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Post by Stooby on Apr 10, 2013 13:01:53 GMT
Just stripped the thread of my sump plug out - and I was using a torque wrench! Anyway, just watched several "how to helicoil" videos on YouTube and it seems straightforward enough - are they suitable for a sump plug though? And if my measurements are correct it's a 13mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch? And thankfully I have the Fazer to use in the meantime.
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Post by christhedivvy on Apr 10, 2013 14:11:54 GMT
Lookin from an mechanical engineers view, helicoils are, in one word, crap. Either tap it out bigger or get a replacement sump.
you should have to remove the sump anyway to fit the h-coil without leaving swarf in the motor.
But that's just me :-)
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Post by max900 on Apr 10, 2013 14:14:00 GMT
are you sure youve stripped out the threads in the hole and not the plug itself i thought i had done exactly this a while ago and after spending a while removignt he sump so i could get it sorted i couldnt see anything wrong with threads so took it to yamaha dealer who put new plug in it and it was fine
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Post by soggybiker on Apr 10, 2013 14:18:52 GMT
Cost of a 2nd hand sump on ebay is about £10 and the gasket is about the same. I doubt you need to take the engine out to remove it.
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Post by Stooby on Apr 10, 2013 15:34:17 GMT
I hadn't really looked and didn't realise the sump came off - just assumed it was all part of the unit. So that seems to be the easy way to go - thanks! And yes it's definitely the thread out of the sump...
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Post by General Gman on Apr 10, 2013 20:30:24 GMT
I'd favour using a time-sert rather than a helicoil , TBH
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Post by CD on Apr 10, 2013 22:04:45 GMT
Helicoils will leak down between the coils. As its almost impossible to cut them square the sealing washer wont sit properly and Dowty seals put the rubber edge inside the helicoil so they also leak. G-Man's suggestion solves all that or a new sump.
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Post by Stooby on Apr 11, 2013 9:15:44 GMT
Well thanks all. Having trouble finding a sump at the moment - none on eBay to be had although I've emailed a couple of breakers who have 900's they're currently breaking. Just waiting on replies.
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Post by soggybiker on Apr 11, 2013 11:51:04 GMT
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Post by Stooby on Apr 11, 2013 13:05:02 GMT
Aha - a newly listed one amongst all the pre-diversion ones. Not quite £10, but it's still a shed load easier than mucking around trying to fit a helicoil or similar.
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Post by max900 on Apr 12, 2013 18:40:35 GMT
im not sure how different (actual fitment wise)the sumps are between the xj900 and the xj900s but based on the location of the sump plug all those on ebay are from the xj900 not the :-/S
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Post by Stooby on Apr 12, 2013 19:20:45 GMT
Apart from the one I bought yesterday ;D
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Post by max900 on Apr 13, 2013 8:37:18 GMT
Apart from the one I bought yesterday ;D oh thats why it wasnt showing in the listing ;D well done keep an eye on the bolts your removing theres a couple of short ones and some long ones, the short ones will go in the wrong holes
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Post by Stooby on Apr 16, 2013 16:42:51 GMT
Well I was just starting to despair trying to fix this plug. Got the bike on the new ramp and commenced plan B (plan A was the helicoil) and found the first problem - the exhaust studs and bolts are now one and rusted out completely. The only way the exhaust is coming off is by cutting the studs.
So plan C - take the side bar of the frame and get the sump out of the side, if possible. Got the bar off, then at least two off the bolts holding the sump on rounded off - Allen key type.
OK so maybe plan A then. Got the spare sump to have a look at how much material I had for cutting a new thread etc. Took the sump plug out and noticed it was at least twice as long as mine. Screwed mine into the spare sump and noticed it hardly engaged the thread. Screwed the new sump plug into the sump on the bike sump, it went in, engaged the undamaged thread (about 6mm left) and tightened up fine.
So does anyone want a spare sump :-)
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Post by CD on Apr 16, 2013 18:23:04 GMT
The exhaust header nuts will unscrew if you put a dab of arc weld on the nuts. Avoid the hex of course but it rapidly expands the nut. Always disconnect alternator battery and sparks box.
Mine had four that were solid. All unscrewed easily after some welding.
Replace the silly hex socket nuts with stainless dome nuts.
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Post by Stooby on Apr 16, 2013 19:18:06 GMT
Hmm - the problem was there was nothing to get hold of to unscrew them. Probably the only thing to do would be to weld nut onto each and hope to screw the entire stud out.
Or just sell when it comes to new exhaust time...it's a Nexxus stainless one so hopefully it'll outlast the rest of the bike!
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Post by CD on Apr 16, 2013 19:32:38 GMT
The nuts have a hex socket on the end and unscrew with an allen key bit on a socket extension. It's a silly idea that lets the weather into the threads.
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Post by soggybiker on Apr 16, 2013 21:04:29 GMT
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Post by max900 on Apr 17, 2013 4:13:49 GMT
glad you managed to sort it out sort of so do you think you had the wrong plug in there before or simply a case of the other plug with a slight variation in the thread managed to fit yours
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Post by Stooby on Apr 17, 2013 18:32:57 GMT
Attachments:
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Post by Stooby on Apr 17, 2013 18:40:45 GMT
I've been looking into this today and it appears to be one of those aftermarket magnetic sump plugs. It's easily 10mm shorter than the original. With a sealing washer on it meant there was only about 5mm engaging in the sump threads and probably why they stripped out so easily. Something I'll make sure isn't fitted to the Fazer when I come to service that in the next few weeks.
Soggy I don't think that would be big enough to go over the nuts as well, they look to be at least 14mm diameter.
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Post by soggybiker on Apr 17, 2013 18:55:35 GMT
Yup that size is 6mm-13mm however they go bigger. I have removed 3 broken studs cleanly with mine if the nut is siezed is it possible to wind the stud out with the nut? There is very little a good pair of molegrips and a fork tube wont move
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Post by m40man on Apr 17, 2013 19:36:02 GMT
I know you don't need to undo those exhaust studs now, but a word before you invest in one of those stud extractors: they aren't really meant to be used over nuts so I think you won't have enough clearance against the downpipe, as the extractors are quite wide externally. (I've tried my largest one, 12mm, held up against mine & it won't clear the downpipe.)
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Post by Stooby on Apr 17, 2013 20:17:15 GMT
That's what I'm thinking - another reason molegrips aren't much use, there's just not enough room for some of the nuts to get good access to them.
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Post by General Gman on Apr 18, 2013 7:25:37 GMT
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Post by HRHpenfold on Apr 18, 2013 10:42:49 GMT
heat up the studs with a blow torch, if it has the original nuts, then drive in a torq fitting, the studs are thread locked to quite a decent temp
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