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Post by satnav on Apr 26, 2015 12:16:41 GMT
Well when the bike was MOT'd the tester noted that the font brake line and the speedo cable had bee routed the wrong side of the front fork when the seals were done.
Which means the protective rubber cover is rubbing on the fork. Nothing serious yet, but needs sorting before it becomes so.
However, the only way to do this is to undo the union from the front calliper. Knowing how fragile bleed nipples can be I thought better of it as I need the bike to get to work this afternoon. Bikes without front brakes are not a good thing. No.
So I will leave it until later in the year when I want to put in new braded hoses (the existing rubber hoses are not at their best and the steel link pipe is just starting to corrode, so needs doing). I am toying with Fazer fronts (before anyone gets on their soap box), but to be honest I find no problem with the standard ones. Cue a tirade of posts about Fazer calliper superiority. We will have to see.
Mind whilst I was down there (said the actress to the bishop, I noticed this crack in the fairing.
It wasn't there when I bought the bike. Closer inspection has revealed a poorly done repair job. I mean Christ on a bike, why can't people do things properly. I fair boils my Gypsy's I can tell you.
You go to the trouble of taking the fairing off and repainting it so why not repair the damn thing to a good standard. Drill a hole at the end of the crack, grind away along the length of the crack both sides to form a Vee, re-enforce with alli mesh and epoxy it. FFS it's not difficult, not really any more time consuming and not expensive; there are kits out to do the job with.
So for the time being I have put a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading, hopefully.
So today I have contented myself with cleaning and tidying my tool box.
How sad.
But my tool box and me have been together a long time (since 1982), but I think it is starting to show now.
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Post by bluevinny on Apr 26, 2015 20:47:24 GMT
Installed a replacement speedo cable as the old one snapped at the front wheel earlier in the week. Unfortunately, the fairing had to come off to undo the speedo cable nut at the speedo head. While the fairing was off, degreased the frame normally obscured by the fairing and cleaned up the electrical connector terminals - indicators, carb temperature censor and dashboard connectors. Interestingly, on removing the knackered cable, I couldn't find the inner cable - must have slipped out onto a road surface somewhere! Hope not to receive speeding tickets as I used the engine sound and tacho to roughly guess my actual speed!
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Post by megah0 on Apr 26, 2015 21:53:42 GMT
Following an MOT fail I renewed the gaskets and installed new clamps on the exhausts, fitted a red rear reflector, fitted new front wheel bearings, replaced the rear brake pivot bush due to excessive play in the pedal, the bush was very worn. Cleaned and reassembled a slightly sticky throttle.
I also managed to bash the oil cooler hoses whilst taking off the headers and so ended up renewing the hoses and swapping the fractured fittings with some nice stainless jubilee clips.
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Post by kawasakiinit on Apr 27, 2015 16:24:26 GMT
Following an MOT fail I renewed the gaskets and installed new clamps on the exhausts, fitted a red rear reflector, fitted new front wheel bearings, replaced the rear brake pivot bush due to excessive play in the pedal, the bush was very worn. Cleaned and reassembled a slightly sticky throttle. I also managed to bash the oil cooler hoses whilst taking off the headers and so ended up renewing the hoses and swapping the fractured fittings with some nice stainless jubilee clips. pics please !!!!!!!
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Post by megah0 on Apr 27, 2015 20:19:25 GMT
Following an MOT fail I renewed the gaskets and installed new clamps on the exhausts, fitted a red rear reflector, fitted new front wheel bearings, replaced the rear brake pivot bush due to excessive play in the pedal, the bush was very worn. Cleaned and reassembled a slightly sticky throttle. I also managed to bash the oil cooler hoses whilst taking off the headers and so ended up renewing the hoses and swapping the fractured fittings with some nice stainless jubilee clips. pics please !!!!!!! Of anything in particular?
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Post by satnav on Apr 27, 2015 22:18:19 GMT
Of anything in particular? Rachel Riley modelling lingerie maybe?
