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Post by howard on Dec 2, 2013 9:13:40 GMT
I know there are several threads on removal of the AIS system, but I have another question about plugging the exhaust stubs. Do exhaust gases reach the stubs once they're plugged? Do the end caps need to be metal, i.e. would silicone end caps designed for automotive use just get holes burnt in them? Thanks, Howard.
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Post by howard on Dec 2, 2013 10:55:53 GMT
PS - I gave them a good blast with a heat gun and they showed no sign of melting or deformation. If it helps they have GReddy stamped on them and were bought on Ebay (China!).
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Post by m40man on Dec 2, 2013 11:31:08 GMT
If you can secure them so they don't come off, they should be OK I reckon. (I think we use metal caps because they can be secured on easily enough.)
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Post by howard on Dec 2, 2013 12:11:27 GMT
Thanks, I think I described them badly. These fit over the pipe, so they can be secured with jubilee clips.
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Post by howard on Dec 2, 2013 19:04:28 GMT
Ah, I think I'm going to use Stooby's copper pipe method from 2011. I didn't get it until I levered one of the little gaskets off the pipe but now I see. I'll use some exhaust sealant inside the copper pipe as well.
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Post by CD on Dec 2, 2013 20:36:22 GMT
Silicone can handle up to 250 degs C so silicone hoses would be fine. I had some alloy caps made but they are sealed with silicone. The port exist to draw air into the exhaust system so there is minimal if any pressure.
Drilled out dome nuts could also be stuck on with silicone. M10 would be just(?) big enough but M12 too bulky.
Filling the stubs with silicone might even work.
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Post by HRHpenfold on Dec 2, 2013 20:57:31 GMT
Yes use automotive silicon and not the exhaust paste!
I think Reaper made alloy caps, you just bunged in some silicon to stick them!
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Post by howard on Dec 3, 2013 8:27:12 GMT
OK, thanks for the info.
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Post by CD on Dec 10, 2013 13:27:23 GMT
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Post by howard on Dec 10, 2013 18:33:52 GMT
Thanks for the links. Those silicone caps are very similar to the ones I have used (your earlier post guided me back to my original idea). I stuck them on with automotive silicon as suggested above. I have just had the bike running for the first time since I got it. Sounds well: soon be ready for the MOT. Because it is a Cat C repair, I need to have the MOT done before I can insure it so it will have to go for the MOT in a van.
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Post by Pool Boy on Dec 10, 2013 22:21:08 GMT
Thanks for the links. Those silicone caps are very similar to the ones I have used (your earlier post guided me back to my original idea). I stuck them on with automotive silicon as suggested above. I have just had the bike running for the first time since I got it. Sounds well: soon be ready for the MOT. Because it is a Cat C repair, I need to have the MOT done before I can insure it so it will have to go for the MOT in a van. See if you can find an MOT centre that has their own van and get them to collect it ?
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Post by howard on Dec 11, 2013 10:51:33 GMT
Yes, there are a couple near here, it costs though! Fair enough really, they need to make a living.
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Post by moo on Jul 7, 2014 20:41:57 GMT
Just took all the gubbins off my bike! Theres a helluva lota pipework taken off! Much cleaner looking now.
Took the bike for a spin and seems there are no ill effects.. although i wonder if it runs slightly hotter..
Plugged mine with some 15mm Copper End Caps from B&Q pack of 2 for £1.95, slipped a bit of rubber hose over, then a smear of silicone and then the copper caps. Need to paint them though haha.. otherwise it looks like a right bodge!
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Post by CD on Aug 9, 2014 16:35:15 GMT
They AIS system draws air into the exhaust when it goes to negative pressure using reed valves to stop any blowback. Its about diluting the exhaust gas to meet EU regs. It does nothing to reduce the total emissions.
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