|
|
Post by mattias on Apr 22, 2010 22:18:02 GMT
I have brought 93 XJ 600. My 1st big bike and 1st big project. It has been standing for few months, rear tyre is perished. From what I have been told it only needs new rear tyre, rear disc and brake pads for MOT. It has some well hidden rust patches and some scratches on the tank, besides I dont like the colour (green). I am planing to strip it, clean it and give it full paint job(gunmetal black). But before I do so I want to make sure that it is worth it. There are broken, not working and worring bits I have discovered while cleaning the bike. I start with the small bits. CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO ENLARGEFusebox: What fuse am I missing?  Fueltap: The handle is broken, I have it I will to fix it or get a replacement one. Any idea in what positon is it at the moment?  Mysterious bit next to Reg/Rec: what is it?  
Engine: It has covered 56k miles from new (I have all MOT certificates). The engine rattles a lot when idling.
Exhaust: Left one blows, it gets better as the engine warms up VIDEOAny idea what wrong with it? |
|
|
|
Post by newell on Apr 23, 2010 8:36:14 GMT
" But before I do so I want to make sure that it is worth it. "
It rarely is. Projects like this, of an old budget bike are a labour of love. You have to want to do it because it's unlikely it will be financially viable.
I am rebuilding a 98 XJ600 too at the moment. I find it quite satisfying. But I know when it's done it will not be worth the cost of my refurb.
You look to be missing a 10 amp fuse, possibly the hazard lights.
Give them a try to see.
The petrol taps are usually broken when removing the tank. If you don't remove the handle then the handle and spindle snap off. IT's probably in the 'Run' position as there is no 'Off' on these vacuum taps, but difficult to see in your photo.
I think the engine sounds ok for a 56k motor with a blowing exhaust. Adjust the TPS and balance the carbs and it will improve things.
Good luck with it. Keep us posted.
Jim
|
|
|
|
Post by mattias on Apr 23, 2010 15:57:42 GMT
It is my 1st big (but restricted) bike. I want it too look qite decent. I have lots of free time to restore it  I think I wont get it powder coated (£120 to get the frame, swing arm and stands blasted and powder coated) Not sure how much cans I end up using for the body. Do you think £80-£100 for the material ( filler, papers, premier, paint and laquer) is about right ? Fuel has 3 positions ON - PRI - RES Its on PRI now, what does PRI stands for ? |
|
|
|
Post by cam7777 on Apr 23, 2010 16:44:34 GMT
Fuel has 3 positions ON - PRI - RES Its on PRI now, what does PRI stands for ? PRI stands for Prime. In the prime position, the tap is not subject to vacuum operation, never pull off the fuel pipe when the tap is in this position as the fuel will not stop, always disconnect the fuel pipe when in the on position. |
|
|
|
Post by newell on Apr 23, 2010 16:51:33 GMT
It stands for PRIME. Use it only if you have emptied the carbs of fuel.
As the tap is operated from a vacuum in the inlet manifold it will not pass fuel unless the engine is running. So if you have emptied the float chambers during repairs/maintenance you need to fill them using the PRIME position on the tap.
|
|
|
|
Post by mattias on Apr 23, 2010 19:19:18 GMT
Thanks.
im repairing the old one now.
I have seen some 2nd hand taps on ebay.
Are there any aftermarket taps that fit 93 XJ600?
|
|
|
|
Post by sledgegreen on Apr 23, 2010 20:58:10 GMT
Would a 93 Divvy have hazard lights? I don't think my 95 bike did.
However, I don't have any alternative suggestions as to what should be in that space.
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Apr 24, 2010 11:04:41 GMT
Dont bother with spray cans, you'll never get a good finish and they are not as low cost as you'd expect.
The powder coaters/stovers I use will paint the frame over a base stove enamel that's applied just for that job. Its like a super-dooper primer, but after shot blasting and the 200degC oven any remaining specks of rust have no chance.
I believe they use the shot blaster to etch the new stove enamel to take the paint. The same paint can be used on the non stoved parts so it all matches.
|
|
|
|
Post by sledgegreen on Apr 24, 2010 23:33:09 GMT
I had a look at the fuse box on my 95 bike this afternoon, and I think that fusebox slot is a spare. My fuse box doesn't have any terminals for a fuse to fit into in that slot, and the sticker on the lid only lists 4 fuses when there are 5 slots.
