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Post by discobandit on Jul 11, 2013 9:42:35 GMT
Some time ago I replaced all the bearings, bolts and seals in the rear suspension and swing arm. A, because they were goosed and B, because I had the clunk on take off. After this maintenance the clunk was still there and I've lived with it. Now this morning crawling up the works driveway with a cold engine she had a coughing fit so I pulled the clutch in and blipped the throttle a couple of times and both times "Clunk". Riding home I listened as carefully as I could and I'm sure it's coming from the clutch area? It does it whether the engine is cold and warm. When the engine is stone cold, no choke and barely ticking over if I put it in gear the bike will chug forward until I give it some revs, apart from this the clutch is working fine. So! Anybody any ideas as to what may be the problem or where I should start looking? Many Thanks Gary
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Jul 11, 2013 16:56:58 GMT
Probably a can of coke or whatever your tipple is rolling around in your top box Neil
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Post by discobandit on Jul 11, 2013 19:02:21 GMT
Probably a can of coke or whatever your tipple is rolling around in your top box Neil If only it were that simple!!!!!!
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Post by gsteinert on Jul 11, 2013 19:47:03 GMT
I had a similar problem, convinced myself it was the clutch, until I happened to notice the adjustment on my chain was way off. The chain was flapping about like a flag, causing a rattle and a noticeable clunk when changing from the engine driving the wheel (accelerating, slack on the bottom of the chain) to the wheel driving the engine (decelerating using the engine, slack on the top of the chain).
Maybe worth a look before you start taking things apart?
Gary
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Post by m40man on Jul 11, 2013 20:03:32 GMT
Maybe worth a look before you start taking things apart? You'd be looking a long time - this is a 900 .
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jul 11, 2013 20:25:08 GMT
Possibly a failing universal joint!
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Post by gsteinert on Jul 11, 2013 20:25:53 GMT
Maybe worth a look before you start taking things apart? You'd be looking a long time - this is a 900 . Well then I'll go back to sitting in the corner Gary
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Post by sledgegreen on Jul 12, 2013 4:47:29 GMT
Does the 900 have a cush drive in the rear wheel?
If I remember correctly, my old 600 had some rubber blocks inside the rear wheel, whose function was to absorb the shock of take off from stand still. The drive sprocket is actually mounted onto a hub cover rather than direct to the wheel itself. On the back of the cover were a series of radial fins, which fit into slots in the rubber blocks. Other slots in the blocks fit over similar fins inside the hub. So, when you let the clutch out, the engine takes up slack in the chain, the hub cover rotates, the rubber compresses to absorb the shock and then the wheel starts to move.
As this is designed to absorb the shock of take off, a failure would presumably lead to a clonk on take off. I wonder whether your rubber has hardened or broken up?
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Post by HRHpenfold on Jul 12, 2013 11:06:56 GMT
Does the 900 have a cush drive in the rear wheel? If I remember correctly, my old 600 had some rubber blocks inside the rear wheel, whose function was to absorb the shock of take off from stand still. The drive sprocket is actually mounted onto a hub cover rather than direct to the wheel itself. On the back of the cover were a series of radial fins, which fit into slots in the rubber blocks. Other slots in the blocks fit over similar fins inside the hub. So, when you let the clutch out, the engine takes up slack in the chain, the hub cover rotates, the rubber compresses to absorb the shock and then the wheel starts to move. As this is designed to absorb the shock of take off, a failure would presumably lead to a clonk on take off. I wonder whether your rubber has hardened or broken up? it does have cush rubbers, unfortunately they are not available new, all you can do is use some cut up inner tube to take up any play!
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Post by discobandit on Jul 12, 2013 20:58:46 GMT
I've been doing a few tests, if you can call it that, and it's definitely clutch area related. Like I said before, with the clutch lever pulled in if I blip the throttle I get a clunk and also as I release the clutch lever to take up drive it happens. Could there be that much play in the clutch basket to cause it?
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Jul 12, 2013 23:39:06 GMT
Is your helmet to loose & knocking when you move Neil
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Post by kawasakiinit on Oct 24, 2013 22:30:58 GMT
i have a similar thing ,when i pull away in first gear there is a clunk kind of thing as if there is movement in the swing arm bearings but there isnt , i always put it in the clutch/universal joint area but never got round to it and it never changes/gets worse so live with it ..surely if the u j was failing it would click like a cv joint does on a car ??
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Post by bobh on Oct 26, 2013 20:10:33 GMT
..surely if the u j was failing it would click like a cv joint does on a car ?? I think that may be a red herring , as the D9 uses a conventional Hooke universal joint (a pair of yokes joined by a cross piece), as used on old-fashioned rear-wheel drive car propshafts, not a CV. And anyway, unless they're on the point of falling apart, car CV joints only clonk when the steering is near full lock, so the joint is driving round a large angle.