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Post by kawasakiinit on Apr 28, 2015 9:08:38 GMT
Of anything in particular? Rachel Riley modelling lingerie maybe? now that is a great idea !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! pics of nice new shiny oil pipes etc i have a fettish lol
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Post by fx110 (LIM) on Apr 29, 2015 3:03:40 GMT
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Post by satnav on Apr 29, 2015 7:35:35 GMT
With diesel oil? It won't harm the engine necessarily but the extra detergents will effect the performance. Also diesel oil has poor anti sludge properties when cold. More worryingly is the viscosity recommended by Yamaha is 20/40w, not the 5/40w you have used. Good article on the differences here. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/
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Post by GAv on Apr 29, 2015 10:42:15 GMT
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Post by megah0 on Apr 29, 2015 14:00:11 GMT
old and new oil lines
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Post by kawasakiinit on Apr 29, 2015 16:48:13 GMT
ooh er missus ;-)
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Post by teejayexc on Apr 29, 2015 18:53:54 GMT
With diesel oil? It won't harm the engine necessarily but the extra detergents will effect the performance. Also diesel oil has poor anti sludge properties when cold. More worryingly is the viscosity recommended by Yamaha is 20/40w, not the 5/40w you have used. Good article on the differences here. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/Lim is in Malasia, probably a tad warmer there?
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Post by satnav on Apr 29, 2015 20:09:27 GMT
With diesel oil? It won't harm the engine necessarily but the extra detergents will effect the performance. Also diesel oil has poor anti sludge properties when cold. More worryingly is the viscosity recommended by Yamaha is 20/40w, not the 5/40w you have used. Good article on the differences here. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/Lim is in Malasia, probably a tad warmer there? But that's worse because a 5w oil is less viscous than 20w. The higher viscosity is to protect the engine on start up.
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Post by bobh on Apr 29, 2015 21:26:15 GMT
I beg to disagree. An oil with a lower low-temperature viscosity will get through to "the parts that other oils can't reach" more quickly.
When Mobil 1 first came out I went to a presentation by a Mobil technologist, who showed a film of the valve gear of an engine on cold start-up. The Mobil 1 (5W-50) got there much more quickly than the conventional (20W-50) multigrade oil.
You might expect that a more viscous oil would drain out of bearing clearances less readily than a thinner one, but I'm not convinced, and anyway it would depend on how often you run the engine. Of course, Castrol make a point of their Magnatec oils being able to cling to surfaces and thus minimise start-up wear.
Having said that, an oil with a 5W rating is formulated from a base oil with a low viscosity, bolstered by viscosity improvers (basically long-chain polymer-like molecules) that prevent it from thinning out too much at higher temperatures. These additives degrade with mileage as the long chains are chopped down into shorter ones. So the concern would be that at continuous higher operating temperatures the oil might, over time, become thinner and thus less effective. A full-synthetic is less reliant on such additives and therefore has a longer potential service life.
It's interesting that modern car engines, in the race to maximise economy, are designed to operate on oils that would have been considered way too thin (i.e. low viscosity) a couple of decades ago. This is only possible because modern machining techniques allow greater control over tolerances and clearances. So to be on the safe side it's probably wiser to run a 25-year-old engine design on an oil that errs on the viscous side. You also need to take into account the fact that the D9 engine is air-cooled, so will see wider temperature variations than a liquid-cooled one, plus the gearbox ideally would like something fairly gooey (technical term = more viscous). And the gearbox is probably the biggest chopper-upper of long chain molecule additives.
So - just stick with what you know works, and change it regularly.
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Post by satnav on Apr 30, 2015 0:50:50 GMT
So in the end you actually agree with me then.
For all the reasons you've given I will be sticking with 20/40, even though I can't seem to buy it off the shelf. Just had to order 4L's in.
I would only consider anything else is if I lived in Alaska.
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Post by fx110 (LIM) on Apr 30, 2015 3:15:57 GMT
With diesel oil? It won't harm the engine necessarily but the extra detergents will effect the performance. Also diesel oil has poor anti sludge properties when cold. More worryingly is the viscosity recommended by Yamaha is 20/40w, not the 5/40w you have used. Good article on the differences here. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/Good advise With diesel oil? It won't harm the engine necessarily but the extra detergents will effect the performance. Also diesel oil has poor anti sludge properties when cold. More worryingly is the viscosity recommended by Yamaha is 20/40w, not the 5/40w you have used. Good article on the differences here. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/Lim is in Malasia, probably a tad warmer there? My place temperature around 23 to 34 degree Celsius, lower temperature on highlands like Cameron Highlands & Genting Highlands, around 16 to 25 degree Celsius.
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Post by satnav on Apr 30, 2015 8:00:34 GMT
With diesel oil? It won't harm the engine necessarily but the extra detergents will effect the performance. Also diesel oil has poor anti sludge properties when cold. More worryingly is the viscosity recommended by Yamaha is 20/40w, not the 5/40w you have used. Good article on the differences here. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/Lim is in Malasia, probably a tad warmer there? Sort of explains the lack of any corrosion. No salt.