|
|
|
|
Post by mattias on Apr 26, 2010 2:01:50 GMT
I had a look at the fuse box on my 95 bike this afternoon, and I think that fusebox slot is a spare. My fuse box doesn't have any terminals for a fuse to fit into in that slot, and the sticker on the lid only lists 4 fuses when there are 5 slots. I have noticed that few days ago Thanks anyway. |
|
|
|
Post by mattias on May 9, 2010 13:55:20 GMT
UPDATE ON THE BIKE Its in parts now Only frame, wheels, engine, clocks, headlamp and front wire loom on the bike The mysterious bit next to Reg/Rec is a switch; last owner had a dummy alarm Next time round I will remove the engine and wheels and the rest. That wont be until next month. Weather is bad and I have to my exams. Education comes first  I found a buying guide to XJ600 on ebay, also posted it on the forum diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=11024...Oil on top of the engine, sign of a worn / high mileage engine, or as I discovered, aftermarket 4 into 1 exhaust systems, oil goes into the airbox and lacks out when the engine is not running, look for oil stains down the side of the gear selector!And guess what. I heve found oil in the airbox! When i first got the bike it had some oil spots next to gear selector. I gave it good clean and havent seen any oil there since. I was saying ealier one of my exhaust was blowing, perhaps the oil in the air filter could be the causing it to blow? Any of you have the same problem? What is causing the oil to go to the airbox ? |
|
|
|
Post by CD on May 10, 2010 13:26:46 GMT
Oil in the filter box is 100% nothing to do with the exhaust corroding - why would anyone think that?. That comment is wrong and I dont know why he's mixing the exhaust into the issue.
The Divvie 600 engine breather system is pretty marginal so in cold weather oily emulsion builds up in the pipes. Oil then gets pushed over into the airbox and eventually drips on the floor through the drain tube. A new breather pipe fixes the problem. Amorti used braided garden hose to great success. Its a common but easily fixed problem.
The cheapest exhaust repair option is to get the 2:1 collectors remade in stainless. The downpipes already are stainless.
To take the engine out lie the bike on it's side and undo the mounting bolts. Then lift the frame off the engine. Its much easier that trying to slide a heavy engine across the frame.
Another reason for emulsion in the breather is water ingress into the engine. The clutch actuating lever runs on needle rollers that dont last very well. The top seal fails allowing water to finish the bearings and get into the sump. As the bike is being restored, renewing the clutch bearings and seal and the thrust bearing makes good sense.
|
|
|
|
Post by divricharde on May 10, 2011 18:09:42 GMT
12 month old thread but I had to ask Mattias how he's got on?? I have a 1991 Divvy XJ600S in bits in my garage now and have run into a problem I'm hoping someone has encountered and solved before? Bike is down to frame, engine, swing arm and wheel. I'm in the process of attempting to remove the engine but am having trouble with the last long rear engine bolt that runs the width of the frame. I've removed the nut, supported the engine on a trolley jack, and lubed the bolt from both ends but it won't slide out? I've got it to rotate and tried hammering it out but it won't move a millimetre! There's nothing in the Haynes manual to say there are any special moves required (press X, press Y, jump up and down and bark like a dog - that sort of thing :  . Does anyone have any experience of having done this, what am I missing/doing wrong??? I was hoping to have dropped the engine out on Saturday and now it's Tuesday and I'm still stuck  |
|
|
|
Post by daniel3640 on May 10, 2011 19:18:43 GMT
12 month old thread but I had to ask Mattias how he's got on?? I have a 1991 Divvy XJ600S in bits in my garage now and have run into a problem I'm hoping someone has encountered and solved before? Bike is down to frame, engine, swing arm and wheel. I'm in the process of attempting to remove the engine but am having trouble with the last long rear engine bolt that runs the width of the frame. I've removed the nut, supported the engine on a trolley jack, and lubed the bolt from both ends but it won't slide out? I've got it to rotate and tried hammering it out but it won't move a millimetre! There's nothing in the Haynes manual to say there are any special moves required (press X, press Y, jump up and down and bark like a dog - that sort of thing : . Does anyone have any experience of having done this, what am I missing/doing wrong??? I was hoping to have dropped the engine out on Saturday and now it's Tuesday and I'm still stuck I recently removed mine from my 98 xj600 the bolt just chapped straight out with next to no effort. Are you sure the engine is properly supported? Even still it should come out with some force bigger hammers perhaps? I have heard of some people having to cut theirs out though. Get some wd40 or plusgas on it and let it soak for a few days and try again. |
|
qtws
Harley Rider
Posts: 93
|
Post by qtws on May 11, 2011 20:30:23 GMT
On mine, the RHS engine mount damper with a metal inner had seized/cold welded to the engine mounting bolt. It only takes a couple of hours and a single hacksaw blade to cut through the bolt at the RHS end of the "spacer" - just break a bit off when the end inch of blade gets blunt.
I've since tried pressing out the remainder of the bolt from the damper and it ain't going nowhere!
