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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 30, 2014 19:49:27 GMT
Mad a little progress this week, Just a reminder of the bike The dash is supposed to be the same colour as the bike,   I had to remove the gearbox due to slightly rough output bearings, only takes a couple of hours, but as I had most of the rear stripped anyhow, it was 20 mins, I probably went a bit far,  The rear subframe needed a little welding, then painting,  I actually managed to buy a decent dash panel in the right colour and put the dash and fairing panels together, and fitted the roll bar that protects the headlight, re fitted the repaired headlight and the clocks, ready to fit the lot back to the bike, then gasped at how heavy it all was, and so high up was the weight that I decided not to fit it, so I am going to go simpler and lighter, Today was a day spent sorting out the electrics, so disintegrating cloth loom was unwrapped, all the plugs and sockets were replaced, with the wires stripped back to good and corroded parts removed and replaced, as the loom was hidden under the clocks, I moved it to under the tank area and just need to extend the few circuits that actually need to be in the dash area, indicators, warning lamps and the headlight circuit, which I was going to relay low and high beam using micro relays anyway, The connector block for the ignition switch was badly corroded, I figured that rather than renew with a much larger block that I had, I would simply cut the loom back to good wire and solder and cover with heat shrink, once it is proved to work correctly then I will use silicon grease to seal out moisture in all of the connector blocks, I also replaced some wiring done badly, and still have the a little more to do, mainly where much higher rated wire had been soldered to low rated original loom wire, And of course fit a direct earth from the battery to the Dash area and fit the fused battery wire used as a feed to the headlight, which will be a common H4 7 inch round light, Despite all the corroded wire and joints, the electrics worked fine before, which was surprising! Maybe we should have a restoration section! |
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Post by DahDit on Apr 30, 2014 20:30:06 GMT
Very envious from Beverley. That's a proper GS worth having.  |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Apr 30, 2014 20:33:00 GMT
Maybe we should have a restoration section! Or considering Bev/Bevys latest purchase a "resurrection" section  Neil |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 1, 2014 16:30:40 GMT
More wiring replaced in the hour I had this morning, this was the side lamp wire, it was soldered correctly, but went from normal loom wire to 27amp wire, then through scotch locks, now replaced with the wall 6 amp wire,  |
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2014 19:08:07 GMT
I think a restoration section is a great idea! |
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Post by DahDit on May 5, 2014 19:19:31 GMT
For bikes or owners? |
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Post by Pops on May 6, 2014 6:01:54 GMT
For bikes or owners? or owners of bikes |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 6, 2014 14:08:28 GMT
This is a picture of the pushrod tubes, as you can see there is some damage to the seals, resulting in a small oil leak, not to be confused by the oil pressure switch on the right, which also is leaking,sorry about the carp Iphone pictures in advance!  box of goodies from ebay Germany!  nice low use barrels and pistons!  and an extra 200cc bigger!  so part of the plan is to fit the larger barrels and pistons from a 1000cc bike, to give it a boost in mid range torque! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 6, 2014 15:07:05 GMT
I also like to replace all the heavy duty cabling, here I have removed the main starter cable, apart from one of the ends being a bit eaten, it was in surprisingly good condition,the old one is on the left, I had to cut it to get the seal that keeps water out of the starter housing off and put it on the new red one!  the earth lead to the gearbox will also be replaced, but I plan on doing a small modification to where its fitted on the gearbox,here is the correct factory location,held in by the bolt that holds the speedo cable in,  problem is that the bolt is also the gearbox vent bolt, which means it has a hole right through it, it's prone to damage either by stripping the gearbox thread, or snapping, its only a small M6 bolt at that, so my plan is to move it to a M8 bolt that has a nut on it on the other side of the gearbox, so the earth lead will be around a foot longer than standard! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 6, 2014 19:05:13 GMT
I think this thread now needs moved! Late on today I decided to have a look at the starter motor, it was a screechy motor, so I knew it needed at least a good clean, unfortunately there was a bit of casting broke off and missing, not that it effects it's operation, so I have ordered a new motor, but as a spare I will be refurbing the old one,  It's made by valeo, and quite common as it's used on many French and small uk cars, only the BMW one to be different runs backwards compared to the car ones, all the spare parts are the same, so at least they are easy to source, first job pull the cover over the brushes,  The brushes have a small Formica cover to stop them shorting out the bushes were removed and are around 12mm in length, new brushes are near to 20mm, so I have ordered the rebuild kit, a full £8.50 delivered from Ireland, tomorrow I will remove the front shroud and clean out the splines between the pinion and starter shaft and give it a thin coat of spline grease, I guess the rebuild kit will arrive early next week! |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on May 6, 2014 19:07:08 GMT
