMT
Hi all now fitted electric fuel pump to help with starting and new speedo drive because the other one stopped working for some reason If they fail it's usually because someone got unlucky and fit the wheel in cack-handedly, resulting in the alignment tabs getting bent/broken. Also maybe worth a mention? I heard on some bikes the gears in there are made of nylon, so you should only use silicon grease as mineral grease attacks the plastic over time. Only hearsay, I never saw it myself.
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Post by mattytowel on Mar 21, 2011 20:49:56 GMT
Phoned Pitstop in Lowton to check cost them doing new fork seals and oil. £40 inc labour. Maybe I'll get gaiters as well.
Now need to see where my biggest rucksac is and some bin bags, so I can take them there on my predivvy tomorrow during my half lunch hour.
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Post by showaddydadito on Apr 18, 2011 10:22:36 GMT
Today? nothing.
Yesterday though, I set about curing the oil dripping from the airbox drain, which comes out just behind the rear brake pedal.
Following advice on this site (can't remember where I found it now), I took off the airbox. The breathers from the top of the gearbox and the top of the engine were well filled with the mayonnaise you get when condensation emulsifies in the oil. I drew a small rag through on a soft wire. Cleaned out the air box. Reassembled.
She was already running nice and smooth, but after I'd done this I had a quick burn up the bypass and she is now eeeeeeven smoooother running. Smooth as a moth's nose. Smooth as the inner surface of an almond on the tip of your tonge when you split it in two in your mouth. Smooth as good quality port that has been matured in brandy barrels.
Nice.
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Post by showaddydadito on Apr 29, 2011 9:04:13 GMT
Straightened the handlebars.
I guess there was a heavy drop sometime in its past. The forks were all straight, but the handlebar was bent and the right hand was about an inch up and an inch back compared to the left. Only a minor inconvenience, but annoying - made my right arm tense after a distance.
Tip for doing the job: To avoid damaging the bar by gripping it inappropriately, drill a 22mm hole through a big chunk of wood, and shove the bar into that as far as the curve. Hold this block in a vise and then select a suitable method of moving the other end in a suitable direction. Don't hit it, just push or pull.
BTW it takes a hell of a pull/push to have any effect. I did some by putting a car jack between the front of the bench and the bar, and some by using well anchored ratchet straps to pull a different direction.
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Grumbleweed
Boy Racer
Grumbleweed, 2009 model XJ6S, brought new in 2010.
Posts: 229
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Post by Grumbleweed on Apr 30, 2011 19:10:20 GMT
Today I pretended my XJ6S was a sportbike and had a blast collecting flies and midges on my new helmet.....nice.
Graham.
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Post by showaddydadito on May 3, 2011 7:28:23 GMT
Took off the clutch lever, reamed out the pivot hole and put a steel sleeve in it. Trued up the rest of the bracket.
Now the clutch lever doesn't have an inch and a half of vertical play - nice.
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Post by amorti on May 3, 2011 7:41:24 GMT
Took off the clutch lever, reamed out the pivot hole and put a steel sleeve in it. Trued up the rest of the bracket. Now the clutch lever doesn't have an inch and a half of vertical play - nice. Much better, eh? I fixed it by using the lever assembly off a Honda (eg. CB500 or Revere) which has a 10mm bush inside as standard. I did have to get the mirror hole re-cut and use new electrical connectors though. The machinist said he worked out the thread was something weird that is equivalent to a seatbelt bolt?! Whatever he did, it worked.
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Post by meerkat on May 3, 2011 14:29:58 GMT
Ordered set of forks number 3 Arranged delivery to the garage who will order another set of fork seals and fit them for me in the new top and bottom yokes after fitting the new down pipes and collector and clutch cable. My cleap buy no longer looks so cheap.
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qtws
Harley Rider
Posts: 93
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Post by qtws on May 7, 2011 18:33:39 GMT
Cut through the rear engine mounting bolt with a hacksaw blade at the RHS of the spacer, pulled out the LHS 2/3 bolt (minus bolt head), tapped out the right hand side 1/3, along with "damper, engine mount 2" and removed the engine from the frame (had to remove rocker cover... ) Currently looking up part nos. for said damper and the mounting bolt. The 2/3 of the old bolt makes a fine drift for the lower headstock bearing race....
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Post by Flymo on May 7, 2011 19:57:15 GMT
Cut through the rear engine mounting bolt with a hacksaw blade at the RHS of the spacer, pulled out the LHS 2/3 bolt (minus bolt head), tapped out the right hand side 1/3, along with "damper, engine mount 2" and removed the engine from the frame (had to remove rocker cover... ) Currently looking up part nos. for said damper and the mounting bolt. The 2/3 of the old bolt makes a fine drift for the lower headstock bearing race.... Fun aint it cutting that bolt ;D unless you've got a spare arm or leg good luck on getting hold of that bolt... mine was nearly £30 from yamaha
Oh And today my D6 did pass it's MOT with a couple of advisories, 1. front tyre nearly to the wear limit... (but i knew that anyway) 2. slight blowing on exhaust. Jobs a good un if you ask me ;D Flymo
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Post by simon88 on May 8, 2011 21:45:12 GMT
Tried to fit another air box today and still no joy so bike still going to be running lumpy along the motorway to work, getting annoyed now..............
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Post by meerkat on May 15, 2011 7:51:52 GMT
Got my 900 back in one piece ;D ;D
now in my garage ready for its first good clean, oil up and tidy up. ;D
Time to actually ride it ;D
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Post by jonnyrotten on May 18, 2011 19:43:08 GMT
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Post by jonnyrotten on May 18, 2011 19:46:46 GMT
Yesterday i had the clutch cover off to replace the thrust bearing (thankfully no other damage) once that was done it was new oil and filter time and then new chain and sprockets (very very badly worn). I will now be glad to get back out and ride it as due to the clutch problems and a bad back she has not been ridden in about 6 weeks, all done with the help of my boss in his garage!!!! ;D
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Post by ateyercheese on May 19, 2011 17:06:03 GMT
Long time since I've been on here, but now the beast reconstruction is in full flow, Yesterday I re-layed the loom. Here's a tip. figure out how it threads in and round and out of the frame/undertray before you start remounting/reattaching connectors.......)
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Post by m40man on May 20, 2011 21:55:55 GMT
Yesterday I adjusted the mirrors on my D9 so they didn't hit the touring screen on full lock.
Then tonight I changed the screen to see if buffeting is less (put standard on, touring one rattles my head a bit at speed.)
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Post by DahDit on May 20, 2011 22:46:14 GMT
So tomorrow you'll be posting that you moved the mirrors back to their original position I guess? Yawn. ;D I played with my bike today, then rode it to within an inch of it's life.
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Post by DahDit on May 20, 2011 22:47:46 GMT
Yes, yes, being a Guzzi....that was about 2 miles down the road.
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Post by m40man on May 20, 2011 22:58:04 GMT
So tomorrow you'll be posting that you moved the mirrors back to their original position I guess? Nope. Mirrors are fine as they are . Just happy to be able to post on this thread at last . .......... what are doing on here, you ex-D9 owner ?
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