If its stuck, then cut the booger - no point in lumphammering paint off your frame.
|
|
|
|
Post by divricharde on May 12, 2011 6:48:02 GMT
That's for the input fellas! I've carried on and removed the rear end around the frame (i.e. rear suspension, rear wheel and swing arm) to get a better look at the back of the engine. That went smoothly enough with all the longer bolts sliding straight out of the swing arm, rear axle and suspension in under an hour! There looks like some sort of sleeve in the middle of the engine bolt, in the exposed bit between where the engine casing meets the frame (below). Could it be this that's stopping the bolt from sliding out?  |
|
|
|
Post by soggybiker on May 12, 2011 8:37:31 GMT
Can you get the other engine bolts back in and use them to support the lump while you work on that one. It may provide better support than using a jack and make it easier to free up.
|
|
|
|
Post by divricharde on May 12, 2011 12:58:08 GMT
I've re-attached the engine to the frame at the front and removed the trolley jack, but it hasn't made any peceivable difference as the engine was only rotated forward a half centimetre resting on the frame (with an old t-shirt in between).
Anyway, looking again at the sleeve and having rotated the bolt to see if the sleeve moved with the bolt, I have concluded that the sleeve is siezed/welded/whatever to the bolt and it IS that that is stopping the bolt from being retracted.
There is a small slit at each end of the sleeve (not visible in my photo) and I can see what appears to be the bolt underneath. I'm assuming these slits allowed water and whatever else in to the gap behind the sleeve and it is that which has welded it to the bolt.
I'm going to try to Dremel the sleeve off (wish me luck!) and see what nightmare lurks beneath.
Worst case, if it doesn't release the bolt straight away, I'll at least be able to lubricate the bolt from where the sleeve currently joins the engine block and try again with the hammer.
|
|
|
|
Post by soggybiker on May 12, 2011 14:35:26 GMT
Try tapping the sleeve with your hammer to try and free it from the bolt before cutting it off or play a little bit of heat across it.
|
|
|
|
Post by divricharde on May 20, 2011 8:24:27 GMT
UPDATE: Having empited an entire can of Plusgas all along the bolt from all angles, its now turning easily enough but still not coming out. I've noticed that when I hammer the thread end of the bolt it's opening up the frame and leaving a gap between the 2 spacers on the left hand side of my photo. I've sprayed lots more lubrication into it but with no success so far. I've now sourced a replacement bolt so will be less inclined to be 'gentle' with the hammer from now on. I'm going to try and use some ratchet tie downs to hold the frame closed and repeat with the hammer to try to break it free. Fingers crossed  |
|
|
|
Post by adbru on May 23, 2011 19:27:17 GMT
I also had this problem with my first divvy ('92).
Solution was to cut the bolt/sleeve and then used a bit of threaded bar (with a nut welded at one end) to replace the proper bolt.
Cant remember what we used to cut it out but it was a right pain the butt !
The sleeve does get corroded onto the bolt and is a bitch to try and get out :-(
hth
Adbru
|
|
|
|
Post by divricharde on May 25, 2011 6:42:08 GMT
Thanks adbru!
I came to the same unfortunate conclusion myself on Saturday and have begun the process of cutting it out.
Fortunately I have a replacement so it's just hard graft that's the only obsticle now!
|
|
|
|
Post by divricharde on May 30, 2011 6:58:24 GMT
Phew! Well the bolt is out and the engines now out too! But that was much harder than I'd imagined it would be... For anyone else who might experience the same issue as me in the future here's the troubled bolt, with collars and sleeve.  The blue arrows indicate where I had to hacksaw through the bolt and the red arrows indicate where the bolt is siezed solid to the collar on the left and the sleeve on the right. There's no way in a million years they were ever coming out (despite unloading 2 full cans of plusgas into them). For reference the collar on the right is the wrong way round, I only just noticed. Now to find a friendly (read inexpensive) Yamaha dealer to source some replacement parts. Anyone have any recommendations on who to try for mail order OEM parts??? Thanks |
|
|
|
Post by DahDit on May 30, 2011 9:03:24 GMT
 Well done that man! This thread's gonna get lost in the annals of history quite quickly sitting here in "General" - It might be worth generating a thread in Technical Info & Mods for the 600, so that your efforts and solution will be easier to find by others. Good show, what what.  |
|
qtws
Harley Rider
Posts: 93
|
Post by qtws on Aug 3, 2011 22:08:54 GMT
Wow! That's a lot worse than mine was. I only needed the RHS damper mount and a new bolt. £53 ish all in from Wemoto, see parts fiches elsewhere on this site for partnos.: fire them into the Wemoto OEM part finder search tool. LOTS of copperslip upon reassembly  Continue stripping and finding duff bits, just do the one large order - there will be more bits you need, most likely, IME. Fairing well nuts. Odd screws. Washers here and there. Cam chain tensioner gasket (86p). Etc. |
|
|
|
Post by boydt98 on Aug 22, 2011 12:10:32 GMT
I'm facing this same obstacle myself.
Just one question, how on earth did you get a hacksaw onto the bolt? I'm struggling with fitting anything in the area.
|
|
|
|
Post by CD on Aug 23, 2011 10:18:47 GMT
I'm guessing they are not high tensile so you could go stainless when its rebuilt. Use nyloc nuts and threadlock.
|
|
.