Admin has to ask the original poser poster first  Neil |
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Post by m40man on May 6, 2014 19:10:23 GMT
Admin has to ask the original poser poster first Neil Other way round, my mis-understanding chum  . |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 7, 2014 7:55:39 GMT
so this morning I took the starter apart cleaned the mechanism and lightly lubed with some spline grease!   then set it aside waiting for the new brushes! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 8, 2014 10:24:23 GMT
When I bought the Gs, it came with a file full of paperwork, so today I had a proper look through, I had assumed that the 30k miles on the clock were the second bite of the cherry, so 130k miles, but that is not so, it was first registered in Oman in the middle east to a British army soldier, it was imported into the UK in 1993, but the speedo was changed in 1999, originally sporting a Km clock, which went up to 80k kilometers or 50k miles, the replacement used Mph speedo has 30k miles and started out with 3.5k miles, so the bike has done around 77k miles, when the speedo was changed it had a rebuilt head, with new valves and guides, also it had a new cam chain and tensioners fitted, all around 28k miles ago! another old girl I picked up a few weeks ago! this one had done 57k miles, but had a top end overhaul, new cam chain, clutch and carb rebuild in the last 1000 miles, it's to replace my R80RT that has only covered 23k miles, which I either sell, or I will remove the fairing and make it into something interesting come the winter!   |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 8, 2014 10:30:04 GMT
I can't really progress the Gs until some of the stuff on order arrives, even then a lot is held up until my gearbox comes back, today I removed the corroded bolts that held on the bridge that the low front mudguard fits to, it's quite rusty, and will need the attention of my grit blasting cabinet, I had to drill out the bolts and run a tap through!  then it will need a skim of filler to smooth out the pits before painting! |
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Post by teejayexc on May 8, 2014 10:36:03 GMT
another old girl I picked up a few weeks ago! this one had done 57k miles, but had a top end overhaul, new cam chain, clutch and carb rebuild in the last 1000 miles, it's to replace my R80RT that has only covered 23k miles, which I either sell, or I will remove the fairing and make it into something interesting come the winter! You Sir, are such a fecking tart. That is all.. |
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Post by Deleted on May 8, 2014 11:06:32 GMT
another old girl I picked up a few weeks ago! this one had done 57k miles, but had a top end overhaul, new cam chain, clutch and carb rebuild in the last 1000 miles, it's to replace my R80RT that has only covered 23k miles, which I either sell, or I will remove the fairing and make it into something interesting come the winter! You Sir, are such a fecking tart. That is all.. Jealous ? Get your hand in your pocket and start your own resto, you know you want to*. * I am taking no blame for your marital strife if you take my advice. |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 8, 2014 15:19:24 GMT
The new starter motor turned up today!  so I fitted it!  I then polished me pipes, can you guess which one I have done?  The new stainless collector came today as well, it's the wrong one, it's to fit the 1000cc Gs,and doesn't fit the downpipes, but no matter I can adjust it and sort it later!  |
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Post by teejayexc on May 8, 2014 16:32:06 GMT
The new starter motor turned up today! so I fitted it! I then polished me pipes, can you guess which one I have done? The new stainless collector came today as well, it's the wrong one, it's to fit the 1000cc Gs,and doesn't fit the downpipes, but no matter I can adjust it and sort it later! That's not a resto, (apart from the downpipes), you're replacing with new. It's like calling a fitter, fitting new bits, an injuneer ! Trouble with you north western types is you have too much wonga. |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 8, 2014 17:12:32 GMT