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Oct 27, 2013 3:10:59 GMT
car CV joints only clonk when the steering is near full lock, so the joint is driving round a large angel. I know living near Martin is to be in the presence of a biking god & I know he does tend to litter the roads with unwanted spares for the faithful but I aint seen him dump one of his followers & leave them to be negotiated by following vehicles Neil
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Post by bobh on Oct 27, 2013 19:55:51 GMT
I know living near Martin is to be in the presence of a biking god & I know he does tend to litter the roads with unwanted spares for the faithful but I aint seen him dump one of his followers & leave them to be negotiated by following vehicles Neil Depends what was in the joint. You never seen angels after a smoke? It's the holy sh!t, you know. But in this case I think it was just the Red Bull giving him wings. Or in my case this evening, a few glasses of excellent 2000 Tautavel Cotes du Roussillon Villages (needs drinking up before it goes off, you understand).
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Post by CD on Nov 12, 2013 10:24:08 GMT
The 900 has a rubber cush drive in the back wheel. The clutch is easy to examine - one hour to change the plates so have a look inside. As a wild card - also check the shock top mount, they can rust around there and the shock top mount might be worn. Unlikely to cause a clunk but it's easy enough to look. Also look for anything which might be loose - centre stand, exhaust, engine mounts, suspension linkage bolts.
The suspension rocker wotsit will clunk on power take-up when the needle rollers are worn and it can feel like transmission backlash. The one to the frame will wear most quickly, but they all wear because they dont move enough to properly spread the grease. For completeness, also check the wheel bearings.
Take the cast alloy rocker off the bike clean all bearings. Replace any with flatted rollers or grooved races/pins. If they seem ok pack with grease and put back on bike. If the noise stops for a while but returns after a few hundred miles you have worn rocker bearings.
The suspension linkage clunks on power take-up because the swing arm tries to push down but gets stopped by the rear shock. Any slack in the system = clunk.
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Post by deefer on Dec 11, 2013 21:40:53 GMT
I have the same issue, did you manage to find what the issue was?
Also CD>> is there any adjustment available on the universal joint to take up slack. I think I'm asking a stupid question but ill do it anyway!
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Post by neilmud Lord Protector on Dec 12, 2013 1:21:38 GMT
I have the same issue, did you manage to find what the issue was? Also CD>> is there any adjustment available on the universal joint to take up slack. I think I'm asking a stupid question but ill do it anyway! Here is your stupid answer Neil
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Post by CD on Dec 13, 2013 1:25:30 GMT
Its a U-J with sealed and staked needle bearings. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_jointWhen it fails you buy a new one. If there is any loose vertical movement in the back wheel you have a likely cause of the clunk. The clutch takes about an hour to change the plates so its easy enough to check for problems. Put the back wheel on a brick and you wont need to drop the sump oil. It is the back end clunking of course? Neil will explain it better than me.
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Post by moo on May 20, 2014 19:00:25 GMT
I also have this clunking problem on take-off.. The suspension linkage idea seemed to work in my head.. so i thought i'd replace the linkage with one off a newer bike.. as it get expensive otherwise. Had the same problem of the linkage to frame bolt being rusted solid into the bush inside. Solution? Lots of heat and a 1kg lump hammer sorted it easy enough. Wasnt bend out of shape though.. Condition of the linkages i took out.. And the one i replaced it with.. Its black because of the dirt.. Buuuut... Still clunks. I can feel it more in the left hand footpeg.. So either its the UJ or the swing arm bearings..
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Post by kawasakiinit on May 21, 2014 17:26:38 GMT
would it be worth drilling and tapping and screwing grease nipples in on all sets ?
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Post by CD on Jun 11, 2014 8:33:22 GMT
The rocker block centre pins are hardened and filled with the mounting bolt. It "could" be re engineered to fit grease nipples but not a simple job. It would be easier to scrap the lot and fit Igus polymer bushes. These are used in farm machinery so plenty tough enough. Check the swing arm bearings have not settled and in need of tightening. A (badly) worn clutch basket can get knotched enough to cause a clunk as plates drop in with a delay. Mine had new plates at 70K miles but basket wasn't badly worn. It's worth checking nothing has come loose. Final drive has two bevel boxes check for backlash.
Edit The suspension rocker centre bearings could be greased with a nipple between the bearings. Those each end could have nipples fitted but bearing outer race would need a hole for grease to go through. I doubt if that's possible without destroying the bearing.
Sent from a widget that can't spell.
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Post by kawasakiinit on Jun 11, 2014 9:53:39 GMT
one for future then me finks cheers .
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