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Post by steveh on Feb 19, 2014 23:07:56 GMT
Thought I'd go out today as it was nice, however really annoyed as my divvy wouldn't start.
It's kept in the garage and turns over fine but won't fire up, presume it's plug related but anyone got any suggestions please?
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Post by bobh on Feb 19, 2014 23:24:43 GMT
It's quite unlikely that all four plugs would suddenly go awol together.
The easiest thing to check first is to take a plug out and see if you get a spark. If not, and the motor's not showing any signs of life, work back through the L.T. side of the ignition, preferably with a multimeter, to see if you have volts at the right places.
If you do get a spark, it's most likely fuel, or the electrical supply to the fuel pump - did it click when you first turned it on?
Also, when you spun the motor over with the plug out, you should have smelled petrol.
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Post by m40man on Feb 19, 2014 23:24:48 GMT
Almost regret asking this - but you checked the kill switch & have fuel in it?
If so, you will have to start looking for a wiring issue.
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Post by bobh on Feb 19, 2014 23:27:42 GMT
Almost regret asking this - but you checked the kill switch & have fuel in it? If so, you will have to start looking for a wiring issue. IIRC, the motor won't turn over if the switch is killed - I think you just get the oil level light. Ditto sidestand, but I may be entirely wrong. Both worth checking before going any further.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2014 5:52:42 GMT
When did you last have it running?
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Post by steveh on Feb 20, 2014 16:01:11 GMT
Running about 2 to 3 weeks ago
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Post by crickleymal on Feb 21, 2014 10:42:13 GMT
When you try to start it how long do you turn it over for? It may be that the fuel in the carbs has mysteriously evaporated and you need to put the fuel tap onto prime for a while. That's a complete guess though.
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Post by m40man on Feb 21, 2014 10:46:49 GMT
When you try to start it how long do you turn it over for? It may be that the fuel in the carbs has mysteriously evaporated and you need to put the fuel tap onto prime for a while. That's a complete guess though. The poor old D9 doesn't have this technological capability.
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Post by crickleymal on Feb 21, 2014 13:57:56 GMT
How primitive!
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Post by howard on Feb 22, 2014 13:03:19 GMT
Mine has also done this today after only one week standing. It was turning over fine but no signs of life. Flicking the kill switch on and off had no effect. Pushing the side stand switch plunger in and out a few times did - it then started fine. This doesn't make sense (coincidence?). Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that if there was a malfunction with the side stand switch circuit the starter motor wouldn't turn. Mind you, Haynes do say that the starter circuit cut off relay 'is quite complicated internally, containing diodes, resistors and switches, and performs many functions'. So it's Black Magic. I expect it to happen again.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2014 6:11:25 GMT
I had huge troubles with non starting on my TTR600, eventually I found it to be the sidestand switch, replaced it with a second hand one and now it starts fine
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Post by HRHpenfold on Feb 23, 2014 9:59:08 GMT
Mine has also done this today after only one week standing. It was turning over fine but no signs of life. Flicking the kill switch on and off had no effect. Pushing the side stand switch plunger in and out a few times did - it then started fine. This doesn't make sense (coincidence?). Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that if there was a malfunction with the side stand switch circuit the starter motor wouldn't turn. Mind you, Haynes do say that the starter circuit cut off relay 'is quite complicated internally, containing diodes, resistors and switches, and performs many functions'. So it's Black Magic. I expect it to happen again. The cut off relay is a simple relay, diodes are used to stop current flowing backwards into places it should not go, resistors are there to stop the relay switching constantly as other circuits kick in, For instance the kill switch will be connected to the sidestand circuit, without the diode, the kill switch would receive 12v on both sides, so would not work! The only complication is that the relays diodes and resistors are built into the unit, you could quite simply use a simple relay and add the resistors and diodes externally!
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Post by CD on Feb 23, 2014 21:19:31 GMT
The 900 does have a fuel tap - easy to forget of you've had the tank off.
Try jump leads from a car (engine NOT running). If the bike battery voltage drops too far under start load the sparks box wont light the fires.
I used a screwdriver as a prod with most of the bare metal taped over and a gap at the handle end for the jump lead clip. Press it down to the +ve battery terminal. Clip the -ve lead to any bare metal.
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Post by howard on Feb 24, 2014 16:25:31 GMT
Well in my case it looks like it's the battery. I went to the petrol station and had difficulty re-starting. As soon as I switched the lights off it went (I thought there would be a lights cut-off switch when pressing the start switch, but apparently not). When I got home I got the voltmeter out. The charging system is working well, but put the lights on with the engine switched off and the voltage drops like a stone. I tried again with the battery off the bike. A headlight bulb will reduce voltage from 12.7 to 9.6 in 30 seconds! This battery has the date scratched on it (2.1.2013) but was deeply discharged when I got the bike, so I guess one or two cells are damaged.
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Post by CD on Mar 3, 2014 20:58:34 GMT
Mine did the same when battery was goosed. In my case i'd left it parked for too long.
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Post by folderol on Mar 4, 2014 2:00:35 GMT
The 900 does have a fuel tap - easy to forget of you've had the tank off. Try jump leads from a car (engine NOT running). If the bike battery voltage drops too far under start load the sparks box wont light the fires. I used a screwdriver as a prod with most of the bare metal taped over and a gap at the handle end for the jump lead clip. Press it down to the +ve battery terminal. Clip the -ve lead to any bare metal. can you show pitures were to do it Errol
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Post by CD on Mar 15, 2014 11:25:53 GMT
Better to just fit a new battery but this got me out of a hole when I just had to use the bike... Get a screwdriver long enough to reach the positive terminal on the battery. Tape the bare metal leaving the tip clear and about 1" clear at the handle end. Clip negative jump lead to anywhere bare metal on bike and to car battery negative. Put screwdriver down to battery the tape will stop it shorting to the the frame. Clip positive jump lead to car battery and other end to bare section of screwdriver. Jump lead clip must be the well covered type. Press the screwdriver down onto bike battery +ve terminal and press the starter. It will almost certainly start but not much help if it stalls just up the road. Unclip negative to bike before disconnecting the other jump lead clips.
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