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Post by barrowmatt on Jul 18, 2011 13:47:02 GMT
The next part of my disassembly is going to be the braking system. I just wanted to know if I should service them whilst on the bike (with fluid in) or just pull them off and can they then be done on the bench.
I've read the guides about greasing the cylinder whist attached to the bike but wondered if that was the ideal way or just a way that avoids having to change all the fluid.
I am completely draining and removing the brakes so have all options open, which way is best? Any tips of things to be careful of or tricky parts would be appreciated too. I do have the Haynes manual too.
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Post by amorti on Jul 18, 2011 14:15:14 GMT
Pump the pistons out as far as possible without losing any, while it's on the bike. The rest is probably easier on the bench.
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gacf
Harley Rider
Posts: 80
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Post by gacf on Jul 19, 2011 7:37:05 GMT
From my recent experiences you absolutely need to get them off the bike to give them a good looking over and change the fluid. I've only had my bike for a month and I previously did my front calipers on the bike. I re-did them yesterday off the bike (thorough clean and new seals) and with new fluid and sintered pads the front is noticeably sharper. Cosmetically your bike is a bit flat, when it comes to the things that stop you- assume the previous owner has treated the brakes like the rest of the bike. Front caliper is easy to get the pistons out... the rear can be a bit more tricky if the seals are in a bad way. Just be careful of the nipples!! *edit* here's my thread and another linked within that might be of some interest/help to you diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=600&thread=14919&page=1#158385 |
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Post by showaddydadito on Jul 19, 2011 8:31:33 GMT
If yours are owt like mine then you gotta take them off and fully dismantle.
Some of the pad retainers and nipples are best loosened before you take it off the bike, otherwise it's really hard to get a grip.
On the front brake the alloy corrodes under the little bronze shim things that the pad ends are supposed to slide over and pushes them against the ends of the pads. After this the pads dont move freely, and a lot of your brake pressure is just wasted effort. You need to take it all apart and get these thoroughly clean.
The corrosion also gets in the dust seal groove - you can clean it out nicely with a wire-brush wizzly thingy in a dremel if you've got one. Pound to a penny you'll need new dust seals, so why not go the whole hog and get a full set of seals in before you start. (if you haven't got a dremel then get one - theyre an essential tool for this sort of thing.) The dremel is also useful to polish the cruddy bit of the pistons with felt pad and polishing paste.
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Post by barrowmatt on Jul 19, 2011 10:12:12 GMT
Got them off, one thing I have noticed is that the left side of the bike is much worse than the right side. The tax disc is 2007 so it has been stood for some time and when I went to see the bike the right side was by a wall and the left exposed.
The right front caliper is in excellent condition (still nice and shiny), the left has a lot more corrosion and may need replacing. The back caliper looks like it should be ok.
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Post by showaddydadito on Jul 19, 2011 11:10:42 GMT
Got them off, one thing I have noticed is that the left side of the bike is much worse than the right side. The tax disc is 2007 so it has been stood for some time and when I went to see the bike the right side was by a wall and the left exposed. The right front caliper is in excellent condition (still nice and shiny), the left has a lot more corrosion and may need replacing. The back caliper looks like it should be ok. that old chestnut eh - parking it by a wall so you don't notice the crash damage . . . .  |
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