Post by MrT on Apr 11, 2011 7:34:03 GMT
Good mornign all! My first post here.
I was the proud recipient of a 1995 Diversion 600 last Thursday from a friend who's upgraded to an SM-T (lucky perisher) and gave! me his Diversion for having spannered (and no doubt for the forseable future too) on his bikes and cars over the years. Anyway, on of our ongoing plights has been getting the power we wanted from the front brake. We'd ended up wuith braided hose, rebuilt caliper and master cylinder and sintered pads, and it was respectable, and plenty for his city commuting. But I'm commuting 25 miles on dual cariageway with dopey morning drivers so wanted a bit more reserve.
I have sucessfully fitted an R1 blue-spot caliper! Yes, the one that doesn't fit, and from my reseach nobody has yet fitted. Actually it was remarkably easy, and had I had all the machinery I'd liek to hand, would have taken no time at all.
It's simple enough (provided nobody scolds my methods) of spacing the disc outwards 2mm (with thick washers, I know...
) and removing ( 
yes it gets worse...) the same 2mm from the mating face of the caliper mounting points. I would use a Mill to do this next time, but for experimentation I bought a heavily scuffed caliper from the breakers for little hard-earned to try it out. I carefully filed down the caliper mounts, trial fitting to get the position central to the disc spacing, and once it all lined up the only remaining task is to file off the annoying casting marks on the wheel's spokes to give clearance to the rear of the caliper.
One other possibility due to manufacturing tolerances etc is to smoot down the inside face of the caliper (facing the spokes) to match the slight tapered angle of the spokes.
NOTE: I removed minimal material because I didn't want the disc spaced too far, but if the job were being done properly I'd have a floating disc (no doubt wavey if goign to the trouble) made with teh carrier spacing the disc out another mm (clearance from the spokes) and properly machine the caliper.
Finally, a set of sintered pads (the worn ones that came with the caliper, again shameful, but I'm experimenting remember...
) and a quick bleed (bubbles were out in 30s, I was amazed, that is a fantastic caliper!!!) and it was a test ride. Now the pads are bed down to the disc, I'm amazed at the stopping power! No need for twin discs, it's performing fantastically! And with the braided hose the stopping power is plenty!
Anyoen with questions etc let me know, and maybe we can get a few more single disc bikes safely stopping
PS: I'm sure the mod could be mirrored on the other side for twin setups, if anyone needs to out-brake an R6 or something daft...
All the best, and stay sticky side down
Tyler (MrT)
I was the proud recipient of a 1995 Diversion 600 last Thursday from a friend who's upgraded to an SM-T (lucky perisher) and gave! me his Diversion for having spannered (and no doubt for the forseable future too) on his bikes and cars over the years. Anyway, on of our ongoing plights has been getting the power we wanted from the front brake. We'd ended up wuith braided hose, rebuilt caliper and master cylinder and sintered pads, and it was respectable, and plenty for his city commuting. But I'm commuting 25 miles on dual cariageway with dopey morning drivers so wanted a bit more reserve.
I have sucessfully fitted an R1 blue-spot caliper! Yes, the one that doesn't fit, and from my reseach nobody has yet fitted. Actually it was remarkably easy, and had I had all the machinery I'd liek to hand, would have taken no time at all.
It's simple enough (provided nobody scolds my methods) of spacing the disc outwards 2mm (with thick washers, I know...
) and removing ( 
yes it gets worse...) the same 2mm from the mating face of the caliper mounting points. I would use a Mill to do this next time, but for experimentation I bought a heavily scuffed caliper from the breakers for little hard-earned to try it out. I carefully filed down the caliper mounts, trial fitting to get the position central to the disc spacing, and once it all lined up the only remaining task is to file off the annoying casting marks on the wheel's spokes to give clearance to the rear of the caliper.One other possibility due to manufacturing tolerances etc is to smoot down the inside face of the caliper (facing the spokes) to match the slight tapered angle of the spokes.
NOTE: I removed minimal material because I didn't want the disc spaced too far, but if the job were being done properly I'd have a floating disc (no doubt wavey if goign to the trouble) made with teh carrier spacing the disc out another mm (clearance from the spokes) and properly machine the caliper.
Finally, a set of sintered pads (the worn ones that came with the caliper, again shameful, but I'm experimenting remember...
) and a quick bleed (bubbles were out in 30s, I was amazed, that is a fantastic caliper!!!) and it was a test ride. Now the pads are bed down to the disc, I'm amazed at the stopping power! No need for twin discs, it's performing fantastically! And with the braided hose the stopping power is plenty!Anyoen with questions etc let me know, and maybe we can get a few more single disc bikes safely stopping
PS: I'm sure the mod could be mirrored on the other side for twin setups, if anyone needs to out-brake an R6 or something daft...
All the best, and stay sticky side down
Tyler (MrT)
), TT250R (custom link pipe and silencer, custom SM kit with Divvy wheels, big brake mod, winter fairing, BRILLIANT!), TDM850 mk1 (R1 calipers, Hagon shock, various 'engineering bodges').
. Mind you, I like to fettle & resurrect old bikes, get 'em road legal & running, enjoy them for a bit them look for the next one to play with. Apparently that makes me a bodger of the highest order. Bugram, I say 
