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Post by dxtans on May 5, 2009 12:00:31 GMT
Hi,
In order to save costs, I'm going to order new types over the web, and take them with the loose wheels to be fitted by the local bike shop.
However, bit concerned about taking the rear wheel off as it is a shaft.
Could someone , if possible post instructions on the sequence to remove the rear wheel.
thanks in advance
dxtans
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Post by teejayexc on May 5, 2009 17:49:59 GMT
Hi, In order to save costs, I'm going to order new types over the web, and take them with the loose wheels to be fitted by the local bike shop. However, bit concerned about taking the rear wheel off as it is a shaft. Could someone , if possible post instructions on the sequence to remove the rear wheel. thanks in advance dxtans How I do it; Bike on centrestand  . Numberplate off, rear fender ext off, rear brake caliper off (no need to disconnect brake hose, just let it hang), loosen rear bolt of brake torque arm, loosen front bolt in torque arm), axle nut off, pinch bolt on other end of axle loosened. Pull axle bolt out, when almost out the caliper holder will swing up out of the way, (watch for a spacer in this side too). When axle bolt is clear, hold the wheel and gently rock it to release it from the shaft gear. Pull wheel out and that's it. Hope I remembered that right As Mr Haynes says, installation is a reversal of removal procedure  Good luck, just take your time and you should be ok. |
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Post by CD on May 5, 2009 18:16:36 GMT
The rear fender has probably got totally rusted up fixing bolts. However, two lengths of scaffold plank can allow you to do the job without taking off the back fender. Put one behind the other on the floor and roll the bike onto the planks. Position the bike so the front wheel and stand are both on the front plank and pull the bike onto the stand. Now remove the rear plank and the wheel has enough space to drop to the side of the rear fender. The D900 is front heavy on the stand so the rear wheel is naturally airborne.  As an extra to TJ's method... (1) Take care with the rear disc and you might have to shuffle the wheel to an angle to get it out. (2) The spindle pinch bolt clamp can grip quite tight - carefully spread its ends with a large screwdriver. (3) When you put the wheel back on... Intially fit the wheel without fitting the brake or wheel spacer. Use the spindle simply to align the wheel on it's drive splines. Now, take the spindle out again and refit it with the brake and spacer. This is much easier than trying to hold a heavy wheel and all the gubbins while threading in the spindle. |
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Post by teejayexc on May 5, 2009 18:21:38 GMT
The rear fender has probably got totally rusted up fixing bolts. However, two lengths of scaffold plank can allow you to do the job without taking off the back fender. Put one behind the other on the floor and roll the bike onto the planks. Position the bike so the front wheel and stand are both on the front plank and pull the bike onto the stand. Now remove the rear plank and the wheel has enough space to drop to the side of the rear fender. The D900 is front heavy on the stand so the rear wheel is naturally airborne. As an extra to TJ's method... (1) Take care with the rear disc and you might have to shuffle the wheel to an angle to get it out. (2) The spindle pinch bolt clamp can grip quite tight - carefully spread its ends with a large screwdriver. (3) When you put the wheel back on... Intially fit the wheel without fitting the brake or wheel spacer. Use the spindle simply to align the wheel on it's drive splines. Now, take the spindle out again and refit it with the brake and spacer. This is much easier than trying to hold a heavy wheel and all the gubbins while threading in the spindle. More or less as I remembered then Re the rear fender bolts, they can seize but mine are in and out that often they don't get chance (and I replaced them with stainless allen bolts anyway  ). (3) Now why don't I do that (good tip). |
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Post by dxtans on May 6, 2009 6:05:17 GMT
OK, thanks for the tips.
I will try a dry run this week-end.
( expect another query on this thread during the week-end)
dxtans
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Post by eliminator on May 17, 2009 11:19:13 GMT
Had a quick look and removal of my fender nuts yesterday, I thought they would be rusted solid, but came undone easily. I just made sure that I put Loctite on them to stop any future rusting problems.
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Post by CD on May 17, 2009 12:30:42 GMT
The screws on my rear fender had totally rusted up (over-long threads) and grinding them melted the plastic - eventually ended up with stainless screws and large washers. I don't like their look on the fender, but at least they don't rust.
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