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Post by General Gman on Jun 12, 2009 13:02:24 GMT
 - there's no way it would be undersprung... if you've ridden a ZX9 (or any Kwak sports bike from the 90s) you'll know what I mean.Yes, it works on a linkage, but it is as stiff as a stiff thing that's gone all stiff thinking about Kylie in gold hotpants. Mine regularly tries to kick my kidneys out of my body over the smallest bumps. SteveZX7r - I haven't tried fitting it to a divvy - it's off my ZX9 which has a later shock on with a longer free length and more adjustment. Ah yes, I do love my Kawasaki's. I've had three 7r's throughout the years, each of varying capabilities - but they always had stiff rear springs. Fantastic front ends (it's true what they say) but the back end let them down (that plus the weight they carried). My final 7r (my race bike) was fully tricked with Ohlins front/rear and my god it was good ;D So, back into bikes after a few years off and here I am sanding down forks from a diversion, oh how the mighty have fallen ;D Ste. Thankfully, my '9 is from the year when they made them lighter, so it's about 20kg lighter than a 7R with a fair old hike in power (147 claimed bhp, 135 at the wheel.) Back end is far too harsh, though, |
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Post by stevezx7r on Jun 16, 2009 14:43:37 GMT
If anyone has a few minutes, could you measure the outside diameter of your exhaust. I need everything from the collector where the four down pipes go into two plus any noticable changes along the line to where the exhaust meets the end cans.
It's just so I can get a rough idea of what I'll need to build the 4-2-1 underseat system (although I may move from that idea into making a high level one sided system).
Thanks in advance,
Steve.
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Post by CD on Jun 17, 2009 13:14:19 GMT
Or dry sump the engine and fit a shallow oil pan with an oil tank behind the cylinders. Then there would be room for the exhaust under the engine with a shorty exit cone from under the swing arm. :-)
Dont make the headers any shorter down to the Y joints and the distance to the cross-over is also important. A google search might pull up a header pipe design calculator.
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Post by cholmondly on Jun 22, 2009 17:59:58 GMT
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Post by CD on Jun 23, 2009 11:03:09 GMT
They'll be by Delkevic (from Stoke). I have their downpipes and collector on my 900. They fitted easily and so far no problems in nearly 2 years use.
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Post by bomeister on Jun 23, 2009 11:33:03 GMT
I fitted a pair couple of months ago. The initial set had centres way off on one pair, but Delkevic had a new set to me the next day. They look great and I have been very pleased with the result coupled with a pair of Marvings. Only thing to watch is that the diameter of the output pipe is greater than standard, and is designed to couple directly to standard pattern silencers without the seal. This does reduce positioning the silencers somewhat. The whole system should be fitted without putting strain on the head connections, as this will eventually and inevitably lead to problems.
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Post by cholmondly on Jun 23, 2009 16:03:00 GMT
So would it be possible to order these straight from Delkevic, and cut out the middle man ?  |
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Post by bomeister on Jun 23, 2009 16:20:51 GMT
I got mine from D K Motorcycles, which is part of Delkkevic at a really good price. Worth a try.
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Post by bomeister on Jun 23, 2009 16:27:17 GMT
ps You might have to get a set of exhaust port gaskets, as the free ones they supplied did not fit.
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Post by CD on Jun 24, 2009 8:13:38 GMT
I got mine form Sandy Bike Spares in Bedfordshire. They were cheaper than Delkevic and they threw in the gaskets for free.
For doing a special system these would be an ideal starting point. The pipe diameter and length to the Y joint is critical.
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Post by cholmondly on Jul 6, 2009 17:29:00 GMT
ps You might have to get a set of exhaust port gaskets, as the free ones they supplied did not fit. ok, so I've got the pipes now and tried a dry fit of the port gaskets-they seem to be ok diameter wise-but do seem a little 'fat' although they have small grooves that will concertina I think, I have the standard cans which dont have slits on their 'entry' side, do the downpipe 'exits' just sit in there?or is there a tapered gasket missing ?, and also how much were your 'Marvings', any help appreciated muchos |
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Post by bomeister on Jul 6, 2009 19:17:53 GMT
I got my Marvings from Wemoto at an old (lower) price than currently listed, but they give a really nice sound. Had to put a controlled ding in the left one though to stop the chain kissing it on yumps. No margin for adjusting due to the solid connection with the headers. If there is a gap of an eighth of an inch or so between your headers and silencers you may need the standard joining gaskets, also available from Wemoto, with two types available, the metal matrix may give a little adjustment in fitting.
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Post by pilgrim on Jul 6, 2009 20:21:15 GMT
cholmondly, I think bomeister might have paid as little as £188 for them, like I did. They were £272 last time I looked.
They do sleeve directly onto standard headers. When I've had reason to take them off I've put them back in place with all bolts and nuts then securely tightened the exhaust pipes first, then the silencers. The Marvings then 'adjust' slightly to the header positions. I tighten the clamps between the two last.
Only downer with Marvings is the quality of chrome. All welded brackets and seams show surface rust very quickly. Have to stay on top of it constantly and I take the whole system off at least twice a year to thoroughly clean it.
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Post by cholmondly on Jul 8, 2009 17:02:16 GMT
Thanks for the info CD and Bomeister, update, already had ordered SS downpipes from DK motorcycles, have ordered SS silencer replacements fron SandyBS, £109 for pipes,£219 for cans, so I'm happy with the cost, was thinking of going 4-1 but I like the look of the twins |
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Post by sparky@TLB on Jul 8, 2009 22:21:53 GMT
I have got the 4 in 1 Sandy bike spaires exhaust, all i got to do is fit them.Yamaha exhaust manifold nuts don't you just love'em .
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Post by CD on Jul 15, 2009 10:21:23 GMT
Lots and lots of Plus Gas on the threads *should* help. Then get some stainless dome nuts to replace Yamaha's weird socket nuts.
Edit - Another thought -
If you have access to an arc welder, cover the engine and frame to protect from sparks and disconnect the alternator and regulator.
Run a bead of weld on the side of any siezed header stud nuts avoiding the hex socket in the front end of the nut.
The localised heat should break the thread siezure allowing the nut to unscrew. Its worth loosening the nut while hot, then wait until cooled before using more plusgas. This will help to avoid dry areas of thread from picking up and stripping.
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- there's no way it would be undersprung... if you've ridden a ZX9 (or any Kwak sports bike from the 90s) you'll know what I mean.Yes, it works on a linkage, but it is as stiff as a stiff thing that's gone all stiff thinking about Kylie in gold hotpants.
