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Post by andymanhole780 on May 2, 2012 18:18:52 GMT
Not used her for 4 weeks and today i decided to go for a ride. dropped into 1st and off i went. tried to select 2nd and it would not move out of 1st.
managed to get it back to neutral. left engine running and went to garage ad forgot something. jumped back on and tried again. took a bit of force but it went into 2nd. carried up the long road and used gears up and down. all seamed fine. Engine got warm and was fine for rest of journey.
1st to 2nd has always clunked but this morning 2nd nearly never worked!
any ideas?
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Post by m40man on May 2, 2012 18:25:12 GMT
Is it due an oil change? If your chain isn't a bit on the tight side, that's all I can think of [ 1]. [1] Apart from ride it more frequently  . |
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Post by alan292 on May 2, 2012 18:28:01 GMT
is the bike stored outside.....something might be seizing up and the heat has freed it...  |
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Post by m40man on May 2, 2012 18:31:42 GMT
...... that's all I can think of.. I've thought of one more thing: You get this symptom if the gear lever is loose on its splines. ...... but to be honest, I'd go with clingy old oil & I'd treat her to some fresh  . |
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Post by andymanhole780 on May 2, 2012 18:52:20 GMT
Fresh oil last September. motul 10:40w. Stored in garage over night. usual clutch rattle. I'll check play on clutch cable. should it move straight away?.
chain not too tight. 1/4 sprocket tooth play . new rear tyre last September too and shop removed and replaced wheel.
now i did declog the Front sprocket come to mention it. i remember putting the gear leaver back on and i could not get it out of neutral. i took it off and refitted and worked but was tight. i best check that again too.
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Post by alan292 on May 2, 2012 19:01:32 GMT
Fresh oil last September. motul 10:40w. Stored in garage over night. usual clutch rattle. I'll check play on clutch cable. should it move straight away?. chain not too tight. 1/4 sprocket tooth play . new rear tyre last September too and shop removed and replaced wheel. now i did declog the Front sprocket come to mention it. i remember putting the gear leaver back on and i could not get it out of neutral. i took it off and refitted and worked but was tight. i best check that again too. declogged osunds like what i have just done to mine...i noticed when replacing the sprocket cover i had to ensure the plate went on all the way....it was a very snug fit between gear selector shaft and the seal....probably miles out but worth checking.. |
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Post by CD on May 2, 2012 20:23:01 GMT
If its not the clutch lever, take off the cable and check for play in the operating lever on the engine casing. The 600s dont splash much oil where its needed so it might be an issue with the clutch release mechanism or even the bearing.
BTW, what do you mean by "1/4 sprocket tooth play"?
The chain should have 20 to 30mm** slack when the rider is sitting on the bike. The chain will be very slack on the centre stand.
** Depends which books you read. I personally think 20mm of slack is a bit on the tight side. Others may think differently.
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Post by radar2312 on May 13, 2012 20:49:49 GMT
If u aint got it sorted, Id agree with CD. Those were pretty much my symptoms when my clutch release bearing gave up the ghost!!
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Post by pilgrim on May 15, 2012 20:11:24 GMT
If its not the clutch lever, take off the cable and check for play in the operating lever on the engine casing. The 600s dont splash much oil where its needed so it might be an issue with the clutch release mechanism or even the bearing. BTW, what do you mean by "1/4 sprocket tooth play"? The chain should have 20 to 30mm** slack when the rider is sitting on the bike. The chain will be very slack on the centre stand. ** Depends which books you read. I personally think 20mm of slack is a bit on the tight side. Others may think differently. I think the 1/4" play is when you pull a link outward from the rear sprocket, indicating wear in the chain and not chain adjustment. On chain slack more play is better than not enough. ;D |
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Post by amorti on May 15, 2012 23:38:14 GMT
My money's on these things in this order: - free movement of gear lever on pivot - this first as likely and easy to fix with some fresh grease.
- clutch cable adjustment and free operation of pivots at both ends - this next as likely and easy to fix with light oil / new cable.
- chain adjustment and condition - makes a difference, about 1" slack at the tightest point.
- cush drive (sprocket carrier) bearing and rubbers - these rubbers shrink, allowing the hub to move against the bearing's natural direction, and take the bearing out. Pack out the rubbers with inner tube or replace, replace bearing, shift nicely again.
- oil level and condition - can make a surprising difference on the divvy if the oil is low, bike also sounds less tappety with oil to the max line.
for me after that it starts getting more likely something complicated has broken - clutch thrust washer, bent gear selector forks, worn dogs, warped clutch plates friction and/or steel. |
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