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Post by trancer on Mar 23, 2013 21:40:12 GMT
Hi all im new to the forum, im just about to get my first big bike on the road since passing my test in December but i have one major problem, the bike starts fine and runs well and even revs up nice when stationery but as soon as i take it down the road for a spin, it seems to bog under badly after 2.5k revs, if i run the throttle wide open, it gradually gets better then comes alive around 5-6k revs but soon drops off again when i slow down, hill climbs are almost impossible
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2013 21:47:52 GMT
Clutch slipping?
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Post by trancer on Mar 23, 2013 21:56:53 GMT
Clutch is very good on the bike and looked fine when i sorted the oil drive rattle last week, it seems the mid range power band is effected, if i go lightly with the throttle and stay below 2.5k revs everything seems normal
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Post by rowlf on Mar 23, 2013 22:55:41 GMT
Sounds a bit like icing in the carbs. I used to get that in my 900 although I am not sure if the 600 is as prone to the problem. Check the carb heating system which is by engine oil in up to 1995 models or by electric heaters 1996 on.
It could also be fuel supply problems. Clogged fuel filter, fuel lines or even low float levels in the carbs. The fuel pump (vacuum up to 1995) or (electric 1996 on) is another candidate. Especially the vacuum pump. They can lose vacuum if the pipes are loose or split or if they just get old.
I would start by checking the fuel filter and fuel lines, then the carb heating system, considering the weather. After that it gets a bit harder.
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Post by trancer on Mar 24, 2013 13:48:26 GMT
thanks for the reply, i have the 1998 XJ 600, this morning i went out and checked the float levels which seem fine, i noticed that cylinder 1 and 2 weren't doing very well, C1 was clean with no deposits and C2 was white (Lean) C3 and C4 was a nice tanned colour which is normal, i stripped down the failing carbs and cleaned out all the jets and reassembled everything, the bike was no different, all the header pipes are getting hot at the same time though, it's driving me mad!
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Post by m40man on Mar 24, 2013 14:02:54 GMT
If you're happy with the carb clean it would point to either breaking-down ignition leads/caps, or a coil on the way out. Are your C1 & C2 on the same coil ?? (I think C1 & C3 should share, but it's worth checking).
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Post by trancer on Mar 24, 2013 14:14:27 GMT
I have been thinking about the coils, left coil is 1&4 and right coil is 2&3, with the bike running i can hold on to C1 plug and i get a small amount of currant but its the same when i give it some revs, im wondering if replacing the coils might help, the bike has been sitting for 2 years before i bought it
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Post by trancer on Mar 24, 2013 14:14:42 GMT
I have been thinking about the coils, left coil is 1&4 and right coil is 2&3, with the bike running i can hold on to C1 plug and i get a small amount of currant but its the same when i give it some revs, im wondering if replacing the coils might help, the bike has been sitting for 2 years before i bought it
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Post by m40man on Mar 24, 2013 14:32:40 GMT
As they'e on separate coils, C1 & C2, consider replacing their plug caps first. A cheap thing to do.
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Post by trancer on Mar 24, 2013 16:06:18 GMT
Thanks for the reply's, just grabbed a bargain on ebay and bought nice clean carbs, rubbers and coils for £40, the guy is also throwing in a load of free parts, just hope it solves my problem,
I was just wondering if the TPS would give the same trouble without giving any fault code on the clock
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Post by CD on Mar 25, 2013 8:34:30 GMT
Has it still got the restrictors in place?
How do you know the clutch is ok?
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Post by trancer on Mar 25, 2013 12:18:59 GMT
There's no restrictors and the clutch is great, you can hear the bike running on 2 cylinders under load, but as soon as its idling again its perfect, its definitely a strange one, iv cleaned the carbs out and put a new fuel filter
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Post by bobh on Mar 25, 2013 21:30:09 GMT
I had a somewhat similar problem with my Thundercat after it had been standing for a few weeks. I turned out the pilot jets were partially clogged up with a sort of gel that was left after the petrol (95 octane from Asda) evaporated. At first glance they appeared to be clear, but in the end squirting them through with carb cleaner solvent from an aerosol did the job.
Now I always try to put 97/98 octane fuel in if I know it'll be standing for more than a week or so.
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Post by CD on Mar 26, 2013 16:38:32 GMT
The sparks are the easiest to diagnose then move to the carbs. Fit new plugs (unless already new) then swap the coils over and see if the miss-fire moves.
Posh petrol from such as Shell will help keep things clean but on a carb fed Diversion wont do anything for performance.
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Post by trancer on Mar 26, 2013 21:38:57 GMT
Iv got fresh petrol in the tank and new plugs, next im trying a set of known working coils, after that il move onto the carbs, il keep you all posted, thanks for the reply's everyone
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Post by trancer on Apr 1, 2013 13:44:06 GMT
Problem solved! after replacing the carbs the problem has gone completely, very odd because the original ones were spotlessly clean, the only small problem i have now is a bit of popping from the exhaust when cold, i think the carbs need synchronizing
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Post by rowlf on Apr 1, 2013 15:29:29 GMT
Wow, well done with solving that one trancer. That sounded like a real nightmare to deal with. It is a good idea to synchronize the carbs regularly. The bike always runs so much better when that is done, better mpg usually as well as smoothing out that mid range vibration. I use a set of these, which make it a really easy job. Ebay 180998500558 Funny but every time I have used them one carb is always a bit out. I just used them on my new XJ600 and again, one was a bit out. It sounds really smooth now and next to no vibrations at 3000 to 4000 revs, which is where it normally happens. Good luck with it all now. Rowlf
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Post by trancer on Apr 1, 2013 17:22:40 GMT
Thanks for the info Rowlf, went and bought myself a Morgan carbtune pro, iv heard some good things about them and always handy to have, im looking forward to seeing the results too
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Post by rowlf on Apr 1, 2013 18:25:26 GMT
Indeed an excellent bit of kit the Morgan Carbtune. A fair bit more sophisticated than 4 dial gauges screwed to a bit of aluminum and a lot more compact too. A good choice! Be interested to hear how you get on and how well it runs after you synched (sank? ) it. Rowlf
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Post by CD on Apr 1, 2013 20:39:00 GMT
The cards are balanced in pairs so you don't need 4 gauges. This simply compares the suction. Do one pair, then the other pair, finally do the 2 pairs. www.twinmax.co.uk/ A rubber listening hose also also works to compare the bellmouth pop pop sounds and costs 2p.
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Post by trancer on Apr 2, 2013 11:30:26 GMT
If i can il get a video of the bike running before and after the tune up, im hoping to see some good results
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2013 11:38:21 GMT
You won't regret buying the Morgan Carbtune. They make a tricky job easy. Oh, and well done with the fault-finding and spannering
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Post by trancer on Apr 2, 2013 19:19:10 GMT
You won't regret buying the Morgan Carbtune. They make a tricky job easy. Oh, and well done with the fault-finding and spannering Thanks matey I heard that the Morgan carbtune was the best and that they no longer use mercury, instead they now use rods which can also be cleaned if any dirt gets inside the device
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Post by CD on Apr 3, 2013 12:17:42 GMT
Morgan a good 4 lead tool, but the Twinmax is more accurate. It compares two signals when they are the same it's balanced. As all carbs are done on pairs it doesn't matter if the bike had two, four or six.
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