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Post by satnav on Apr 30, 2015 8:03:35 GMT
Lim is in Malasia, probably a tad warmer there? My place temperature around 23 to 34 degree Celsius, lower temperature on highlands like Cameron Highlands & Genting Highlands, around 16 to 25 degree Celsius. [/quote] Yes but oils with a low rating like the one you used are really for modern engines or cold areas. You actually would be better off using a 20/50w oil in your case.
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Post by fx110 (LIM) on Apr 30, 2015 9:32:50 GMT
Thanks in advance will take note in future.
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Post by satnav on Apr 30, 2015 15:13:20 GMT
Adjusted the clutch. I noticed some clutch slip at around 8k rpm when I gave it Laldy up the A19. First I feared it would be a clutch plate change, but then realised that the clutch didn't bite until the lever was almost at the end of its travel. So today adjusted it so it bites about 2\3 out. Lo and behold: no clutch slip at full chat anymore. But I suppose there's no accounting for the damage that may have been done due to it being poorly adjusted in the first place.
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Post by bluevinny on May 10, 2015 17:49:23 GMT
Put myself through the BikeSafe rider improvement assessment on the D9 with an experienced police motorcyclist. Theory in the classroom yesterday, today the practical ride. Got sort of nervous when the police motorcyclist filled my mirrors at speed! At the end of day, some areas of improvement needed.
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Post by kawasakiinit on May 10, 2015 19:51:05 GMT
i did mine years ago and got some good tips like if you see hay or straw in the middle of the road there is normally a tractor round the next few corners as it blows away quite quickly and its not often wrong. simple stuff like that which i never really give any thought to .
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Post by bluevinny on Jul 16, 2015 21:55:20 GMT
Recently put the old gal through the 100k mile threshold on a nice summer's evening.
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Post by GAv on Jul 16, 2015 22:24:52 GMT
Congratulations.
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Post by bluevinny on Jul 26, 2015 14:52:41 GMT
i did mine years ago and got some good tips like if you see hay or straw in the middle of the road there is normally a tractor round the next few corners as it blows away quite quickly and its not often wrong. simple stuff like that which i never really give any thought to . Yup tis the simple things which can be easily forgotten. Well worth going, helped arrest some of my bad ingrained habits.
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Post by teejayexc on Jul 26, 2015 15:35:45 GMT
Finally had room to move the D9 from #2 garage back into #1 garage. Had it running too....struck up after two presses of the button , not bad for a bike that's been standing since before christmas
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Post by bluevinny on Jul 26, 2015 19:57:09 GMT
Stripped the rear supsension to check the bearings for wear. All bearings still lubed with no wear, but the ones at the bottom of the dog bones were almost devoid of grease. This happened despite extending the rear hugger with a home-crafted extender to reduce water running down the dog bones. Their bearing collar needed a light rub down with emery cloth to remove baked on dirt. Repacked all the bearings, collars and bolt shafts with CV moly grease. The frame around the top of the rear shock gets a hammering from road grit, but on stripping the bike down, the paintwork looked good, with minimal rusting. Spray painting this area of the frame some 18 months ago with top coat aerosol, lacquer and Dinitrol has probably helped. The swing arm paintwork was in good nick, apart from the area under the rear hugger - may consider a powder coating solution when the suspension is next serviced.
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Post by chris900divvy on Jul 28, 2015 16:49:12 GMT
However, the only way to do this is to undo the union from the front calliper. Knowing how fragile bleed nipples can be I thought better of it as I need the bike to get to work this afternoon. Bikes without front brakes are not a good thing. No.
I don't think you'd need to undo the hose from the caliper, should be possible to just drop the fork out after taking the wheel off and bring it around the other side.
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Post by bluevinny on Jul 29, 2015 22:03:14 GMT
My local workshop replaced the tired Pilot Road 2s with Pilot 4s. Nice solid ride on the straight and into corners at last. Got almost 12k miles out of the Road 2s before wearing them down to their TWIs, but should have changed them some 1000 miles earlier as the rear of the bike felt unstable, like wanting to let go, especially on some corners in the dry - even more dodgy in the wet. Couldn't round off the squared off tyres, even on a twisty commute. Uneven tyre wear was present on the cornering strips: There was no play in the rear suspension shafts and bearings - the recent strip confirmed that. Considered the Avon Storm 3D XM, but was put off by some reviews of the poor wet weather grip. May have tried them if the price had been lower though .
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