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Post by darrylnugent on May 25, 2012 18:32:24 GMT
The usual Divi problem - clunky gearbox. When cold the gears change silentlyand smoothly but as it warms up (and presumably the oil thins) the changes are clunkier especially when changing up.
Has anyone putting in thicker oil to help sort the problem? I'm using Yamalube 10/40 semi synthetic.
Cheers
Darryl
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Post by pilgrim on May 25, 2012 20:13:09 GMT
I thought the engine gets smoother/quieter when the oil gets to parts where it had previously drained from. My clutch basket is noisier at start-up and quietly different when warmed up. Gear changes are always clunky around neutral I find but smooth otherwise. Do you fill oil up to the top and not just in the level window marks?  |
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Post by bobh on May 25, 2012 23:59:42 GMT
Technique is important, too. I've found it best to take your time - stroke the gear lever rather than stabbing at it, and just roll the throttle rather than banging it shut.
Also on up changes, just pull the clutch in to the bite point, not all the way.
Obviously you need to match the engine and road speeds reasonably accurately to get smooth down changes.
But even then, there are times when you do get a clunk.
I wouldn't go to a thicker oil - it would probably be OK with the temperatures we've been having recently, but when it's cooler the oil won't get to the top of the engine so quickly. Also, unless you do a lot of town work, the engine doesn't warm up as quickly, or even as much, as a water-cooled one, so the oil will stay thicker for longer.
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Post by cam7777 on May 26, 2012 8:08:20 GMT
Also, the position of the gear lever is critical, it should be adjusted to suit you.
Hope this helps too.
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Post by CD on May 26, 2012 9:12:07 GMT
I find the D9 is MUCH smoother shifting up without the clutch. Preload the gear lever, quickly close and open the throttle and the gear simple slots in. All its takes is just enough to unload the transmission. As Bob says the clutch can also be used but just a quick dip to just below the slipping point.
There is no synchromesh so slow shifts will clunck; the revs need to be matched.
For downshifts I pull the clutch lever momentarily before shutting the throttle, tap the gear down and straight back on throttle. This blips the revs so the gear shifts seamlessly with almost no driver effort.
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Post by darrylnugent on May 26, 2012 20:10:42 GMT
Thanks everyone. Lots of useful tips.
Pilgrim - I usually fill to halfway up the inspection window but may have been over generous recently, WIll this affect gearchanging?
cam7777 - I think the gear lever is idealfor me but I will have a fiddlera around to see if I can improve it.
bobh - You are probably right - the problem is with the rider rather than the bike. I've been used to riding old Brits which need the clutch pulled right in to separate the plates and a firm kick on the gear lever. I'll try stroking the gear lever and rolling the throttle as you suggest. If it works, I might try it on the other 'arf ................! At least it seems that the XJ is OK.
Thanks again everyone
Darryl
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Post by CD on Jun 5, 2012 18:21:51 GMT
Modern bikes have minimal flywheel so revs drop (and rise0 fast. Shift slowly and it will cluck.
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Post by showaddydadito on Jun 6, 2012 7:37:24 GMT
Modern bikes have minimal flywheel so revs drop (and rise0 fast. Shift slowly and it will cluck. It took me a little to get used to that - I was raised on big diesels with crash boxes a long time ago (in a galaxy far far away), and bikes with fewer cylinders and more flywheel. Even in modern cars I do have a tendency to wait for the gearbox rather than just ramming through the syncro. Changing on the Divvy generally needs to be all done in one quick convulsion, or else you miss the moment. |
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Post by pilgrim on Jun 8, 2012 19:06:03 GMT
Darryl, I fill up to the top mark and I think, because of the noisy nature of the 'air cooled' Divvy, most owners would agree. But then I'd do the same when changing the oil in my car.  No effect on gear changing, btw. You're talking of half a cupful of extra oil being flung around the engine. No more though!  ;D |
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Post by CD on Jun 19, 2012 16:32:39 GMT
Over filling it a great deal too much might cause the engine to throw oil out of the crank case breather pipe. But they often do that with normal oil levels. Seriously overfilling will cause the crankshaft to hit the oil surface and froth it up. That can lead to air in the system and not enough oil the bearings.
Over-filling a little will however give the clutch mechanism some much needed lube. It often runs dry enough to go rusty.
Shift up quickly. In fact not using the clutch can be better than clutching it. Gently preload the lever upwards with your boot and quickly close & open the throttle. Not a full shut-off just a blip. As the transmission unloads the gear will neatly snick in. However if you try to whack the lever up with your boot as you shut the throttle it will crash horribly.
Downshifts I find do need some clutch and a throttle blip to momentarily raise the revs. Pull the clutch fractionally before closing the throttle, revs blip, tap the lever down. Its all done in in a fraction of a second before the revs can fall back again.
Its all about revs matching so the gears engage with no crunching.
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