anon
Harley Rider
Posts: 88 
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Post by anon on Feb 15, 2007 21:43:04 GMT
From: spooofer Sent: 25/01/2005 I bought a lovely 600 divvy last year and fell in love with it, easy to ride and maintain. The only thing was it rattled very badly on tick over (1100 rpm). Being an engineer I was not happy to accept this as the norm and promptly ripped the clutch out and renewed the thrust bearing which was worn out. Slight improvement but still rattly. Stripped even further into the clutch and replaced the driven plates, as reccomended by a friend in the trade. Changed the oil to silkolene, massive improvement in gear changing but still rattling. Out came the clutch, cage and all. BINGO!!!! on the back of the cage is the drive for the oil pump, a quick check of this showed a 5mm dowel pin that held the drive in place had worn out. This allowed 2 - 4 mm of play on the outside edge of the gear causing the rattle on tickover. After ordering new parts from yamaha I was amazed to find that even with a new drive and pin fitted there was still significant play ?. I sent them back with a letter pointing out the problem, no response from yamaha to date. So I have devised a cure that costs the price of a 5.5mm dowel pin. You could also cut the shaft of a 5.5mm engineering drill bit and make that fit. Using the 5.5mm dowel pin fit it in place of the worn 5mm dowel pin. If it is tight use a small swiss file carefully to open the slot until it fits. It must be a snug fit allowing very little or no movement. The tighter the better. If the original 5mm hole in the shaft on the bike doesnt fit the 5.5 dowel then use a grinder to lap one end of the pin to fit. Reassemble the clutch an hey presto NO RATTLE!!. I have ridden 14,000 miles on mine now and the rattle has not returned. Any motorcycle shop or competent engineer should be able to do this mod for you. Since putting the modification onto my own bike I have cured four other friends bikes. Good luck all Spooofer!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by robinper on Feb 24, 2009 20:34:01 GMT
where do you get a 5.5mm dowel pin
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Post by CD on Mar 16, 2009 16:49:14 GMT
An engineering fasteners supplier like Pugh & Sanders (google it) should be able to supply a suitable roll pin. Otherwise, as it says above, cut the end off a 5.5mm drill.
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Matt
CBT Hero
Posts: 32
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Post by Matt on Apr 13, 2009 11:31:23 GMT
Thanks for this, just removed my clutch to check for play and found at least 4mm of movement on the drive!  |
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Post by jorgexjs600 on Jun 23, 2009 11:57:07 GMT
HI !
Do you have any photos...?
A good job..for oldest divy problem....
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Post by Reaper on Jun 25, 2009 17:43:08 GMT
This is the pin on the reverse side of the clutch basket, it`s just left of centre.  |
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tone
Scooter Rider
Geordie Racer !
Posts: 69
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Post by tone on Jun 29, 2009 15:46:50 GMT
Will a roll pin be man enough for the job ?
Im doing soem tinkering to mine at the weekend and debating whetehr a roll pin will be strong enough or whether its worth using a piece cut from a 5.5mm punch.
Has anyone else tried this with a roll pin ?
Cheers
Tone
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Post by CD on Jul 28, 2009 10:38:35 GMT
I've not done this job, but a roll pin is probably the best option as it will spring fit into the shaft hole. The most important thing will be to have zero play with the new pin. Any rattle will quickly wear the holes and it will soon be back to square 1.
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Post by gwilkinson on Jul 30, 2009 20:11:03 GMT
Hi, i have done the clutch death thingy with the pin etc but i were still getting a shocking rattle (worse on idle but there at all speeds). Before doing the clutch thing the carbs were ballanced, and valve shims set. The rattle is coming from the starter motor area (heard with a screwdriver on the crank case). So with this rattle getting evermore irritating i took out the engine and split the crankcase.... after checking the starter chain and guides for wear, which are ok, i found the noise was coming from play in the starter clutch gear and starter idler sprocket. I have checked the play on the idler sprocket spindle and thats ok.. the only play i can find is between the two cogs themselves approx 1mm. The gear teeth look a little worn but at 31k i would'nt have thought this would have worn this quickly! Has anyone any ideas why or has anybody got a fix (other than visiting the yam dealer to be robbed in broad daylight!)  many thanks... man with engine in many tiny pieces but hey... no rattle now! ;D |
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Post by maczone on Jul 30, 2009 20:59:27 GMT
What length of 5.5mm dowel pin is required?
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Post by CD on Jul 31, 2009 10:08:55 GMT
Not got a clue, but I would buy a 25mm (that must be enough) and grind the end off if its too long.
Regarding gwilkinson's rattler in bits - could it be the cam chain tensioner?
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Post by cam7777 on Aug 13, 2009 18:39:18 GMT
Did this mod myself using a 5.5mm drill bit, re-assembled and still rattles, so its not that then  |
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Post by CD on Aug 14, 2009 8:53:22 GMT
Silly question but - if the original slot had worn larger than 5.5mm in any direction it would need drilling out for a bigger pin.
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Post by cam7777 on Oct 2, 2009 21:55:27 GMT
Silly question but - if the original slot had worn larger than 5.5mm in any direction it would need drilling out for a bigger pin. The hole was about 5.35mm so I had to turn the 5.5mm drill bit down on the lathe for a really tight fit with zero play, still rattled though. |
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Post by CD on Oct 22, 2009 9:17:19 GMT
Oh well one option crossed off the list :-|
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Post by dpr1974 on May 5, 2011 11:15:56 GMT
Just adding my bit to this topic, when i did this job the gaps were sligthly different so i had to use a drill bit, which i turned on a lathe. took a couple attempts to get the two sizes stop on but it did the job, no rattle : )
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