[quote author=" teejayexc" source That's not a resto, (apart from the downpipes), you're replacing with new. It's like calling a fitter, fitting new bits, an injuneer ! Trouble with you north western types is you have too much wonga.[/quote] Shut it tight arse!  If you remember back the casting on the old one is damaged, that's why it was replaced, replacing damaged and worn out parts is all part of the reconditioning process, Time to investigate a slight oil leak that has covered the ignition unit it oil, so time to remove the alternator!  Alternators on old BMW's are the same as those on old guzzi's, you remove the bolt holding the rotor, which is the copper looking thing in the middle, fit a hardened longer bolt, then tighten up, a sharp tap with a ball pein hammer and the rotor is loose, only on this one no hammer was needed, then remove the 3 screws holding the stator to the timing cover and remove both the stator and rotor together keeping the carbon brushes on the rotor, it's a little difficult to see in the picture, but the seal is skewed in the housing,  So the timing cover needs to be removed, that means the ignition trigger and diode board have to be removed! And a new seal, cover gasket and other seals for the timing cover needed to be ordered, though I will wait until the cover has been removed in case anything else needs replacing! |
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Post by teejayexc on May 8, 2014 17:50:57 GMT
Be quicker if you just bought a new bike, with all them 'new' bits your ordering |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 8, 2014 18:17:59 GMT
Be quicker if you just bought a new bike, with all them 'new' bits your ordering Whatever! |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on May 8, 2014 18:28:52 GMT
Trouble with you north western types is you have too much wonga. Its not that but bikes are bloody cheap up there like houses. Still looking for a good cheap 125 see them on fleabay ,gumtree ,autotrader or MCN & they are all up north down here they are either carp or toooo much  Neil PS anyone got one |
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Post by Deleted on May 8, 2014 18:35:49 GMT
teejayexc said:
"Be quicker if you just bought a new bike, with all them 'new' bits your ordering "
But no fun! And this way we all get to enjoy a great thread 
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 9, 2014 14:45:46 GMT
Today i removed what is commonly called the "bean can", it's where the trigger for the electronic ignition, plus the advance mechanism lives, on older models it house the points! there it is at the bottom of the picture  and removed!  once unplugged from the loom, I decided to take it apart to clean and make sure the advance unit was free moving, I removed the end cover screws, then the top bush mounting plate, then turned over to extract the pin out of the front drive,  only it wouldn't come out, in the end I gave up and re mounted the top bush, using the two screws  then spent the next couple of hours wondering why every time I tightened the two screws, the unit would seize, in the end I figured that the screws were loctited in at a point which allowed the mechanism to turn, but kept movement forward and backwards at a minimum, I will check it with a strobe once the engine is running, to ascertain that the advance is working correctly! so having failed at that, I checked the new collector Y piece against the collector box that came off the bike, new ones of these are unobtainable for this model, though you can get a reproduction one for the earlier R80G/s I did consider re welding the collector just to please that winger from Lincolnshire, for about 2 seconds it got a bit bashed about when removed!  and the other side!  it was supposed to all fit to the original silencer, which appears outwardly to be in fine condition!   but there is something seriously wrong internally, so I will have to think on that one, I finished off the day by tidying up the BMW on the starter cover, that I sprayed a few weeks ago! |
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on May 9, 2014 16:44:20 GMT
All this work in so few days I think you have tooooo much time on your hands Neil |
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2014 17:49:51 GMT
Great thread and I think you're doing a sterling job |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 9, 2014 18:39:49 GMT
Seems like I have not been hard enough on the pin, I will re visit it next week and beat the carp out of it!
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 12, 2014 12:16:41 GMT
early start on the Gs, so remove the diode pack, taking a picture of where all the leads go to,  then remove all screws fixing the timing chain cover!  revealing the timing chain, tensioners and allowing access to the oil seal,  bang out the seal, fit new and put the timing cover back on, re fit the diode pack, connecting the wires back up, clean and fit the stator and rotor, after checking the brush length, they were un worn,  old Bmw's are not endowed with the greatest of charging systems, max 17amp on this one, I may have to either consider upgrading to a 28amp alternator, or an alternative would be to replace bulbs with Led versions to conserve power, if I want to utilise heated clothing when adventuring,  the new brush assembly arrived from Ireland, so fitted to the spare starter motor, during coffee break, fiddly job holding it all together,   then test it, it all works fine, spinns over and is quiet! |
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Post by HRHpenfold on May 12, 2014 12:18:41 GMT
Seems like I have not been hard enough on the pin, I will re visit it next week and beat the carp out of it! I tried beating the life out of it, but still no go, no matter, i can check its operating correctly and replace if it's not, either with a used one, or a new one with electronic advance! |
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